Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Dempsey,
We ended up with a used posilok. The price was right, and we won't have to wonder if the vacuum is doing it's job. Thanks for the offer though.
Maverick's kid's YJ build
- Thread starter Maverick
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
Dempsey,
We ended up with a used posilok. The price was right, and we won't have to wonder if the vacuum is doing it's job. Thanks for the offer though.
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Update: Locker install, kind of, but not yet. And learning about the YJ Dana 30.
A lockrite was kindly donated to Matt's YJ project. Or maybe it was thrown in with the MT/R's that we just bought. Either way, pretty cool, and Matt is excited. Never done any work on a Dana30, but have experience with Dana44's and 60's, and even a Dana50. Anyway, we went over the other night to pull it and came back a couple hours older but with no locker.
I had read in another thread that you can sometimes remove a lunchbox locker in a Dana 30 by pulling the driver side shaft out a little, and if the center pin can be pulled, the rest of the locker can be removed. And sometimes thicker gears won't allow the centerpin to be removed.
So...the centerpin won't come out with 3.55 gears. By about 1mm. Doubt it will on the 4.10's either. Considering grinding the inside tip of the gear (well away from the wear pattern) mainly cuz I don't want to pull the ring gear. Cuz I don't want it to go back together any different. Do I worry too much? Anyone done this?
After breaking two 1/2" breaker bars the other night, a 3/4" breaker, calibrated 1 7/16" socket, and a 4' long pipe with my 225 bouncing on it got the big 36mm nut off tonight...and I realized that I probably didn't need to pull it off, I could have just pulled the unit bearing bolts and slid out the axle shaft a little. Doh!
Pulling the carrier next time and coming home to take it apart and drop the locker in the YJ on Saturday. I picked up a 1-piece pass side shaft a couple months ago, but now we have a posilock and we are keeping the disconnect shaft set up. Anyone want to get rid of their old disconnect shafts?
No pics on this one yet.
A lockrite was kindly donated to Matt's YJ project. Or maybe it was thrown in with the MT/R's that we just bought. Either way, pretty cool, and Matt is excited. Never done any work on a Dana30, but have experience with Dana44's and 60's, and even a Dana50. Anyway, we went over the other night to pull it and came back a couple hours older but with no locker.
I had read in another thread that you can sometimes remove a lunchbox locker in a Dana 30 by pulling the driver side shaft out a little, and if the center pin can be pulled, the rest of the locker can be removed. And sometimes thicker gears won't allow the centerpin to be removed.
So...the centerpin won't come out with 3.55 gears. By about 1mm. Doubt it will on the 4.10's either. Considering grinding the inside tip of the gear (well away from the wear pattern) mainly cuz I don't want to pull the ring gear. Cuz I don't want it to go back together any different. Do I worry too much? Anyone done this?
After breaking two 1/2" breaker bars the other night, a 3/4" breaker, calibrated 1 7/16" socket, and a 4' long pipe with my 225 bouncing on it got the big 36mm nut off tonight...and I realized that I probably didn't need to pull it off, I could have just pulled the unit bearing bolts and slid out the axle shaft a little. Doh!
Pulling the carrier next time and coming home to take it apart and drop the locker in the YJ on Saturday. I picked up a 1-piece pass side shaft a couple months ago, but now we have a posilock and we are keeping the disconnect shaft set up. Anyone want to get rid of their old disconnect shafts?
No pics on this one yet.
Grinding teeth on the ring gear is common on C-clip axles. You'll be fine to do it that way.
That said, normal D30 installs have all the shims under the carrier bearings, so there really isn't much you can mess up taking the carrier out and putting it back in. Nothing really to mess up pulling the ring gear off either--with the exception of the "shouldn't use them more than once" bolts. (which are probably fine to reuse anyway....just clean thoroughly and re-red-loctite before torquing)
That said, normal D30 installs have all the shims under the carrier bearings, so there really isn't much you can mess up taking the carrier out and putting it back in. Nothing really to mess up pulling the ring gear off either--with the exception of the "shouldn't use them more than once" bolts. (which are probably fine to reuse anyway....just clean thoroughly and re-red-loctite before torquing)
Welcome to the Dana 30 world. They are actually a decent axle for the size. Definitely just pull do the 3 bolts on the unit bearing to separate. No need to pull the whole thing apart. Don't know about the 4.10 gears but the center pin will clear on 4.56s. X2 one what Carl said on pulling the carrier.
