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LT's Wild RamCharger

LT is new to the board, He just joined up. He is from my hometown of Los Alamos NM and we both wheel up here in Utah alot. He is a wild guy. He has been into wheeling along time. He has owned several built to the hilt CHevys, and a few Dodges. Right now he has a 87 Dodge Ramcharger which he calls his beater. The motor is a 360 bored over 0.3. He got real happy with the Sawsall and cut tons of the body off, including the roof, and front and fenders. He has a roll cage that is under fab right now. He now has a dana 60 going in for the front and a Corp 14 for the rear. He has Hydr. steering and a bunch of other stuff. He has new tires, 42 Irocs and beadlock rims.

I let him tell you about it. Here are his pictures:
 

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L

LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
And some more and one with my little helper.

LT.
 

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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
Some of you may be wondering, why is the front axle out of the truck? Well, because we found out by cycling the front suspension that we need to rotate the pinion up towards the T-cases. To do this we need to cut the outer "C" off of the axle and rotate the pinion up 10 degrees so that the front driveline will clear the lower link and will not snap off the first time I flex it out and stab the throttle. Has anyone else done this?

LT.
 
ChestonScout

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
Looks good man!

That is the only way to get your pinion angle up and keep your angles right on your knuckles for steering. You are on the right path for sure
 
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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
I took some more photos today but really there is nothing to tell. All day was spent not getting anywhere. The "C"s on the axle just will not come off or rotate. We had some 30 tons of pressure in a press trying to press them off and no go. Now my brother is thinking that the C's when welded onto the tubes are still attached even beyond the welds that we can see. Maybe the metal melted to each other during the heating process of the welding. Anyways, other than a few pictures of an axle sitting in a jig that he built out of some scrap metal and an axle housing in a press nothing really happened today. Anyone else have any ideas on how to get the C's turned? Anyone know of any shops that can do it?

LT.
 
broncomitch

broncomitch

dont be a sheep in a jeep
Location
west jordan,UT
could cut the axle tube and rotate it that way.

i dunno about those links being cut :ugh:


looks grate tho rob!

cant wait to see the beater in person!
 
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N8RB8R

N8RB8R

Well-Known Member
Location
Elk Ridge
LT. said:
I took some more photos today but really there is nothing to tell. All day was spent not getting anywhere. The "C"s on the axle just will not come off or rotate. We had some 30 tons of pressure in a press trying to press them off and no go. Now my brother is thinking that the C's when welded onto the tubes are still attached even beyond the welds that we can see. Maybe the metal melted to each other during the heating process of the welding. Anyways, other than a few pictures of an axle sitting in a jig that he built out of some scrap metal and an axle housing in a press nothing really happened today. Anyone else have any ideas on how to get the C's turned? Anyone know of any shops that can do it?

LT.
Click to expand...
Put some heat to the C's and they will turn, sure you cut all of the weld out. Killer rig can't wait to see finished.
 
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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
I have given up on the front axle. I have cut all the welds off, put a torch to the C's and have even tried to cool the axle tube and all while having about 30 to 40 tons of pressure on it. Nothing. It looks like I will be cutting the C's in order to get them off. Then I will end up buying new C's from either Crane High Clearance or Reid Racing. Not too sure what else to do. I am going to talk to a local machine shop and hope that they may have better answers for me.

Mitch- we had no other choice but, to cut and re weld the lower links. We did not have a bender large enough to just bend the lowers. Remember, they are 3/8" wall with a 1 1/2" I.D. We did try first though. We ended up bending the bender trying.

LT.
 
broncomitch

broncomitch

dont be a sheep in a jeep
Location
west jordan,UT
what you need is ole blue :greg: that will make those C's move! lol

mmm, well,not like my arm's are any better when i got them from Corey they where full of cracks. :eek:

just worried that if the beater is resting on one of those links it's going to put a crap load of stress in that bend/weld. do you have any room to burn in a brace? if ya cut a tube in half and weld it on top of the bend, that will make it allot stronger.

at least you got wheeling buddys that can jimmy something up if by some chance they do brake. :)
think im going to go to the EJS, if the beater is there,I WANT TO SEE IT!
 
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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
The arms I think will be just fine. The welds are good and the wall thickness is fairly substantial. I don't think I will have any problems but, if I do Cheston, Corey and Stan will have to be my saviors again. Today was a very expensive day again. I spend about $1,200.00 on new inner C's, knuckles, ARP studs, and nuts. All from Reid Racing. My experience from them was nothing short of top notch. I spoke to a fella named Jeff who was very sharp in knowing exactly what it was that I was trying to do. He had informed me that he was unsure how many folks were able to reuse the inner C's after being removed. It sounds like most folks ruin them trying to remove them. I guess I am right on track then.

LT.
 
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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
Another update. Yesterday the new inner C's and knuckles came in from Reid Racing. I took them up to the shop today and during this last week my brother got the floor back in the truck in the rear cargo area. The rear shock hoop supports are also in and the rear tender coils are now installed on the rear shocks. When I left my brother was working on the rear spacers on the axle. I will snap a few photos next time I go up. I did not think he was going to have the time to do anything to it. Sorry. :(

LT.
 
T

turbosniper1

6x6x6 / Commando
Location
(CLASSIFIED!!), CO
Atleast it is a step in the right direction...... right??? Sounds like you guys are going to be really getting it going soon!! I can't wait to see the pictures when you get back up there next time! It will look good with a floor in there again, but the real question is if you are putting new fenderwells in AND attaching them to the side body panels???? ;)
Keep up the good work brother!!
- Matt
 
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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
turbosniper1 said:
Atleast it is a step in the right direction...... right??? Sounds like you guys are going to be really getting it going soon!! I can't wait to see the pictures when you get back up there next time! It will look good with a floor in there again, but the real question is if you are putting new fenderwells in AND attaching them to the side body panels???? ;)
Keep up the good work brother!!
- Matt
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Yep. I think the wheel wells will be attached again. The rear dovetail is going to have to wait for a while longer. I just have too much going on now to get it done right. :( Oh well. I was wanting to have the rear dovetail done but, I am thinking that the wheel spacers will help me keep the rocks off of the body for a while longer. If not, oh well, no big deal. The body is ugly anyways.

LT.
 
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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
Here are a few pictures of the progress. The rear seat is back in, passanger seat is back in, wheel spacers are on, and some pictures of new inner C's and knuckles. Also some of the floor, new bracing for the shock hoops, and triple rate kits on the shocks.

LT.
 

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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
Last ones for today. The steering may still cause some problems with the front shock hoop. Also showing the rear wheel spacers and the distance between the rear tire and the shocks is now much improved.

LT.
 

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LT.

Well-Known Member
Location
Los Alamos, New Mexico
ChestonScout said:
you can try to blame us all you want. I guess if it makes Tiff happier go for it!:D
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Who cares what Tiff thinks? I have wheeled with y'all a few times and was always the one who was the weak link. You and your 47's and duces, Corey now with nearly the same set up and Sprueitt with THREE duces and his ultra traction enabled, plutonium green rig. What else was I to do?

LT.
 
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