Making a 2-stroke street legal in Utah

[sixstringsteve]

I've been getting a lot of questions lately about how I made my last bike street legal. I've done this for three bikes now (2 2T, and 1 4T). I thought I'd start a separate thread for it, so questions could be posted and answered here.

Last time I checked, you need the following to register your bike as street legal in Utah. This post is not the official DOT standard. Look it up if you want to know the laws. This post is meant to be educational only. To be street legal, you need:


- at least one mirror
- turn signals front and rear
- a headlight with high and low beams
- a tail light that is on when running, and brighter with a brake
- a horn
- a license plate light
- reflectors in the tail light so cars can see it when they approach you (even when it's off)


Misconceptions:

- you need DOT tires. (WRONG) This is not required on Utah motorcycles.
- 2 strokes can't be street legal (WRONG)
- as long as you have a headlight you're good (WRONG)
- your front light must work without the bike being on (WRONG). However, I believe your brake lights must work when you're braking, even if the motor is off.


Unknown:

- I've never read it anywhere, but the DMV told me that I needed a working odometer on my bike. I challenged them, but they insisted.


It costs a bit more to register your bike as a street legal bike. It actually changes the title to a street motorcycle instead of an OHV. Going off my shady memory, it cost around $60 to register my bike as an OHV. To register it as a street legal motorcycle was something like $125/year.


Here's the process once you have all the street legal gadgets on:

- go get a safety inspection from the same guys that do your car safety inspection. They'll check horn, lights, signals, working brake light, etc. You'll need your registration/title papers to do this.
- take your passed safety inspection to the DMV and tell them you'd like to register your bike as a street motorcycl
- pay the fees, get your plate. Go ride and have fun.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Here's some info about how I modified it to be street legal:

Headlight:
On a 2-stroke (and many 4-strokes), headlights do not run off of battery power. Headlights (and some tail lights) run off a stator, which is a coil in your engine that generates electricity as the motor spins. Some bikes come with a stator from the factory (any bike with a headlight), and some need to have a stator installed. It's very simple to install a stator. I got mine from Steahley offroad.

I'm no electrician, but I believe a stator creates more power when the engine is running faster. To prevent your headlight from getting spikes of too much power, you will also need to install a voltage regulator ($5-10) to bleed any extra power to the frame. I also got this from Steahley (where I got my stator).

The headlight I bought was a Polisport (found here) purchased from Anarchy Motorsports (Caleb's company, an RME vendor). You can use any headlight you want as long as the voltage matches your stator and it has the high beams. If you try to run a headlight that's more powerful than your stator can pump out, it won't be bright.

You will also need to wire a switch for the headlight to turn between high and low beam. I bought a kit for the rest of my stuff, and it included this Tusk switch (from Anarchy Motorsports). See post #3 to learn more about the kit I bought.

This can all be done without adding a battery to your bike.

 

[sixstringsteve]

The rest of the accessories to make it street legal

I bought this kit from Caleb at Anarchy Motorsports (PM Caleb for info).



There are a few variations of this kit, but this is the cheapest one I've found. I like the idea of the one with turn signals built in to the hand-guards. That leaves a lot less to get smashed and broken off on the trail. I ended up buying 2 more of these to run on the front. They're a lot less prone to trail damage. I think the handguard signals are probably the best way to go, but these are a great alternative.



This kit will give you everything else you need to make your bike street legal.


A few notes about this kit.

1) this entire kit needs to run off a battery. It's about the size of 4 AA batteries.

2) I'm too dumb to figure out how to wire a charging system fromt he stator, so I bought a charger to charge the battery pack. This means you have to plug the battery pack in overnight to charge it, your bike will not charge it.

3) Since the kit uses all LEDs for the tail light, brake light, signals, and license plate light, the system draws VERY little power. I rode my bike every weekend for 1-2 months on a single charge. At that time I decided to charge it just because I felt like it. I have no clue how long it'll actually last. As long as you don't leave your tail light on overnight when you're not driving, you'll be amazed at how long it'll last on a single charge. You definitely won't need to charge it nightly, and I'd be surprised if someone had to charge it weekly.

4) The mirror is kinda hard to use, but the law doesn't say it needs to be the best mirror on the planet, it just has to be there. I found it worked best when I mounted it hanging below the handlebar.

5) This kit requires you to run wires along the frame, connecting switches and lights, etc. You'll have to remove your tank and possibly a few plastics to make it a clean route.

