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OSRC Roll Cage Clarification for 2013

Craig S

Craig S

Commando
Location
Delta, Utah
Hi Teams,

There has been a great deal of discussion about the roll cage rule. I appreciate the teams input on this subject, please comment here or contact Brian or myself on any portion of the rules including roll cages. Brian and I have given this a lot of thought based on the teams input and our experience with rock crawling competitions. Wording similar to this will be added to the 2013 rules, "A 4 point roll cage is required in stock class vehicles equipped with a steel roof, and 6 point roll cage required for all others". Below is the reasoning for this:

1. Brian and I don't want anybody hurt.
2. If a serious rollover happens and someone goes to the hospital there is a possibility that the Delta Proving Grounds could be closed.
3. Trucks are difficult to install a 6 point roll cage in.
4. A 4 point roll cage will be acceptable in stock class vehicles with a steel roof. A six point roll cage is highly recommended.

Cages are essential equipment for off road vehicles that drive on difficult terrain. I have rolled over thirty times (stopped counting after 30) and have battle scars and damage from poor equipment to my body. I have received a concussion that lasted for 2 weeks, my back is screwed up from a roll in Farmington, and my ribs have been broken. My safety equipment was not good when I started competing. I now use a reinforced 6 point cage made from cromo (4130) tube which is stronger that DOM. I use suspension seats that cushion the blow from rolling over. My seats are attached to the roll cage and frame. I use a tightly cinched 5 point, wide strap harness with extra padding, and a helmet for the hard stuff. I recommend that the teams consider what I am passing along to you because it is based on 14 years of rock crawling competition over the most extreme obstacles in the US. Be safe, your family and loved ones need you.

For B2-Bomber and others, Spartacus has volunteered the use of his tube bender for roll cages. Spartacus has offered five point harnesses at his cost to competitors. He also has access to suspension seats that really help in a hard roll to keep you safe.

Thanks,
Craig
 
B

B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
I want everyone to know how much i appreciate the previous modification of the rule to allow frame swaps in the stock class. i feel like it had a lot to do with changing the rules so people like me could compete

but i don't know if i will have a roll cage in. I put a pm into UFAB and he estimated a cage for my BII to be around $1200.00, i may not be able to compete
 
TJDukit

TJDukit

I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
Location
Clearfield
B2-Bomber said:
I want everyone to know how much i appreciate the previous modification of the rule to allow frame swaps in the stock class. i feel like it had a lot to do with changing the rules so people like me could compete

but i don't know if i will have a roll cage in. I put a pm into UFAB and he estimated a cage for my BII to be around $1200.00, i may not be able to compete
Click to expand...

See it helps to start out right with a Jeep and already have a roll bar:rofl: But seriously I hope you can get something worked out and make it down.

I will say that you did have a big hand in the frame change rule which I do like since in your situation your frame swap doesn't give you any clear advantage over another stock street rig with a similiar build.
 
TJDukit

TJDukit

I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
Location
Clearfield
You can get away with an angle grinder instead of a notcher, a little more work and not quite as nice of a fit but it will do. Cut out a V and use the grinder to make it more round u-shape ish.
 
B

B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
i know that i could also do other corner-cutting/bare minimum things and get the cost of this waaaay down from $1200.00

but i've always had the philosophy that if you are going to do something, you might as well do it the best you can
if possible i would like to use a notcher to get the tightest/best fitting joints possible.
 
maveric

maveric

Crawler Collecter
Location
In The Middle Of No-Where
I agree completely that a cage is needed in the stock class, and on any other vehicle that will be wheeled. I was needing clarification on 4pt or 6pt for the stock class, since the trucks are difficult to put a true 6pt cage in.
Like Craig, I have rolled more times that I can count, and it has been brought to my attention that my ftoy spends more time on its side/top than on its tires. They are a cheap upgrade, and worth it. Some may ask if it is really worth the money, and that can be answered the first time your rig rolls unexpectedly down a 15' ledge and you walk away unharmed. Although cages are a "cheap" upgrade, don't cut corners to save money. Buy the right size tube to handle the weight of your vehicle, and don't use pipe. Spend the extra time and do it right.


TJDukit said:
You can get away with an angle grinder instead of a notcher, a little more work and not quite as nice of a fit but it will do. Cut out a V and use the grinder to make it more round u-shape ish.
Click to expand...

You can also use a chopsaw or band saw to create the notch. I have used this technique on previous cages, and it works rather well. Sometimes the notch needs adjusted a little to fit tight, but I have had to adjust the notch using a notcher as well.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Links/ Scroll down about 2/3 and it shows how to use the saw and what angles to set it at.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
B2-Bomber said:
i know that i could also do other corner-cutting/bare minimum things and get the cost of this waaaay down from $1200.00

but i've always had the philosophy that if you are going to do something, you might as well do it the best you can
if possible i would like to use a notcher to get the tightest/best fitting joints possible.
Click to expand...

After you build your cage, you'll realize that Mitch is only paying himself somewhere around $1.37 per hour to build a cage for you at that price. :)
 
B

B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
i thought his price was totally reasonable

i've built 2 dragster chassis' (helped on the first one, second one i did myself) once upon a time, but that was when i had a notcher, and i had blueprints from mark williams.
believe it or not there are only like 6 bent tubes in an entire dragster, which i bought pre-bent, the rest are straight and notched

i tacked it up, and paid someone to tig-weld it up for me, and it cost me every bit of $1200
 
Last edited:
BCGPER

BCGPER

Starting Another Thread
Location
Sunny Arizona
Just to add:

All non CJ, YJ, and TJ owners, please remember if you're planning on running without doors you'll need a horizontal tube roughly 5" from the floor to keep your feet inside in the event of a tip over or you'll need to run tube doors.
 
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