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Let's Talk Lawns

Unimog

Unimog

Eric
Location
Stansbury Park, UT
I have had the 48" plug one like this for many years. My only complaints are: 1-Mine has cheap inflatable tires that cracked after a few years so I had to fill them with slime. Looks like they have wised up or cheaped down and put plastic wheels on them. and 2- My afore-mentioned issue with hills and hydrostatic drive mower. By the time you stack a few rocks/blocks on it to make it dig down, it takes quite a bit of effort to pull. If I'm not very careful about how I use it, it can overheat the tranny on the mower.
 
nnnnnate

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
It looks like the blade style aerators can be had pretty cheaply. If Skylinerider was closer I might ask to take his for a test ride before I bought one but at $58 its cheap enough to not be a big deal.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
First mow of the year!
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Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
muleskinner said:
Looks great!

I'd be so pissed if I already had to mow my lawn:rofl:
Click to expand...

I didn't really need to mow it, but I sure am glad I did. It removed and mulched up all the dead and matted grass. My entire neighborhood probably thinks I'm crazy. My dogs were pretty freakin happy about it though.
 
RogueJeepr

RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
Quick hint;; just before winter on your last mow. Get it extra short, that way it dosent mat during the winter.

Mine is still short but alittle green near the edges right now.

Also during the winter I've been blowing all the snow from the driveway on to the grass. Helps it get as much water as it can.

Sent from my H1611 using Tapatalk
 
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nnnnnate

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
It doesn't matter if I cut my lawn short or not it always mats and its still really yellow. I need to pick up a new battery for my rider this spring, I had to jump it that last few times I mowed last season.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
RogueJeepr said:
Quick hint;; just before winter on your last mow. Get it extra short, that way it dosent mat during the winter.

Mine is still short but alittle green near the edges right now.

Also during the winter I've been blowing all the snow from the driveway on to the grass. Helps it get as much water as it can.

Sent from my H1611 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It doesn't matter, you will still have matted grass. Scalping your lawn (mowing it short) is also not good for it.

My last mow before winter was normal height. I had far less matting than the previous year, where I did scalp it. That year took several mowings and a couple rakings to get rid of all of the matted grass.

The Revive facebook and IG pages give some really great tips on lawn care throughout the year.
 
nnnnnate

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
I'm hoping to get some seed dropped tomorrow after work on an area that has mostly been weeds the last couple years. It started as grass then got killed by my dogs and was then turned into flower beds for while but quickly turned into weed beds. I turned the dirt a few weeks ago but didn't get some mulch tilled in before the two weeks of rain started which would have been awesome timing. I was out of town last week but got home early enough yesterday to drop mulch, till it, and rake it back out flat. I've got a couple bags of seed from a summer ago (athletic mix from Steve Regan, an awesome place to get seed in Murray) that I'll toss around tomorrow then top dress with a little more mulch. I hope I can keep it damp for the requisite time before the temps really go nuts. I'll add a few pics tomorrow and try and update as the seed takes and starts to grow to show how easy (and cheap) it is to grow lawn from seed.
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
No need to cover the seed. Just spread it, then turn a rake upside down, and drag it over the area you've spread the seed. Trust me on this one.
 
SLC97SR5

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
We've been in our new place for a year now and when we moved in the yard was absolutely hammered. Spurge, crabgrass, oxalsis and dandelions abounded.
I've been using the IFA 4 Step, straight 46-0-0 Urea and Revive. This year I tried out Fertilome Weed Free Zone.

BEFORE:



AFTER:





The Weed Free Zone is the real deal, all of the clumps of dandelions shriveled up within 3 days, it is petroleum based and smells terrible...so you know it's good:D It is very concentrated, it has a different mix ratio than usual liquids. It calls for 3oz of killer per 1,000 sgft. It is a general broadleaf killer so you need to be cautious around ground cover.
 
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SLC97SR5

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
A bit off topic, but does anyone have experience with Canadian Choke Cherry trees? I have an area in the backyard that we would like some privacy/coverage on and the CCC seems to fit the bill. I'm concerned with root spread and wind tolerance. My folks have 12-3 clump trees and they have been hardy but we get slightly more canyon/violent wind.
 
Tonkaman

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
SLC97SR5 said:
We've been in our new place for a year now and when we moved in the yard was absolutely hammered. Spurge, crabgrass, oxalsis and dandelions abounded.
I've been using the IFA 4 Step, straight 46-0-0 Urea and Revive. This year I tried out Fertilome Weed Free Zone.

BEFORE:



AFTER:





The Weed Free Zone is the real deal, all of the clumps of dandelions shriveled up within 3 days, it is petroleum based and smells terrible...so you know it's good:D It is very concentrated, it has a different mix ratio than usual liquids. It calls for 3oz of killer per 1,000 sgft. It is a general broadleaf killer so you need to be cautious around ground cover.
Click to expand...

Wow that's excellent progress!
 
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