- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I could always stretch that front rail out, make the sides sit at a 45* angle to gain a few inches as well. Could limit turning clearance, though. Eh... I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Picked up a trailer
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
I could always stretch that front rail out, make the sides sit at a 45* angle to gain a few inches as well. Could limit turning clearance, though. Eh... I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
D
Deleted member 12904
Guest
I put a 20" Dovetail on my 12' flatbet so I could put the dritbike behind the RZR. It works great and I have used it to load a few cars and it makes it much easier to load cars with the dovetail.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'll get a daylight pic this weekend, when I haul the Willys out to use it.
I'd love a 2' dovetail on this trailer.... I'll still build ramps, but it would be easier to load the Willys w/o them if I had a dovetail. Like I said, we'll see.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I did find the tag for all the information about this trailer.... it's a 2007 Maxey cargo trailer, has a 7,000# GVRW with 3,500# axles.
Been working on the trailer some more, have got quite a bit done in the last few days! I borrowed a 9" grinder from work... that means it gets the job done 2x as fast as a 4.5"! This big Milwaukee it a beast.... it's a lot of work to run, too.
Picked up new tail/brake lights, side marker lights, axle straps, chain, tie downs, etc. I spent quite a bit of time re-wiring it, the old wires were shot! I also added a set of Bearing Buddies to make greasing the hubs easy. I also swapped out the tongue jack, it had one that swung down, but I wanted room on the tongue for a storage box. I'll add something in the near future that I can keep a lug wrench, bottle jack and tie-down gear inside of.
I bought some fancy LED brake lights that have built in reverse lights.... but after wiring them, found that my round 6 plug doesn't have the correct wiring for them to activate.
I started hacking up the side rails so I could salvage some of the angle iron for ramps...
Once the wiring was done, the ramps were built and it was looking 'legal' I loaded up the Willys and took it for a ride! The '95 GMC 2500 does OK with the load, but it's not going to win any races. Around town it takes some work to get up to speed and on the freeway it'll do 75 MPH, but you are working it pretty hard. I didn't intend to keep this truck with the TBI 350, but I think there's a very good chance this truck isn't going to be around much longer. The truck actually stops pretty decent w/o trailer brakes, but I wouldn't want to try an emergency stop. I will be working on adding brakes ASAP.
I do NOT like where the chain it sitting, IMO it's too far out to the side. The Willys stayed tight, but I'd rather have the chain coming to the back of the trailer. I'll weld on some 'C' channel mounts for better attachment points or try wrapping the chain around the rear-most upright. I simply ran the chain over the top of the diff, then under the axle tubes, seemed very secure. The front is similar, I'll add 'C' channel for better tie down points. This was a temporary test, just to try it out. It worked, but the tie-down system needs to be refined.
Been working on the trailer some more, have got quite a bit done in the last few days! I borrowed a 9" grinder from work... that means it gets the job done 2x as fast as a 4.5"!
This big Milwaukee it a beast.... it's a lot of work to run, too.
Picked up new tail/brake lights, side marker lights, axle straps, chain, tie downs, etc. I spent quite a bit of time re-wiring it, the old wires were shot! I also added a set of Bearing Buddies to make greasing the hubs easy. I also swapped out the tongue jack, it had one that swung down, but I wanted room on the tongue for a storage box. I'll add something in the near future that I can keep a lug wrench, bottle jack and tie-down gear inside of.
I bought some fancy LED brake lights that have built in reverse lights.... but after wiring them, found that my round 6 plug doesn't have the correct wiring for them to activate.
I started hacking up the side rails so I could salvage some of the angle iron for ramps...
Once the wiring was done, the ramps were built and it was looking 'legal' I loaded up the Willys and took it for a ride! The '95 GMC 2500 does OK with the load, but it's not going to win any races. Around town it takes some work to get up to speed and on the freeway it'll do 75 MPH, but you are working it pretty hard. I didn't intend to keep this truck with the TBI 350, but I think there's a very good chance this truck isn't going to be around much longer. The truck actually stops pretty decent w/o trailer brakes, but I wouldn't want to try an emergency stop. I will be working on adding brakes ASAP.
