KTM 300 Database

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
So I decided that my 2012 is a great bike and Im going to keep it and invest in a road bike instead of replacing it.
I'm going to pick up my newly rebuilt and revalved shock mon day. I got my stabilizer mounted finally. I'm super excited for firebirds next week.

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anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
If you ever find yourself in the position that you need to do a bottom end on a 300, don't replace the crank with a Hot Rods or OEM crank. Have it rebuilt with a Pro-X connecting rod by Cooksey Cranks. I have had Andrew rebuild all of the cranks for our mini's and have been extremely happy with his work. I sent Tyson's crank to him for a rebuild and when I got it back from him, it had a run out of .00005". Needless to say, I don't think you could get it much more true and balanced than that. The cost was $199 for the rod, labor and shipping back to me and for $100 more I bought the crank bearings from him and he removed and replaced the race on the left side of the crank. As a comparison, I could have bought a Hot Rods crank on my RMATV dealer account for around $165 and the bearings would have been about the same price.

I started the bike up tonight for its first heat cycle and it sounded good. I just took it out for a little ride for a second heat cycle and I have never felt a 300 with such little vibration. Even when you blip the throttle on the stand, there is very little vibration and resonance as the RPM's come down. I don't think Tyson is going to be getting this bike back from me........I may try and put a mechanics lean on it for a million dollars.:D
 

anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
On a KTMTalk I asked Andrew if he measured OEM cranks before he did them and if he had an average run out on them. This is what he had to say.
Yes I almost always measure the runout in the as rec'd condition.
The KTM 250/300's generally run about .001" to .0015" each side.
My experience is that if the owner says that it vibrates, then I will find at least one side that measures .002" to .003".
You can almost always lessen the vibration if that is the case.

I have to tell you though, that there have been a couple that I trued up to less than .0005" runout on both sides, and the owner reported back that it still vibrated too much.
Andrew

He also said this about the ability to get a good run out.
Yes 50 millionths is the cool way to say it, as I have heard in the inspection Dept at my day job.
But truing one that close is more of a testament as to how accurate the crank is manufactured than it is to the guy doing the rebuilding.
Think about this.... You can only true a crank that close if the crank axis to crank pin hole is the same distance on both sides. It would not be possible to true a Wiseco crank that close due to the mfg inconsistencies, as I have seen anyway.
 
D

Deleted member 12904

Guest
So I just installed the FMF gnarly pipe. What do I do with jetting if anything at all? Up down?
 
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D

Deleted member 12904

Guest
Also new issue I found after the test ride with the new pipe. I have a coolant leak from what looks like behind the power valve screw area. Any ideas? Just a gasket? Easy or crappy fix?

 

anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
So I just installed the FMF gnarly pipe. What do I do with jetting if anything at all? Up down?
Nothing.

Also new issue I found after the test ride with the new pipe. I have a coolant leak from what looks like behind the power valve screw area. Any ideas? Just a gasket? Easy or crappy fix?

Being wet down that low, I would suspect that It's an oil leak. You water pump is the low point for coolant and it is above the power valve adjuster.
 
D

Deleted member 12904

Guest
Nothing.


Being wet down that low, I would suspect that It's an oil leak. You water pump is the low point for coolant and it is above the power valve adjuster.

Bike feels really really good with the new pipe. I can really feel the low end difference.

I cleaned it up and ran it for a bit. Looks like it's coming from the outer case up by the water pump. I'm just going to drop it of at a shop in the morning before I head out of town for work. I've been doing this thing for a little bit now where I pay people to work on my junk and I just use it. It really improved the quality of my days off so I'll just stick with that I guess.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
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Got this little gem back today and nestled into its home. I took it for ride through the field by my house. It'd so smooth my forks feel like shit now. This is going to get even more expensive.

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Cascadia

Undecided
Location
Orem, Utah
Well that didn't last long. Listed my '13 300xc and it sold in 2 days. One day was Sunday though so it doesn't really count. I coulda got full asking but I gave the guy 50 off if he went to get money right then. So he did. That was the smoothest running motor I've ever ridden and I was tempted to pull it and put it in my '16. Thanks for your help getting it back up and running Paul.
 
D

Deleted member 12904

Guest
I got mine back Friday from fixing the leak. Took it out Sunday and the rear Master cylinder blew. it seems like its been in the shop as much as Ive been using it. Good thing I really love it.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
During the firebirds race I kept feeling a clunk in my suspension. It was happening when the suspension went to full droop, like in the air off a whoop. I found some play in the rear wheel and thought the wheel bearings were bad. When I took the rear wheel off they seems to be tight so I kept looking. With the wheel off I grabbed the swing arm and there was some play up and down. It looks like it is at the tabs on the frame where the linkage attaches. I pulled the linkage and the bearings are tight.

When the shock broke I rode it about 5 miles with the link age wedged in some way against the motor. I'm guessing that stretched the tabs on the frame.

Any thoughts on how to fix this?

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