Need TRE part #s!

[RockMonkey]

I have a 79(ish) Bronco dana 44 and I want to flip the tie rod from under the knuckles to over the knuckles, and I want to get a passenger side TRE that has the hole in the top for the drag link. I thought I had the part numbers I needed, but it turns out the TRE passenger side TRE part number I has the hole rotated 90 degrees from what I want, so the drag link would be in front (or behind) of the tie rod, instead of on top. I need some help finding a part number for the TRE with the hole on the top for the drag link.

Here are the part numbers I have:

Tie Rod:
ES2233L for pass side (reamed hole for TRE) NAPA PN 269-2554
ES2234R for driver side

Drag Link:
ES2027L for pitman arm (high angle)
ES2234R for pass side (mounts to TRE ES2233L)

The ES2027L and ES2026R are stock 85 Blazer drag link ends.

The ES2233L and ES2234R are stock 85 Blazer tre's.

Here's a picture of the TRE that won't work because the hole is rotated wrong:

Does anyone have any insight on the right part numbers?

 

[I Lean]

So you're wanting the steering stabilizer hole (which you'll re-ream and use for your draglink) to be vertical rather than the normal horizontal hole? I don't know that one like that exists.

Having the drag link attach in front of the tie rod is the very reason people make/sell little plastic donuts to go under the TRE's of the tie rod, to keep it from rotating front/back when you try to steer.

Maybe you could make something to go in the tie rod, like a block--similar to how Rocky Road does their steering?

 

[RockMonkey]

So you're wanting the steering stabilizer hole (which you'll re-ream and use for your draglink) to be vertical rather than the normal horizontal hole? I don't know that one like that exists.

Having the drag link attach in front of the tie rod is the very reason people make/sell little plastic donuts to go under the TRE's of the tie rod, to keep it from rotating front/back when you try to steer.

Maybe you could make something to go in the tie rod, like a block--similar to how Rocky Road does their steering?

Yeah, I looked through all 2600-and-something TREs that NAPA sells and there is not one like I wanted. I'll just try the part numbers I have and see how they work.

 

[Gravy]

get one that has a smaller taper for the drag link and reream it for the 1-ton end on the other side.

 

[RockMonkey]

get one that has a smaller taper for the drag link and reream it for the 1-ton end on the other side.

I couldn't find one the has the hole on the top, regardless of the taper.

 

[Gravy]

I think I found it!

Here you go

from JCR offroad's website

 

[XJEEPER]

Digger, take the ES2233L and rotate the Draglink TRE hole 90 degrees, so the TRE would be inserted from the top and bolted on the bottom, not front to back.......that's what Braden's searching for.

As Carl mentioned there is a nylon/delrin type washer that you can install to prevent the DL TRE from rolling and creating a dead spot, but they eventually wear out.

On my Currie draglink, the Pass side DL TRE housing is actually slotted, so the ball can only move side to side in the socket, not swivel 360. This would solve the rolling problem as well.........I'd love to find a TRE that is designed this same way, so I could chop off the DL TRE, weld on a threaded tube insert and run a replaceable slotted TRE in the OTK position.

 

[Gravy]

gotcha. why run it on top? won't that max out the TRE pretty quickly?

 

[RockMonkey]

gotcha. why run it on top? won't that max out the TRE pretty quickly?

Because it make the drag link closer to flat, and a closer match to my track bar. It would also reduce (or eliminate) the "dead spot" produced by the force of the drag link rotating the tie rod before it starts turning the wheels. The drag link at the pitman arm is already taking similar angles, the one at the axle would not max out it's angle.

 

[I Lean]

I think this is going to be your only option for a hole with the orientation you need. I don't see why you can't make it strong enough to work....

http://www.rocky-road.com/media/highsteer.JPG

 

[Herzog]

What about machining a steel block that accepts the tie-rod tube on one side (sleeved in) and is tapped for a rod-end at the other? Then you can drill & tap for your drag-link rod end. I know a local machinist that might be able to pull it off.

 

[RockMonkey]

I bought the traditionally-oriented TRE today. I'll give it a shot, and if I'm not happy with the results, I'll do a flat-top knuckle and high steer arm.

 

[Gravy]

I didn't like the idea of a "custom" part like a reverse reamed TRE that wouldn't be easily replaced if bent.
and so the tie rod didn't roll as much.
This is what I did

 

[RockMonkey]

Yeah, I thought about a setup like that. It makes it more difficult to adjust the alignment, and I don't want to use any heim joints in my steering.

 

[Corban_White]

...and I don't want to use any heim joints in my steering.

I've been wondering about this quite a bit recently, why not?

 

[RockMonkey]

They loosen up quickly and develop a lot more slop than tie rod ends. Having one of them in your whole steering system probably isn't going to hurt much, but if you have one at each end of your drag link, and one at each end of your tie rod, and they've all developed a little play, you end up with a lot of play in your steering system. The result can be unintended lane changes, wandering, death wobble, etc. There's also the question of legality and possible failed safety inspection. Most people also use them in single shear, with a straight bolt and no cone washers, so the bolt can easily develop quite a bit of play, adding to the steering nastyness.

I know there are 100s of people that are going to reply that they have heims in their steering and it works 100% perfectly, but I've seen enough that my personal preference is to avoid them.

 

[Gravy]

I think it is more based on how you use tre's or heims in steering vs if they are always good or always bad.
I've seen plenty of bad steering setups both with heims and tre's.

Herzog idea is pretty cool!

 

[XJEEPER]

Left photo is what we need, only in TRE form, not a Draglink, like this Currie DL end. Slotted to allow movement but minimizes rolling.

Center photo from my old XJ steering setup, made from DOM and solid stock, used some ES150 TRE's for an OTK setup that worked well. Similar to what Herzog suggested.

Right photo is my modified Currie steering, with a DOM sleeve and threaded insert added to the Pass side to accept a TRE so I could go OTK with the steering. A slotted TRE would be nice for the Knuckle end in this application, as well.

 

[waynehartwig]

They loosen up quickly and develop a lot more slop than tie rod ends. Having one of them in your whole steering system probably isn't going to hurt much, but if you have one at each end of your drag link, and one at each end of your tie rod, and they've all developed a little play, you end up with a lot of play in your steering system. The result can be unintended lane changes, wandering, death wobble, etc. There's also the question of legality and possible failed safety inspection. Most people also use them in single shear, with a straight bolt and no cone washers, so the bolt can easily develop quite a bit of play, adding to the steering nastyness.

I know there are 100s of people that are going to reply that they have heims in their steering and it works 100% perfectly, but I've seen enough that my personal preference is to avoid them.

Why not do the same thing, but use TRE's instead of heims? You can at least use TRE's in 3 of the 4 spots pretty easily.