Narrowing Axles?

Cascadia

Undecided
Location
Orem, Utah
I'm looking to narrow a set of dana 60's. Who in Utah County narrows axle tubes and shafts and get it all back together so it's ready to run? They will need to be narrowes to fit under a LJ Wrangler but I want them to be like an inch wider than stock on each side to get a little bit more width on the jeep without going too far outside my flares. And what would something like this run if anyone has done it or does it?
 
I took mine to advanced 4x4 in salt lake, they narrowed a new dana 44 to 1 inch wider than stock for my yj. its not cheap, they narrowed it, and put new spring perches on top and cut off all the other brackets. It was right at 850.00, ready to bolt in, they dida grat job. there # is 801-521-2334. Good Luck
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
There are a few people than can do the housings, I would even do a front, but with all the axle options I wouldn't mess with narrowing the rear.

Shafts I send out dutchman in Portland.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
There are a few people than can do the housings, I would even do a front, but with all the axle options I wouldn't mess with narrowing the rear.

Shafts I send out dutchman in Portland.

If they just need to be resplined, then Summit Machine can do them locally.
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
I'm looking to narrow a set of dana 60's. Who in Utah County narrows axle tubes and shafts and get it all back together so it's ready to run? They will need to be narrowes to fit under a LJ Wrangler but I want them to be like an inch wider than stock on each side to get a little bit more width on the jeep without going too far outside my flares. And what would something like this run if anyone has done it or does it?

I will be doing this in pretty soon too. I am putting a 96 ford dana 60 and a gm 14 bolt under an xj. I actually thought about doing an LJ, at least I wouldn't have to build a frame like with the xj, but used LJ's are still kind of expensive.

A lot of people on here will say stay away from advanced 4 wheel drive.

For the rear I am going to use a regular single wheel gm-14bolt, I am going to have the passenger side tube shortened six inches. This will put the differential 6 inches off center. However this gets economical because the driver side shaft is exactly 6 inches shorter than the passenger side so all I need to do is go to tear-a-part and grab an OEM short side shaft. It's pretty tough to break an OEM 14 bolt shaft. This will put the axle right at 61.5 inches WMS-WMS. (also economical since I have a 14 bolt already)

Wayne, Alljeep.com, found a rear dana 60 from some odd vehicle that was like 63 inches or something. I don't know if you have your axles already or not.

For the front I am having both side tubes messed with, the 96 ford driver side is pretty much too short to weld link tabs and everything on so I will be lengthening it, probably to the length of a chevy short side so the only "custom" axle shaft I will have will be the long side front (pass side) Which could get cut and re-splined...

let me know what you come up with.

Summit and Rad Jeeper were also recommended to do housing work to me...

Advanced is in Salt Lake, not Utah County...

Nathan
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Just a thought, it may be just a little more money to build what you want with all new parts, rather than cut, adapt, fit, etc a used, full-width axle down to the size you want.

I had a Tera 60 built by TeraFlex for my TJ and it turned out very well. - http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?t=46555 ( Hummmm, images are missing from that thread, not sure why?)

One issue I ran into was that I bought a used high pinion center section online and we were going to build my axle around that. When it was time for assembly, we quickly learned that my used housing was junk, as it was bent and un-usable. I realized that junk-yard parts are just that.... you don't know what you're getting.

I would at least look into the option, it may cost a little more up front, but not having the hassle of piecing together a used housing and make it work for your needs may be worth the extra expense.
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
Just a thought, it may be just a little more money to build what you want with all new parts, rather than cut, adapt, fit, etc a used, full-width axle down to the size you want.

I had a Tera 60 built by TeraFlex for my TJ and it turned out very well. - http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?t=46555 ( Hummmm, images are missing from that thread, not sure why?)

One issue I ran into was that I bought a used high pinion center section online and we were going to build my axle around that. When it was time for assembly, we quickly learned that my used housing was junk, as it was bent and un-usable. I realized that junk-yard parts are just that.... you don't know what you're getting.

I would at least look into the option, it may cost a little more up front, but not having the hassle of piecing together a used housing and make it work for your needs may be worth the extra expense.

That is true a used front Dana 60 goes for about $1000.00, by the time you lock, gear, custom tubes, custom shafts, hi-steer, you are have probably $2500-ish into building a front axle and it

(of course I already have my axles, locked and matching gears so...)

does anyone know how much danatrac charges for a front pro 60?

get a danatrac 60 up front, then run an explorer 8.8 out back should hold up under an LJ really well and you would retain the stock wheel pattern...

Nater
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
does anyone know how much danatrac charges for a front pro 60?

Last I heard, of course this was a long time ago and I don't know how accurate it was, but it's about $7500-$10K for a front ready to run from Dynatrac.

Lot better options than a Dynatrac though that will be much cheaper.
 

sixb

Will work for beer!
Location
West Jordan, UT
For the rear I am going to use a regular single wheel gm-14bolt, I am going to have the passenger side tube shortened six inches. This will put the differential 6 inches off center. However this gets economical because the driver side shaft is exactly 6 inches shorter than the passenger side so all I need to do is go to tear-a-part and grab an OEM short side shaft. It's pretty tough to break an OEM 14 bolt shaft. This will put the axle right at 61.5 inches WMS-WMS. (also economical since I have a 14 bolt already)

Nathan

By swapping to cab & chassis hubs you can narrow the srw 14 bolt from 67" to 63" wms-wms.
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
By swapping to cab & chassis hubs you can narrow the srw 14 bolt from 67" to 63" wms-wms.

I have looked for C&C hubs but have had no luck finding them. Also don't you have to install a different brake baking plate so the brakes line up?

Nathan
 

sixb

Will work for beer!
Location
West Jordan, UT
I have looked for C&C hubs but have had no luck finding them. Also don't you have to install a different brake baking plate so the brakes line up?

Nathan

I have an extra set of c&c dually hubs, pm if interested and Dlux used the weld on disc brake bracket from Ruff stuff when building mine.
 
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