 

[sixstringsteve]

The main idea behind having a street-legal bike for me is to be able to have access to trails that are only available to street registered vehicles. It's also really nice to be able to ride short stretches of road that connect trails without worrying about being pulled over by johnny law.

Here's my review of the Tusk kit:

Pros
- Cost - half the price of the baja designs kit, yet every bit as functional. Even cheaper when you buy it from Anarchy Motorsports
- low power draw due to LEDs. Battery life is amazing.
- it comes with everything except the headlight
- Easy to install. Instructions were actually decent.
- pretty low-profile. You can still run decent trails with it and you don't have to worry about stuff snagging on rocks (except the front blinkers).
- pretty lightweight. You don't add much weight at all to your system.
- the rear brake light/license plate holder is awesome. It tucks up underneath your rear fender. I didn't even realize it was there.


Cons
- it's an add-on. It doesn't look factory. If you don't take your time, your bike will look like a RMATVMC catalog barfed on it
- the front stalk blinkers break off easily and I had to drill my headlight bezel for them to fit. I wasn't impressed with this piece
- some of the adhesive is a bit weak and doesn't hold up to the abuse of off-road riding. I had to re-adhere a couple of my tail lights.
- need to buy a separate charger for the battery
- need to mount a battery pack somewhere you can access it to re-charge it (not a flaw of this kit in particular, just something to note)


Hope that helps.

 

[jentzschman]

I cant verify it 100% but it appears a yz250 has a stator but does not generate enough power to light a headlight... It seems that they need a new, re-wrapped stator for this to work. I have been trying to find some solid info on this. This is what I have found consistently over on Thumper talk as a solution: http://www.steahlyoffroad.com/light...oils/yamaha-yz-250-99-09-lighting-stator.html

If that is the case, I wonder if I can then wire this to a small battery pack like the Tusk one or this one I found: http://www.motydesign.com/product.php?batteries=4-cell-battery thereby offering more juice on tap?


If a new stator is not needed, I wonder if I can still wire in a battery pack that will be charged by the stock stator...

 

[sixstringsteve]

Good questions Trevor. The way I understand it is that batteries don't boost your power for a headlight. I believe batteries are for signals, starting, tail lights, etc. There are some kits that take your existing stator, add a few wraps of coil to it, and it boosts the output. It sounded tricky to me. Some companies will allow you to send it in to them and they'll add on to it. Other companies will just sell you a new one.

Regarding adding a charging system to the bike, I'm not sure. It's gotta be possible, lots of enduro street legal bikes from the factory charge their battery. I don't know how to do it, sorry. It wasn't enough of a pain to recharge mine every couple months, so I never bothered with it.

 

[jentzschman]

I think I may have found how it can be done, adding one of these to the circuit: http://trailtech.net/regulator_rectifier.html
I found this as well and it seems to be on track with what I am thinking: http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-71.pdf

Also this one: http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-116.pdf

EDIT: I started a thread on Thumper Talk to expand the research results. This is the thread with a few responses so far:
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1013307-steahly-stator-battery-pack/

Seems that the seathly stator would only charge at 4k rpm's and above, so the batt pack would not necessarily get a good charge all the time. I thought I remember reading something about a stator re-wrap that could significantly increase the output, but I can not remember where I read about it.

 

[jentzschman]

Could you add just the headlight first then the other components later?

 

[sixstringsteve]

You'll need a stator, a voltage regulator, and a switch to run a headlight. The battery pack/turn signals have nothing to do with the headlight, they're an entirely separate circuit. So yes, you can just do a headlight now, and add the rest later.

 

[jentzschman]

Is the voltage regulator the same as the rectifier?

 

[B2-Bomber]

having been motorcycle, and automobile safety certified for years

Misconceptions:

- you need DOT tires. (WRONG) This is not required on Utah motorcycles
.

lets clarify here steve

a.
REJECT when:

1) A tire has been re-grooved, re-cut, or is marked for other
than highway use.

most (if not all) NON-DOT tires carry the underlined marking

seen here: http://publicsafety.utah.gov/safetyinspections/docs/2011-2012 SI Motorcycle Manual.pdf

A. HEADLAMPS

1. Check for proper headlamp equipment and proper functioning.

a.
REJECT when:

1) Headlamp is not marked USDOT approved (unless vintage

motorcycle prior to USDOT markings).

2) Headlamp minimum height is less than 22 inches or more

than 54 inches to the center of the low beam.

