Paint?

chadschoon

chadschoon

Well-Known Member
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I'm going to paint my chassis here real soon. I've bought rustolem flat black paint in a gallon. My question is does anyone know if I have to thin it down to spray it out of a gun? I so how much?
 
Have you thought of using POR15? Great stuff and tuff as nails. I like to brush it on, it self levels very well. Doesn't scratch off like regular paint can.

Just a thought.
 
chadschoon said:
I'm going to paint my chassis here real soon. I've bought rustolem flat black paint in a gallon. My question is does anyone know if I have to thin it down to spray it out of a gun? I so how much?
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Every paint i've ever dealt with that requires an activator and/or reducer states on the can the mix ratio. 1:1, 4:8:1, whatever it may be. Where did you get the paint and are you sure it can be sprayed out of an automotive spray gun?

Personally i'd throw down some base coat and some clear, pretty cheaply done/ will last longer/ easy to clean.
 
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It's the same stuff out of the rattle can. Rattle cans get expensive when you have to buy so many. Maybe I'll hit up the auto paint store.
 
I sprayed rust-oleum out of a can on my plasma table. I had to thin it a lot more than I thought I would. If it's too thick, it comes out really spotty and not very fast. Once it's thinned the right amount, you'll blow through it like crazy, and it will cover SO SO SO much faster than spray bombs.

Toward the end, once I figured that out, I'll bet I was adding 30% thinner.
 
I could see spraying that thick Rustoleum out of a gun a pia.

Hell, worst case just buy a couple quarts of flat black single stage. I have left over activator and reducer from Strattons trailer that you can use (only the third time i've ever used single stage, BC/CC is where it's at). At least its going to go on nice and even first try, look good, and no rattle can BS.
 
what about that stuff they use on the hulls of large ships, it is almost bullet proof. when my buddy restored his 1967 Xr7 Cougar he used it on the frame, several years later still perfect
 
sparticus19 said:
what about that stuff they use on the hulls of large ships, it is almost bullet proof. when my buddy restored his 1967 Xr7 Cougar he used it on the frame, several years later still perfect
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Was it an epoxy, or was it just a paint of sorts? Any more details on what he used?
 
POR 15

Is not as good as it cracked up to be, Any cheap black paint will work as long as you keep it sealed ( coated no Oxygen or moisture gets to the metal, you will be fine ) Touch up with a can that matches the color is the way to go. But on the other hand if this is a show rig and you have more money than Kim Kardashian go ahead and throw a base coat clear coat. sanding inbetween coats with a 600 grit sandpaper. :laughing:
 
I used POR 15 on a project many years ago that I sold to a friend and it is still like a new coat of paint. Of course this was an older truck with a rusty frame and it needed something more than spray paint, that is when I learned about POR 15. The fact that it can be brushed on is nice for tight areas, but a bare chassis doesn't have that problem!
 
sparticus19 said:
what about that stuff they use on the hulls of large ships, it is almost bullet proof. when my buddy restored his 1967 Xr7 Cougar he used it on the frame, several years later still perfect
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Glyptal?? It's an epoxy-based paint, good stuff. We used it on the lifter valleys for engines, glass-smooth and tough. :D
 
Balls i need to get a hold of my buddy and see if the stuff you guys mentioned is the stuff im talking about either way its super great stuff
 
So, bottom line....since you already own the paint--YES, you'll need to thin it. :) Try a couple test-sprays on a scrap piece of something to get your ratio right. Too thick and you'll know it pretty fast, too thin and it will run easily and not cover as well.
 
I wish I would have just bought a gallon and did it this way. I spent way too much in rattle cans.

Glad to hear you are at the paint phase! We need a thread update soon. ;)
 
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