Kevin's (slow) Excursion mod/upgrade thread
- Thread starter Kevin B.
- Start date
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
I'm of the A or B persuasion.
Pretty sure I'd just do A.
But I have an aversion to drop brackets in general, on GP, and try to avoid them even if there may not be a good reason to avoid them. So C would not be on my list. For a panhard, I'd only consider it, if it's a heavy duty, welded on, double shear arrangement.
Except I guess a panhard and leafs is kind of weird... Run it without. See what happens. Then decide
.
- DAA
Pretty sure I'd just do A.
But I have an aversion to drop brackets in general, on GP, and try to avoid them even if there may not be a good reason to avoid them. So C would not be on my list. For a panhard, I'd only consider it, if it's a heavy duty, welded on, double shear arrangement.
Except I guess a panhard and leafs is kind of weird... Run it without. See what happens. Then decide
.- DAA
- Location
- West Jordan
Cut and sleeve as long as the welds are good is a great way to go. Adjustable bar would work too, but cost more.
Ford (and Jeep on every YJ ever built) and a few others i'm sure used track bars on leaf sprung rigs to eliminate bump-steer and add stability. As long as the bar is relatively parallel to the ground (and your drag link) there wasn't much interference. But, when you lift things and make the angles steeper, you'll notice the track bar will make the ride (more) crappy, and it'll eat bushings since it's always fighting the natural movement of the suspension. It will however keep the bumpsteer in check even when lifted.
I don't think I'd trust a truck that yuge on the highway without a track bar. Not saying it won't (likely) work OK, but in a panic maneuver it may leave you hurting.
And like Jake said, if you're not adding a drop pitman arm to your steering, the drop bracket for the track bar will make you dislike the truck.
Ford (and Jeep on every YJ ever built) and a few others i'm sure used track bars on leaf sprung rigs to eliminate bump-steer and add stability. As long as the bar is relatively parallel to the ground (and your drag link) there wasn't much interference. But, when you lift things and make the angles steeper, you'll notice the track bar will make the ride (more) crappy, and it'll eat bushings since it's always fighting the natural movement of the suspension. It will however keep the bumpsteer in check even when lifted.
I don't think I'd trust a truck that yuge on the highway without a track bar. Not saying it won't (likely) work OK, but in a panic maneuver it may leave you hurting.
And like Jake said, if you're not adding a drop pitman arm to your steering, the drop bracket for the track bar will make you dislike the truck.
- Location
- Stinkwater
Why would that be? Do the track bar and drag link need to be similar angles?
- Location
- Stinkwater
I think I'll cut and sleeve the stock bar and just run it. Lift springs aside, I need to not dump more money than I have to into what I hope is still a temporary setup.
It's only 1" solid rod, I'm sure my awesome 110 welder will handle it. Maybe a little heat with the propane torch first?
It's only 1" solid rod, I'm sure my awesome 110 welder will handle it. Maybe a little heat with the propane torch first?
I think I'll cut and sleeve the stock bar and just run it. Lift springs aside, I need to not dump more money than I have to into what I hope is still a temporary setup.
It's only 1" solid rod, I'm sure my awesome 110 welder will handle it. Maybe a little heat with the propane torch first?
It’s been a number of years but I remember having to hit them with a flapper pretty good to get them to slide into a 1” ID tube. But back then I only had a little Miller 135 and never had an issue. I did one on a friend’s truck And he ran heavy 42” swappers and it never broke so you should be fine.
- Location
- Stinkwater
Yeah, that's the drive it without a track bar option. Kinda jiggly.
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
Jiggly all around is good. Wobbly side to side is bad.
- DAA
- DAA
- Location
- Stinkwater
I am not recommending but my Bronco had a leaf sprung dana 60 with 37's and no track bar, I never had a wobble on that thing. That thing was heavy, but the 460 was nowhere near as heavy as the diesel.
I know a few other guys that did the same exact leaf spring d60 swap and had similar luck.
Nathan
fighting my own DW on that same axle now under an XJ...
I know a few other guys that did the same exact leaf spring d60 swap and had similar luck.
Nathan
fighting my own DW on that same axle now under an XJ...
- Location
- Stinkwater
I did mention it would be a slow build, right?
This will settle some, and larger tires will make it seem more proportionate.
edit - I guess it wasn't obvious, this is just the front springs. And they're not even bolted up, I'm still waiting on ubolts. I just didn't want it sitting on jackstands any longer than it had to.
This will settle some, and larger tires will make it seem more proportionate.
edit - I guess it wasn't obvious, this is just the front springs. And they're not even bolted up, I'm still waiting on ubolts. I just didn't want it sitting on jackstands any longer than it had to.
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- Location
- Stinkwater
As long as I have the bumper off, let's talk winch mount. (Sorry about the glare in the pic.)
So I'm thinking to start with the RuffStuff winch plate here: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TS-WM-UNI-LG.html 1/4" steel, already drilled and bent and such, should save me some work. It'll fit between the frame horns with a little room to spare. I intend to use the three vertical bolt holes in each of the frame horns that are currently being used by the factory recovery points, and then hack up the bumper and lower bit of the grill as necessary to be able to slip it on over the winch plate.
I'm thinking a stout piece of 2" square tube, with 1/4" steel tabs running back to the mounting holes, and then I'll weld the winch tray to that with gussets underneath. I'm undecided whether that's going to be enough for a ~15k winch, and thinking about using the facing holes on the horns as well. I'd love to hear thoughts.
So I'm thinking to start with the RuffStuff winch plate here: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TS-WM-UNI-LG.html 1/4" steel, already drilled and bent and such, should save me some work. It'll fit between the frame horns with a little room to spare. I intend to use the three vertical bolt holes in each of the frame horns that are currently being used by the factory recovery points, and then hack up the bumper and lower bit of the grill as necessary to be able to slip it on over the winch plate.
I'm thinking a stout piece of 2" square tube, with 1/4" steel tabs running back to the mounting holes, and then I'll weld the winch tray to that with gussets underneath. I'm undecided whether that's going to be enough for a ~15k winch, and thinking about using the facing holes on the horns as well. I'd love to hear thoughts.
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- Location
- Stinkwater
No dude, that's just the front springs. The rears are still in the garage. SLOW build I said.
No dude, that's just the front springs. The rears are still in the garage. SLOW build I said.
Ha ha. I follow what you were saying now. Thanks for the edit
johngottfredson
Threat Level Midnight
- Location
- Alpine
I say rock that cholo style.No dude, that's just the front springs. The rears are still in the garage. SLOW build I said.
- Location
- Stinkwater
- Location
- Never Far From Nowhere
Yes, but it has to be aimed really high so it serves no purpose. Probably need to primer the fenders too, just to complete the look.
johngottfredson
Threat Level Midnight
- Location
- Alpine
One light bar?? Bro, stay safe out there. Lights on top of lights.
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