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Sweet! We'll take them. We currently have 260's. 297's would be awesome!
Well...the center pin does not come out on the 4.10's, ring gear squarely in the way, grinding a groove that big would for sure cause a wump-wump sound.
We got pretty good at pulling the unit bearings. And the axles. Especially Matt. He'll be packin' the 3/4" drive and the 1-7/16" socket. I suppose that now that they have been cycled he could get by with a 1/2" breaker and 36mm socket. And a 13mm, as everything on the front axle is held together with 13mm bolts.
Pulled the shafts (u-joints way bad) and did the lockrite. Those little spring thingies on the lockrite pins suck to remove. Went together quick though. Seemed to work on what was left of the snow pile at church on Sunday.
Replaced the U-joints. Spent about 3 days on each one Saturday night and into Sunday morning. Rusted, thrashed and mangled. Wonder if they were like that when we started plowing snow? Gave up on one when we discovered that the new U-joint package didn't have the new clips. Swapped in a different short-side shaft that we got from the lockrite doner. Yup, those 297's will be sweet.
Installed the calibrated posilok. Twice. The fork was backwards the first time.
Finished up in 14 short hours. Wow, we are slow.
Oh, there were a couple breaks in there. And a surprise party for a friend. The important thing is that we finished cleaning up just as it started raining at 3am Sunday morning.
Next up: CB and Ham radio and antenna installations. And fluids.
Used the CB antenna mount to mount the Posilok cable under the dash, so I ran out to Communication Products today to pick up anther one. Also picked up an external speaker at F'n J truck stop, along with two mic hangy thingies.
Edit: Just re-read the thread and noticed this:
Ruh-roh raggy!
Dang, I knew I forgot something!!!
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Last edited:
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Communications!
The hand-me-down jeep build continues: Ted's old 2M Yeasu 2600 and BC's dad's old CB found their way under the dash. They are connected to cables and antennas from Bob at Communication Products http://www.commproducts.net/. The ham is connected directly to the battery through 12ga wire and anderson connectors. The CB power was the last thing to finish up tonight...and I got lazy and just ran it to the "radio" slot on the fuse block and grounded to the firewall. I planned on running it straight to the battery too. I guess it depends on how well it works, and if having it turn on/off with the key is good or bad.
The mic hangers mounted with adhesive under the gauges, we'll see if that ends up being a good idea or not, and if the plastic hangers will keep the mics in place when things get bouncy. You can see the red posilok button below the heater controls.
The external speaker for the CB mounted in place of the footman loop on the windshield frame (above the rearview mirror) using the existing screws.
No talky-talky yet...still need to hook up the SWR meter and get things right. Also need some grommets for the 3/4" holes that we had to drill. Where is the best place to procure said grommets?
One of the vacuum lines to the axle disconnect just broke right off tonight when I was tracing it back to see where to plug it off. Replacing ALL of the vacuum lines on the itty-bitty engine is on the list of things to do.
The hand-me-down jeep build continues: Ted's old 2M Yeasu 2600 and BC's dad's old CB found their way under the dash. They are connected to cables and antennas from Bob at Communication Products http://www.commproducts.net/. The ham is connected directly to the battery through 12ga wire and anderson connectors. The CB power was the last thing to finish up tonight...and I got lazy and just ran it to the "radio" slot on the fuse block and grounded to the firewall. I planned on running it straight to the battery too. I guess it depends on how well it works, and if having it turn on/off with the key is good or bad.
The mic hangers mounted with adhesive under the gauges, we'll see if that ends up being a good idea or not, and if the plastic hangers will keep the mics in place when things get bouncy. You can see the red posilok button below the heater controls.
The external speaker for the CB mounted in place of the footman loop on the windshield frame (above the rearview mirror) using the existing screws.
No talky-talky yet...still need to hook up the SWR meter and get things right. Also need some grommets for the 3/4" holes that we had to drill. Where is the best place to procure said grommets?
