The situations you have described on your rigs sounds like they work well, but they are full-hydro setups. They are not hydro-assist because you are not "assisting" anything, but rather doing the entire job via hydraulic pressure. In a hydro-assist setup, there is just a little extra push/pull from a ram attached to an already functioning conventional steering setup - hence the assist.
The picture above shows a Hydraulic Assist steering system on my 84 Crew Cab Chevy. The cylinder is only there to "Assist" the box. Just because it uses a double ended cylinder as the tierod does not mean if falls into the full Hydraulic steering category. The tires are still controlled mechanically.
The reason I said that a DE ram would make for a poor choice in a hydro-assist setup is because every DE steering ram I have ever seen is big. 2"+ diameter (usually at least 2.5".) To make a ram that size move, you need a lot of fluid volume at high pressures. They work on full-hydro setups because the ram is the only part of the system that requires fluid pressure. On a hydro-assist setup, you already have a steering box that has build in hydraulic assist (that's why it is called "power steering," which requires a great amount of fluid pressure and volume to function,) and also you are using the steering box itself to act as the steering valve. The design of a standard PS setup is such that they do not have the ability to move enough fluid at high enough pressures to work a ram that big. There are even volume issues on most hydro-assist setups with 1.5" rams, and they don't take half the fluid a DE ram needs.
Usually the single ended cylinders are actually too big. They just happen to be cheaper. If you do the math though, my cylinder actually takes about the same amount of fluid to work as one of the smaller cylinders. A 1.5" bore-5/8 rod single ended cylinder has a surface area of 1.460 sq. inches on the shaft side(the faster side), and 1.766 sq. inches on the non-shaft side(the power side). My 2.0 bore-1.25 rod shaft has a surface area of 1.914. Which is a little more then the power side. The 1.5 cylinder works ok with the stock pump. I hopped mine up with the pump mods to help with the more volume it needs with the larger surface area. Mine works great, 1 finger steering. Even my 3 year old can steer it. And this is with Hydroboost also.
Also, with the Double ended cylinder you dont have the difference in power and speed like a single ended cylinder. And with a full hydraulic you are not turning 2 to the left and 2.5 back to the right.
Also, the manuals may not specifically state that full-hydro is illegal, but good luck finding a safety inspector to sign it off.
Well, since I had my truck registered for 2 years with full hydraulic steering I dont think it will be a problem. I was also pulled over by a sheriff and a Highway Patrolman. Neither of them said a thing about the steering. They just cared about the no mud flaps.
What happens if your engine dies
You steer just like you would any other steering system. The "Correct" Orbitrol valve will let you steer even without the engine running. Its just harder like any other steering system.
or if a hydraulic line bursts???
What if a draglink end fails or a sector shaft breaks? The chances of those breaking are greater then a hydraulic line. As long as you use a quality hydraulic hose and keep it from rubbing on stuff you will never have a problem. If you see that its wearing somewhere, just replace it like you would if a draglink was wore out.
65mph on the freeway, you run out of gas, engine dies which means your power steering pump stops pumping. That means no pressure for your steering! Turn the steering wheel all you want but nothing is gonna happen other than you are now doing 65mph with no steering. Sound safe to you?
No, it doesnt sound safe, but it doesnt describe a Quality and Balanced hydraulic steering system that well. It describes a Fork lift Orbitrol valve and a single ended cylinder with poor quality hoses.
I sure don't want a rig with full-hydro on the street... The reason people say it has to have "mechanically connected linkage" is for these reasons. Engine dies or line bursts, at least you can still control the vehicle.
Who are these "People"? Who ever they are, they are misinformed about a Balanced and Quality Hydraulic steering system. They can turn when the motor dies. They take the same amount of turns left and right. The have road feel(The wheel will return to center when you are coming out of a turn.) You just dont take a steering system off of a forklift and expect it to be road worthy. Offroading you can do it however you want, but on road you need to know how to put a Hydraulic steering system together.
And the reason beadlocks generally aren't legal? Look for a DOT stamp on the wheel. If there is one, you're fine. If not, you're effed (if you get caught
)
Some beadlock wheels have the stamp (AEV) and some beadlocks work with your already legal existing wheels (Stauns, InnerAir...) so those would be fine. Most beadlocks don't have the stamp, so they aren't legal.
Beadlocks being Illegal fall in the same area as Full Hydraulic steering. I have not seen where it says that "Beadlock wheels are illegal", but everybody insists that they are. Again, was pulled over by a Sheriff and Highway Patrol and they didnt say anything about the Beadlock wheels.
I also drove my Full Hydraulic Steering truck with Unimogs down to Moab 5.5 hours each way. 75mph all the way no problem. Didnt kill a bus load of nuns or anything. Maybe a raccoon or rabbit though.
I'm not trying to be mean about any of this... so please don't take it as so.
But I do hope this helps.
Phew.
As long as you dont call me a Fat boy I am not mad.
