Painting body armor

George

Registered User
Location
Syracuse, Utah
I have body armor, sliders, and flat fenders to paint. Rattle-can out of the question. Duplicolor "Paint Shop" is a no go per too many have shared with me that the lacquer will not hold its color or shine leaving a faded look. I am not after a show car finish just want it to look nice. My objective is to put down a LOW cost paint (cheap but not trash) that will hold up to the sun, rain, weather, etc...

I have a ventilated place to paint and all necessary equipment. I understand all the metal prep/cleaning. What I don't know, and am looking for first hand experience/knowledge/guidance, are to the following questions:

1. What inexpensive but effective self etching primer (brand suggestion?) should I use? With that what kind of a reducer or thinner should I use (brand)?

2. What inexpensive painting primer (brand?) would you suggest? What reducer or thinner needed?

3. The inexpensive paint (brand & type) you would suggest? Keep in mind ease of use please. Suggested reducer/thinner and hardner?

4. Clearcoat? Hoping to not need one. Ideally a decent paint that will shine up and won't need a clear-coat.

5. Quantity of supplies? Painting armor for two rear quarters, flat fender quarters, rear tire carrier bumper, front bumper with stinger, and long sliders and under door plating (4 door JK).

6. Suggestions where to buy (great prices)? I am located in Roy, so ideally SLC and north.

I appreciate any "holding my hand" help to guide me. I know I have stressed cheap, and do understand this will cost me a couple-few hundred dollars, but I don't want to spend money for say a gold plated connector (show car paint) if the inexpensive cheapo (regular paint job) part will effectively will do the same job.

Thank you.

George
 
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You sound like you're looking for nicer results than I look for in my sliders/armor. There is cheap enamel paint that is somewhat tough at MountainWest Auto Body on 33rd south and about 200 west. I paid about $40 per gallon. It's what's on my Jeep. It's not sexy at all, but looks somewhat "OK" esp. for stuff that is getting rubbed against rocks fairly regularish.

For your JK, you sound like you want something a little nicer. Any acrylic enamel will be reasonably cheap. I would NOT go with a base clear on your rockers/sliders/bumpers, but to each his own. Depends on how often you want to paint it and how you wheel. If it'll only need touch up once/twice a year, get some better paint. If you'll be touching it up 5-6 times per year, get the cheap "industrial enamel" outlined above.

Each paint will differ on how much reducer/thinner etc. by brand. Follow the mfg. guidelines to the letter.

Etching primer is cool and could be useful. I don't use it, but for bare metal on a car I do. I might use it on your quarter protection and maybe your tire carrier. I really don't know if I'd bother on the sliders and bumpers. Get a reputable brand (Sherwin, PPG, etc.) and you should be fine?

There are no auto paint stores in the south Davis county area, unfortunately. If you find one, please post up.

I need to spray my tub interior PDQ (maybe Sat.?) if you want someone to hold your hand. I'd rather do it in a different place than my garage. If I can weasel into the booth for a few minutes after we get your stuff done, I'd be glad to help you out.
 
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Have you considered spraying POR15? I recently sprayed a large steel bumper and was pleased with the outcome. The only trouble I had was spraying a top coat of Rustoleum, since POR15 isn't UV resistant, it will fade, it needs a UV resistant top coat. The Rustoleum ran in a couple spots, because it was much thinner going on than the POR15. My fault for laying the Rustoleum down too thick.

I'm now a huge fan of spraying POR15, it's easy to spray and very forgiving. You dilute it with 5% of their solvent (they say you have to use their stuff, since not all other solvents will work with POR15).


It was somewhat spendy up front, but the quality and toughness is hard to beat. I bought a cheap HVLP spray gun from Harbor Freight for $15 and it sprayed the POR very well. The end result looks great and the paint is very resistant to scratches, rust, etc, etc. I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out and the total cost. Even buying the POR15, POR thinner, spray gun and Rutoleum, I'm probably less than $100 into the paint job and have plenty of left over POR15 for a few other upcoming project.

Perhaps this will help? http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?t=77790&page=2
 
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