Outdoor Kitchen Construction Experience Wanted

[ZUKEYPR]

Any fellow members have personal experience with building outdoor kitchens in the Salt Lake Valley, preferably someone that actually does it for a living?

My question is there are a multitude of methods of building them that I have seen
a. PT wood studs, with plywood, roofing felt, lathe, then what covering you desire such as stucco or rock etc. (The PT wood to select from around here is absolutely terrible and doesn't seem to maintain it's integrity). This is how my current rough framing is but I'm not passed the point of no return to change it.
b. Concrete Block then faced with one of the aforementioned (time consuming)
c. brick mason the entire thing. I got the skill set but who has time for that
d. Metal Studs with hardiboard. Everywhere that I have looked and every DIY show that I have ever seen showed this as the preferred method which is where my question lies. I called the manufacturer of hardiboard and they don't recommend their own product for outdoor use, especially one that will be resting on a concrete slab (8" thick). They stated that it would absorb moisture then deteriorate. My kitchen would be finished with stacked slate.

Any professionals who use hardiboard ran into this issue? What method do you use?

 

[Tonkaman]

I'm no expert here but I've seen plenty of hardie board used solely as the exterior of buildings. Don't confuse concrete style tile backed for true hardie board.

 

[Bart]

Subscribed. Want to build an outdoor kitchen next spring.

 

[Caleb]

I'll be watching this. I've gone back and forth so many times on doing an outdoor kitchen when I finish my patio.

 

[thefirstzukman]

Is this going to be covered? makes a huge difference. Also what do you plan on covering it with? makes a difference.

 

[ZUKEYPR]

Covered as in overhead or in finish veneer etc? I'm veneering with real stacked slate that is one inch thick. The top will be recycled glass. No overhead cover.

 

[thefirstzukman]

View attachment 107261Covered as in overhead or in finish veneer etc? I'm veneering with real stacked slate that is one inch thick. The top will be recycled glass. No overhead cover.

If i was building one I would use whatever materials I felt comfortable working with, the big thing here is proper waterproofing on the exterior. with it not covered overhead you need to be concerned with snow build up around it, snow will melt and the water will freeze causing damage to to whatever the materials are. Any material covering it that touches the ground is susceptible to freeze thaw damage. Occasionally I run into a house where due to the grade you have covering material running to the ground, it is best to try to flash and seal to the concrete to try to prevent water from wicking up the wall are start causing damage. I have seen plenty of those shows with them using the Hardi Backer over metal studs, but never in Utah.

I think the most bulletproof way to do it would be to start out with a course of cinder block or build an 8" foundation wall and the build over that so you have some way of protecting you materials from standing water, but Im not a professional exterior kitchen builder.. just an exterior and flooring guy. Regardless it would most likely be the difference between it lasting 15 years and 50 years.

Exterior type stone - Double stucco wrap paper it, over lap the top for protection even though it will be covered with a Counter top. I would recommend a Diamond wire mesh over a chicken wire for scratch coat, and you will need to caulk over all attaching staples, you will also need a Weep Screed along the bottom.

Tile type stacked slate - use a waterproof liquid membrane over the exterior such as Merkrete Hydro Guard 2000, making sure to use a fabric over all joints. Let dry and tile directly over the hydro guard.

you are fighting the cold right now, make sure you keep temperatures above recommendation by tenting it and heating.

 

[ZUKEYPR]

Excellent info: pretty close of what I was looking for:

" it is best to try to flash and seal to the concrete to try to prevent water from wicking up the wall are start causing damage."

So you cannot see in the photo but I was wrapping roofing membrane on the bottom and up both the front and back 10" to try to prevent this. Just a theory of mine but I have no real world experience to say that would work.

"I think the most bulletproof way to do it would be to start out with a course of cinder block or build an 8" foundation wall and the build over that so you have some way of protecting you materials from standing water"

So the pony walls, as of now, are built on top of a 8" highly reinforced concrete slab...but the top of that slab is at ground elevation. I'm more than capable of masonry and actually have thought about building the entire darn thing out of block, then facing it. Just a lot more work. it would probably better though to take the radient heat of the gargantuan barbeque I have sitting in my living room like some redneck. Right now I used pressure treated studs as well as PT plywood, but that PT plywood is crap and is already delaminated. granted I shouldn't of left it exposed as long as I did, but my back yar?d project (4 years on going) is pushing the 50K threshold on material. The wife says that's where the one ton diesel that I've wanted is sitting.

So let me run this buy you, would it be better and far less prone to moisture if I used a marine grade plywood, then either painted it or waterproofed it prior to putting on the paper

"Exterior type stone - Double stucco wrap paper it, over lap the top for protection even though it will be covered with a Counter top. I would recommend a Diamond wire mesh over a chicken wire for scratch coat,"

Precisely how I planned on it

"and you will need to caulk over all attaching staples, you will also need a Weep Screed along the bottom."
OK you lost me on this point. Are you saying when I attach the mesh I should caulk the fasteners, even though I'll be placing a scratch coat over it? Also I have no clue what Weep Screed is.

