how much stronger is a 9" to a 44
- Thread starter JaredMD
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I like your 9" idea for the TJ. They build EVERYTHING for a 9". The only bad thing is the pinion height.
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- Bountiful, land of rocks
jeeptjstud said:
The 9" has a LOW pinion compared to any other axle. That'll need to be addressed.
What are you going to do with the front axle? The rear is easy. I'd get the front worked out first and go from there (if you're still planning on running the 38" tires).
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http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=18355
This is a GOOD and CHEAPER option if you plan on keeping the front 30.....{oh, and step down to some 35" tires and buy some spare shafts for the D30.....}
This is a GOOD and CHEAPER option if you plan on keeping the front 30.....{oh, and step down to some 35" tires and buy some spare shafts for the D30.....}
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
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The pinion height can of course be remedied by shelling out of a snazzy high-pinion third member.
JP made a really light 9" that held up to 38's in that big Cherokee.
JP made a really light 9" that held up to 38's in that big Cherokee.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
38 inch tires are a little (a lot) much for a dana 30. Start looking for a front 60. For your TJ you'll need one from a Ford (some Dodges will work, but just look for a Ford). The most common source is one ton four wheel drive trucks. The used them from the 70s to today, so you've got options. Don't bother looking in junk yards, there aren't any. Plan to spend 1 grand or more on the front axle, plus if you want it close to the same width as your stock axles, you'll need to pay someone to narrow the housing, and the axle shaft(s). Then you'll prolly need to pay someone to gear it, lock it, and set it up for your TJ suspension. If you can do some of this stuff yourself you will save A LOT of money. If you can get the front done, the rear will be easy. Grab yourself a 60 from a 3/4 ton truck (these you can find in junk yards), open up the spindles (easiest way is to cut them off, have a machinist bore them out, and weld them back on), buy some 35 spline shafts, gear it, lock it, install it. What is your budget for this project? Unless you do most of the work yourself you do know you'll be into this several thousand dollars, right?
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
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That is a loaded question....
There are MANY different 9" axle out there. Even 8" and 10" that look like 9"
No seriously there are.
A stock EB 9" is about the same as a 44. Same diameter shafts, but the EB 9 is 28 spline, and the 44 is 30 spline. The 9 has a bigger/stronger r/p and the 3rd pinion bearing. If upgraded to 31 spline, it would be stronger overall than a 44. But a 9 can only be upgraded to 31 spline if it is a big bearing housing.
Most full size truck 9" are 31 spline from the factory....some old 60's era are 28 spline. There are also several car configurations as well and they can be any combo of big/small, 28/31 spline....Most are 5 on 5.5, some are 5 on 4.5, and there are a few odd balls out there too. I have even seen Currie 9" axles in old golf carts. (thats how they started)
And the Beef fact to a 9" goes up expolnetially with your wallet.
For example I run a 9" that is as strong/or stronger than a 60, but it has all aftermarket parts....Nodular dropin, 35 spline shafts, pinion support......And it is mild compared to what could be done....
As for HP 9" only the tru-hi 9 is even a consideration. The Currie hp 9 is a rev cut 8.8 r/p and is weaker than even a rev 44 in my opinion.
You need 60's both ends to be happy and durable with your tire choice....
There are MANY different 9" axle out there. Even 8" and 10" that look like 9"
No seriously there are.A stock EB 9" is about the same as a 44. Same diameter shafts, but the EB 9 is 28 spline, and the 44 is 30 spline. The 9 has a bigger/stronger r/p and the 3rd pinion bearing. If upgraded to 31 spline, it would be stronger overall than a 44. But a 9 can only be upgraded to 31 spline if it is a big bearing housing.
Most full size truck 9" are 31 spline from the factory....some old 60's era are 28 spline. There are also several car configurations as well and they can be any combo of big/small, 28/31 spline....Most are 5 on 5.5, some are 5 on 4.5, and there are a few odd balls out there too. I have even seen Currie 9" axles in old golf carts. (thats how they started)
And the Beef fact to a 9" goes up expolnetially with your wallet.
For example I run a 9" that is as strong/or stronger than a 60, but it has all aftermarket parts....Nodular dropin, 35 spline shafts, pinion support......And it is mild compared to what could be done....