One of the vacuum lines to the axle disconnect just broke right off tonight when I was tracing it back to see where to plug it off. Replacing ALL of the vacuum lines on the itty-bitty engine is on the list of things to do.
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mombobuggy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Ace hardware has bulkhead grommets in the bolt area.
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
A little at a time. And fun in the meantime.
Perfect! I'll head over there if I can find 10 minutes. There's one on Redwood, right?
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Matt rocked the YJ in Moab last week. Drove it like a boss on the trails we did (Hell's Revenge, Rose Garden, Elephant Hill, Steel Bender and Klondike Bluffs). We did Golden Spike too, but didn't take his jeep. While it's pretty capable with 33's, low gearing and lockers, with the D35 and 260 equipped D30, it's not very durable. Still need to pick up the 297's from Mesha. He had some friends come down for 3 of the trails and they had a lot of fun riding in his jeep.
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RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
I have a TJ 30 I'm parting out. If you are interested, I'll sell you guys the stock shafts for cheap. Seems like you guys eliminated the vac disconnect?
Looks like a fun trip. I'm jealous for sure!
Looks like a fun trip. I'm jealous for sure!
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Wow, I didn't even post on the Rubicon trip here, or any of the carnage. I'll have to later.
I guess since the last update we did the 'Con, broke a shackle, and replaced them with shackles from Carl. They were only 1" longer but lifted the jeep just over 1" vs 0.5" as was expected. I suppose because they put the springs at a different arch and angle. Anyway, much better.
He's been driving it and enjoying it.
We recently swapped tires for inspection and ever since we put the 33's back on, we're getting a "bounce" at 37mph. We forgot to mark the tires when we took them off, so my guess is that a rear tire ended up on the front from the other side or something. Any ideas on how to remedy besides trial and error (moving tires to different positions). I couldn't see any obvious cupping when I looked last night, but I didn't look at all 4 tires either.
I guess since the last update we did the 'Con, broke a shackle, and replaced them with shackles from Carl. They were only 1" longer but lifted the jeep just over 1" vs 0.5" as was expected. I suppose because they put the springs at a different arch and angle. Anyway, much better.
He's been driving it and enjoying it.
We recently swapped tires for inspection and ever since we put the 33's back on, we're getting a "bounce" at 37mph. We forgot to mark the tires when we took them off, so my guess is that a rear tire ended up on the front from the other side or something. Any ideas on how to remedy besides trial and error (moving tires to different positions). I couldn't see any obvious cupping when I looked last night, but I didn't look at all 4 tires either.
I am sure you didn't plan that statement to be as funny as it was. I laughed seriously hard for some reason.
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Get the front two balanced
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Me too, that was pretty funny. But ya, we could do that.
They've got a ton of weights on them. Probably worth re-doing.
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
He swapped the tires back to the original position and the vibe went away.
New issue though, apparently the rear lockrite is popping all the time. I haven't driven it, but I guess I need to take it for a spin, jack up the back and pull the cover and see what's going on.
Front brakes are pulling too. Some TLC is needed but we're too busy working/playing at the moment. Gotta sled & ski while there is snow!
New issue though, apparently the rear lockrite is popping all the time. I haven't driven it, but I guess I need to take it for a spin, jack up the back and pull the cover and see what's going on.
Front brakes are pulling too. Some TLC is needed but we're too busy working/playing at the moment. Gotta sled & ski while there is snow!
Maverick
old-school
- Location
- Anywhere, thanks to my geeky droid
Rear lockrite isn't engaging passenger side. Haven't pulled the cover yet, but that's generally a bad sign. I'm really curious to see why (guessing bent housing).
In the meantime, I need to look at options: replace with D35, upgrade to 8.8, upgrade to?? Swap in other lockrite and hope to get another couple years out of it?
Anyone selling a locked 4.10 Dana 35 for a YJ?
In the meantime, I need to look at options: replace with D35, upgrade to 8.8, upgrade to?? Swap in other lockrite and hope to get another couple years out of it?
Anyone selling a locked 4.10 Dana 35 for a YJ?