"Tile type stacked slate - use a waterproof liquid membrane over the exterior such as Merkrete Hydro Guard 2000, making sure to use a fabric over all joints. Let dry and tile directly over the hydro guard.:
You lost me on this point as well. Merkrete is a mortor? I was intending on using Granirapid. Or is this something you suggest putting down prior to the scratch coat?

"you are fighting the cold right now, make sure you keep temperatures above recommendation by tenting it and heating."

Point taken, no intention on reworking until spring.

 

[johngottfredson]

I've used this product in the past for outdoor kitchen stuff or fireplaces, etc. Concrete board on a steel frame, ready to finish with masonry or stucco. For simple and fast, it's hard to beat. I've purchased through Ewing.
http://www.rtfsystems.net/

 

[comingdown]

The hydro guard goes on before the tile and mortar. Roll it on, let it dry and create a waterproof membrane and tile right over the top of that.

 

[thefirstzukman]

Excellent info: pretty close of what I was looking for:

" it is best to try to flash and seal to the concrete to try to prevent water from wicking up the wall are start causing damage."

So you cannot see in the photo but I was wrapping roofing membrane on the bottom and up both the front and back 10" to try to prevent this. Just a theory of mine but I have no real world experience to say that would work.

"I think the most bulletproof way to do it would be to start out with a course of cinder block or build an 8" foundation wall and the build over that so you have some way of protecting you materials from standing water"

So the pony walls, as of now, are built on top of a 8" highly reinforced concrete slab...but the top of that slab is at ground elevation. I'm more than capable of masonry and actually have thought about building the entire darn thing out of block, then facing it. Just a lot more work. it would probably better though to take the radient heat of the gargantuan barbeque I have sitting in my living room like some redneck. Right now I used pressure treated studs as well as PT plywood, but that PT plywood is crap and is already delaminated. granted I shouldn't of left it exposed as long as I did, but my back yar?d project (4 years on going) is pushing the 50K threshold on material. The wife says that's where the one ton diesel that I've wanted is sitting.

So let me run this buy you, would it be better and far less prone to moisture if I used a marine grade plywood, then either painted it or waterproofed it prior to putting on the paper - You shouldn't need to do anything like that, it would be overkill.

"Exterior type stone - Double stucco wrap paper it, over lap the top for protection even though it will be covered with a Counter top. I would recommend a Diamond wire mesh over a chicken wire for scratch coat,"

Precisely how I planned on it

"and you will need to caulk over all attaching staples, you will also need a Weep Screed along the bottom."
OK you lost me on this point. Are you saying when I attach the mesh I should caulk the fasteners, even though I'll be placing a scratch coat over it? Also I have no clue what Weep Screed is. - Yes, you need to caulk over the staples.. your scratch coat isnt waterproof, moisture will get through. Weep Screed is a J channel that has holes along the bottom to let out any moisture that gets through the stone, it also helps the wall breath.

"Tile type stacked slate - use a waterproof liquid membrane over the exterior such as Merkrete Hydro Guard 2000, making sure to use a fabric over all joints. Let dry and tile directly over the hydro guard.:
You lost me on this point as well. Merkrete is a mortor? I was intending on using Granirapid. Or is this something you suggest putting down prior to the scratch coat? - nothing needed under scratch coat other than the stucco double wrap paper and diamond wire, the other is for a tile type install.

"you are fighting the cold right now, make sure you keep temperatures above recommendation by tenting it and heating."

Point taken, no intention on reworking until spring.

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, work is crazy right now... cant build fast enough.

 

[airmanwilliams]

Subscribed.

I dont have the space for a kitchen right now but I REALLY want to build this for my masterbuilt smoker and all accessories.

 

[ZUKEYPR]

Coming along great. Three steps left: barbecue surround, stone, and counter top

Cabinets built


Raised panel doors made


Rough framing


Substrate-marine grade plywood


Waterproofing-Hydroguard 2000

 

[ZUKEYPR]

 

[airmanwilliams]

Dude! That's killer work.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[mbryson]

Looks really cool!

 

[ZUKEYPR]

Thanks guys. It's in conjunction with my pergola and firepit

 

[ZUKEYPR]

The black spot on the one end will be a water feature on the inside and an American Flag on the outside constructed of wood with a plaques of all family members who served. The fire pit is 19 1/2' across and 5' deep. Since the photo I've capped the ring. The pergola is all pinned with hardwood dowel. This is also the prodominant reason nobody has seen my LJ on the trails in 2 years and 8 months.

 

[ZUKEYPR]

Kitchen has been completed!

 

[bryson]

That looks great, Jeff!