3) The high beam indicator fails to function when equipped.

4) Headlamp fails to light or headlamp switch fails to function.

5) Headlamp coverings are placed on or in front of a

headlamp.

6) Headlamp is tinted, colored, or painted.

that's not to say that most inspectors even know all of the rules pertaining to motorcycles, despite being certified, or even still most let a lot slide

 

[sixstringsteve]

having been motorcycle, and automobile safety certified for years

lets clarify here steve

REJECT when:
1) A tire has been re-grooved, re-cut, or is marked for other
than highway use.

most (if not all) NON-DOT tires carry the underlined marking

It sounds to me like it does not have to be DOT approved. It just can't be stamped "not for highway use"?

3) The high beam indicator fails to function when equipped.

Does this mean you do not need a high beam?

 

[sixstringsteve]

Is the voltage regulator the same as the rectifier?

I believe so.

 

[Caleb]

It sounds to me like it does not have to be DOT approved. It just can't be stamped "not for highway use"?

That's partially correct, and infact it's a very grey area. You also have to meet the restrictions in UCA 41-6a- 1636, which for the most part would be the tread depth of 2/32 (and the tires won't damage the road, which shouldn't be problem). However, right on the Utah public safety site it says they have to be approved for highway use. http://www.rules.utah.gov/publicat/code/r714/r714-161.htm#E16 Although, I've rarely heard of anyone being rejected for using non-DOT tires (I'm sure it's happened though).

Also, on your odometer challenge. It's not specific to motorcycles, but ANY vehicle registered in Utah has to have a working odometer (and I believe, but haven't found anything to confirm this) it's supposed to be a non-resetable odometer. (again, this is on the Utah Public Safety site I linked to above)

 

[B2-Bomber]

no, there are 2 types of regulators
AC regulators, which regulate current to 14.5v max or so while retaining the alternating current that the lighting stator puts out
Rectifier/regulators use a series of 3 internal diodes that rectify the current to DC, then regulate it to 14.5v max

turn signals need dc current in order to blink, but many not-street legal bikes didn't need dc power so they only use ac regulator to run a headlight/taillight (i.e. yamaha WR-F models, Honda XR400's etc)

other bikes have a 2 sided regulator that uses the more powerful ac power for the headlight, and also have a rectifier to provide dc power to charge a battery (i.e. most 2000-newer KTMS, Honda CRF-X models etc)

 

[B2-Bomber]

It sounds to me like it does not have to be DOT approved. It just can't be stamped "not for highway use"?

precisely, a tire that isn't DOT, but doesn't have that stamping is a pretty rare-bird though, i just wanted to clarify that not all tires are acceptable

Does this mean you do not need a high beam?

no it means that bikes that from the factory had a high-beam indicator (little blue light visible to rider) must have a functioning high beam indicator

it's a very grey area.

what?? are you serious? as far as i can tell, (and as far as i was taught in the class put on by the highway patrol that i sat through and then passed a test after)it is quite literally in "black and white" any tire marked "not for highway use" is rejected

 

[jeeper]

This may be a little easier..
Step 1. Find friend that does inspections.
Step 2. Get inspection certificate.
Step 3. Get license Plate
Step 4. If ever pulled over, have great story about how you took the lights/blinkers off for the trail ride to not break them, and that you will put them on when at home again.
Step 5. Repeat yearly.

 

[ricsrx]

precisely, a tire that isn't DOT, but doesn't have that stamping is a pretty rare-bird though, i just wanted to clarify that not all tires are acceptable


what?? are you serious? as far as i can tell, (and as far as i was taught in the class put on by the highway patrol that i sat through and then passed a test after)it is quite literally in "black and white" any tire marked "not for highway use" is rejected

B2-Bomber I am sure the gray area comes from the person doing the inspection, not the code the you have quoted. My brother in his small town has no problems getting his bike passed with a non highway dirt tire, I on the other hand in SLC have a very dificult time finding a shop that will pass it, and yes I am serious. as far as I can tell....

 

[ricsrx]

This may be a little easier..
Step 1. Find friend that does inspections.
Step 2. Get inspection certificate.
Step 3. Get license Plate
Step 4. If ever pulled over, have great story about how you took the lights/blinkers off for the trail ride to not break them, and that you will put them on when at home again.
Step 5. Repeat yearly.

amen

 

[glockman]

The only thing my inspection guy checked was the horn and the DOT marking on the tires. Just my experience.