Mishimoto XJ Performance Radiator Install

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
Mishimoto designed a new radiator for the XJ, it has 90% more capacity than the stock XJ one.

Here is an article about the design;
https://www.mishimoto.com/engineering/2017/07/jeep-xj-cherokee-radiator-part-1/

My 1999 XJ is so modified that I can't ever seem to put a part in without modifying the new part, so I was skeptical that this would drop right in. It did drop in, I did have to re-route a Power Steering Cooler line, the Radiator pushed the line into the back of the headlight assembly. I call that dropping in!

I am not going to do a writeup on the install, installing a radiator in an XJ is pretty straight forward, actually probably easier than a lot of vehicles.

I purchased this on "pre-sale" so I paid much less than what they are selling them for now. But they got my money anyway since I bought their "Liquid Chill" Synthetic coolant. They do have a rewards program so if you are going to order a radiator, sign up for that, get your points then use your points toward the coolant.

One of the biggest problems with this radiator is that it looks so nice and is hidden away between fans and A/C condenser, like a lot of blinging parts it would be nice to be able to show it off. ;)

Since it is January in Salt Lake, I won't be able to give any kind performance review for a few months, hopefully I will remember to update this thread then. My 4.0 has been stroked to a 4.6L and hasn't ever really run "hot" but the cooling system could use an upgrade, the electric fan would run fairly constantly in Moab.

I did have one weird issue that I have never had; When I filled it up I somehow trapped an air bubble in the lower radiator hose. When I started the motor the water pump did not move any water. After taking the system apart (and spilling a gallon of the really expensive synthetic coolant...) I decided that there must have been an air bubble in the low spot of the lower radiator hose. Next time I filled it up from the heater bypass next to the thermostat and it worked fine.

One other comment, (that I will send to Mishimoto since this is a new product) is the lower transmission oil line on the radiator hit part of the inner fender, since I have a manual transmission I do not have ATF going through the radiator so I just removed the line and it wasn't an issue. It is in a tight spot so I couldn't take a picture of it. So if you are using the oil line you may have to cut a bit of the inner fender to clear the lower oil line.

Here are some pictures, including my tiny funnel to fill through the heater bypass.IMG_20171231_095752.jpg

IMG_20171231_101603.jpg

IMG_20171231_102418.jpgIMG_20180106_094446.jpg

IMG_20180106_100641.jpg

IMG_20180101_124054.jpg

IMG_20180106_094442.jpg

Nathan
1999 XJ with pretty much everything...
https://www.rme4x4.com/threads/nathan-and-tanjas-99-xj-build-up.83436/
 
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thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
I bet you could run your power steering cooler in series with the radiator for additional PS cooling.

I have considered it, for the hydro assist the main advantage would probably be having more capacity in the PS system. It seems like it would be little gain to use the radiator oil passage. It also looks like the PS fluid should be bellow 180 degrees, a little lower than transmission fluid, so I am not sure that the radiator would cool the PS system. I don't think I have had PS heat issues.

Really I am surprised that I am not more seriously looking at a PSC pump with remote reservoir...
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/motor...jeep/95-06-4-0-jeep-high-volume-pump-kit.html

Nathan
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
I did notice that in the Qudratec catalog the price is not much more than I paid on the "pre order" sale that I got.

So far so good, I think I finally have all the air out of the system. The next warm weekend I will hit 5 mile pass and see if my temps creep up.

Nathan
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
On 3/31 we went out to 5 Mile Pass, got to do some highway followed by some mild low speed stuff, followed by more highway.

Only after getting heavy on the throttle on an obstacle, then crawling did the temp gauge go above 210, and then only for a minute or two. It works better than stock for sure. The real test will be Guardsman Pass in July.

Oh and Thanks to Gravy (or was it Badger, now I can't remember) my rear diff doesn't spit fluid on the highway, adding about a cup of ATF to the rear diff keeps the fluid from spitting out the vent!

I am still eyballing a 3 electric fan setup mostly for the coolness factor...

Nathan
 

Omgbecki

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
I can't speak on the XJ radiator but I have their 2 core radiator in my wrangler and I love the dang thing. Never once got above the normal 210 on the idiot gauge durning EJS 2017 and can constantly tell when the thermostat opens up because it'll dip down a little with the colder air. I have noticed that the under hood temp is a little higher then normal after shutting it off due to the inherent temperature dispersment of aluminum. As mentioned it does kinda suck to have something so pretty hidden. If I have to name a complaint it would be that my radiator came with multiple fittings for the auto trans lines which took some guess work to figure out and sadly due to the larger core size naturally the radiator is thicker. I couldn't use my Taurus fan set up anymore so I've been wired for an electric fan that I can't use anymore. Hopefully this new DERALE fan will work. All in all I'm glad I got it.
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
So for the summer I have been running the 98 ZJ Napa 272310 fan clutch. In the winter I run the OEM fan clutch.

I went to install my HD ZJ fan clutch and could not install it without moving the radiator, I could have installed it but the fan would have been much closer to the radiator than I would like. So I am still running the OEM fan clutch.

So if I need more air flow I will have to go with 3, 10 inch electric fans...

Nathan
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Why bother swapping back to the OEM clutch in the winter? As long as your thermostat functions, you shouldn't have any issue reaching proper operating temps regardless of cooling capacity... Parasitic power loss due to the tighter clutch?
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
a few (dumb) reasons

mainly because I think that I shouldn't need the HD fan clutch, then when the weather gets warm I get nervous and put it on

also because the last 3 years I have dyno'd the thing in the spring and want all the measurable power

and the noise, the HD fan clutch is louder... (yeah I know 37 inch mtr's are quiet as a Prius...)

Nathan
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
So we went to Moab 5/2. The highs were low 80's. My engine occasionally would go above 210, and the electric fan would rarely come on.

That is better than before, the electric fan would run almost continuously on the trail when it was warm.

I still have my heat soak (heat sink) issue so when we would stop on the trail I would leave it running and/or pop the hood open.

(of course the solution to that is 3, 10 inch electric fans, one of which will be really high cfm...)

Nathan
 
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