As for HP 9" only the tru-hi 9 is even a consideration. The Currie hp 9 is a rev cut 8.8 r/p and is weaker than even a rev 44 in my opinion.
You need 60's both ends to be happy and durable with your tire choice....
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Ive been thinking about getting a ford 9" rear and a dana 44 from an early bronco, what do you think about this? Whats the average width of a dana 60 axle, if I decided to do that instead? I cant have it too wide cause its still got to go on the 7' wide trailer, I guess I could go 6"-8" wider on the axles.
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- Bountiful, land of rocks
jeeptjstud said:
Despite the shortcomings of the D30 (with 35" tires), the only thing I broke regularly was the same axle joint in the D44 (OK, I bent two housings--that's somewhat avoidable if you keep your speed down on dirt roads). There are CTM's and alloy axles, but they cost as much as a stock D60 (that is arguably stronger and still upgradeable from there where you're maxed out on the D44)...............You're running some BIG tires and to really wheel it, you'll bust axle parts quite regularly with anything less than a BEEFED D44 or a D60.
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
- Location
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An EB 44 has smaller axle ujoints than your 30. The EB 44 and the YJ/XJ share the same small 260 series axle joint. Your TJ should have a 297/760.
So with out up grading the shafts, your loosing joint strength....But a 44 is better tham your 30 in that it has real hubs, heavier knuckle, bigger r/p etc.
And all but 76-77 EB's are drum brake and require a swap to disk....
There is not a 44, 9", 60 or.... That you will find in a wrecking yard that will do what you want!! It just does not exist! All the 60's are going to be full truck width. (A few odd ball mopar cars, but not really relevant)
There is no getting around $$$ and labor to do what you want!!!! Depending on you skill it is possible to get CORE axles and have some one like RL narrow them. But you still need bracket kits for each end, they are almost $300 each end. Then there is the brake issue, disk swap, or replace all the old drum brake hardware in the core axle. I have seen many people try it many times and unless they are highly experienced with a great deal of tools and shop to use, they end up spending almost as much $$$$ in the long run as it would be just to order the axles in the first place. You can get a pair of axles in a crate that you can bolt in in a weekend with only a few tools and a basic knowledge.....Or you can spend $$ to get cores, round up parts, pay someone to modify them, install gears etc, and weld up all the brackets and install them. In the end $$$$ are about the same.
I really don't mean to sound like an a$$ but I have just seen it sooooooo many times. Just save the $$ and be patient, do it right.
I know sometimes we make things sound easy on this board, but you also have to consider some of us can do fab work at home that is out of reach of some shops. (like you nieghborhood garage) A lot of guys her are more than your average backyard mechanic. There is a LOT of experience on this board.
So with out up grading the shafts, your loosing joint strength....But a 44 is better tham your 30 in that it has real hubs, heavier knuckle, bigger r/p etc.
And all but 76-77 EB's are drum brake and require a swap to disk....
There is not a 44, 9", 60 or.... That you will find in a wrecking yard that will do what you want!! It just does not exist! All the 60's are going to be full truck width. (A few odd ball mopar cars, but not really relevant)
There is no getting around $$$ and labor to do what you want!!!! Depending on you skill it is possible to get CORE axles and have some one like RL narrow them. But you still need bracket kits for each end, they are almost $300 each end. Then there is the brake issue, disk swap, or replace all the old drum brake hardware in the core axle. I have seen many people try it many times and unless they are highly experienced with a great deal of tools and shop to use, they end up spending almost as much $$$$ in the long run as it would be just to order the axles in the first place. You can get a pair of axles in a crate that you can bolt in in a weekend with only a few tools and a basic knowledge.....Or you can spend $$ to get cores, round up parts, pay someone to modify them, install gears etc, and weld up all the brackets and install them. In the end $$$$ are about the same.
I really don't mean to sound like an a$$ but I have just seen it sooooooo many times. Just save the $$ and be patient, do it right.
I know sometimes we make things sound easy on this board, but you also have to consider some of us can do fab work at home that is out of reach of some shops. (like you nieghborhood garage) A lot of guys her are more than your average backyard mechanic. There is a LOT of experience on this board.