I do NOT like where the chain it sitting, IMO it's too far out to the side. The Willys stayed tight, but I'd rather have the chain coming to the back of the trailer. I'll weld on some 'C' channel mounts for better attachment points or try wrapping the chain around the rear-most upright. I simply ran the chain over the top of the diff, then under the axle tubes, seemed very secure. The front is similar, I'll add 'C' channel for better tie down points. This was a temporary test, just to try it out. It worked, but the tie-down system needs to be refined.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Chains are what the cool kids use
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I like a chain in the back, straps in the front.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Build some 'C' channel tie down points for the front of the trailer, went to weld them in place and ran out of gas! I tried some different tie down points, using axle straps on the front axle and moving the chain further back, as discussed above. Seems better, but once I finish welding on the new C channel mounts it'll be a bit stronger than the current setup.
I tried some different tie down points, using axle straps on the front axle and moving the chain further back, as discussed above. Seems better, but once I finish welding on the new C channel mounts it'll be a bit stronger than the current setup.
D
Deleted member 12904
Guest
Seeing the Jeep on that little flat bed really put it in perspective how small the Jeep is. It is such a cool Jeep though .
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Little progress on the trailer... I needed a tool box for trailer-stuff, found a nice lockable 30" wide box that fits great on the tongue. I need to drill some holes and bolt it on. It will hold my jack, lug wrench and all tie-down gear when not in use.
Also noticed that the safety chains had been dragged and some of the links are worn thin enough that I think they'd break if ever needed. I bought some new safety chains and hooks. Will get them added ASAP.
Also noticed that the safety chains had been dragged and some of the links are worn thin enough that I think they'd break if ever needed. I bought some new safety chains and hooks. Will get them added ASAP.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I had that style tongue jack for a minute, until the first time I dropped my tailgate and smashed a dent into it with the jack.
I really like that box though. Looks like room for everything!
I really like that box though. Looks like room for everything!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Well, the 12' trailer worked OK for my needs but I came across a deal I couldn't pass up for a 16' trailer. I found a factory built car hauler with 7k# capacity, trailer brakes, good tires, bearing buddies, etc. It needs a new wood deck, needs to be rewired, needs a new jack, some of the fenders need to be beat back into shape and the rear crossmember needs to be repaired/straightened. I'll add another tool box, add some better tie down options, etc. It's a project, but at least I'll be able to haul bigger vehicles now. The 12' is up for sale!
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
How much for the 12' and hw wide between the rails?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Its listed for $1200.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
That's exactly what I'm hoping to do, I don't mind doing the work to get what I want and save a few dollars on the way.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Well, I tried to sell my fixer-upper 16' car hauler and didn't get anything other than flakes not showing up and low ball offers... so I guess I'll be keeping it and fixing it up! It's a 2007, but has been used hard and abused. I got it for a good price, but after seeing how beat up it was, I feel like I over paid! That's why I was trying to sell it... thinking of spending a little more and buy something new.
I mentioned some of the issues above, but here's the list of what I plan to fix;
Here's some pics of what I'm working with.-
I mentioned some of the issues above, but here's the list of what I plan to fix;
- New deck (bought new 2 x 6 x 16's today)
- Weld up cracks
- Replace jack & mount
- Rewire, get brakes working
- Weld up broken ramp mount
- Straighten bent pieces of frame
- New/straighten out current fenders
- Rebuild rear crossmember (bent & welds torn)
- Replace worn out coupler with new Bulldog piece
- Build new ramps (current ones aren't a match & are very bent), 5' long would be nice
Here's some pics of what I'm working with.-
I just did some work to my ~2002ish trailer and while it sucked at first it’s nice knowing that everything is back in good working order. It’s just one of those things you don’t want to work on but you’re glad you did.
if you want some measurements off a trailer that has a dovetail, let me know and I’ll get you some off mine. The ramps slide in from the sides which can suck if you park too close to something.
if you want some measurements off a trailer that has a dovetail, let me know and I’ll get you some off mine. The ramps slide in from the sides which can suck if you park too close to something.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
If you plan to drive onto the trailer without ramps you should consider adding some drop legs at the rear corners to keep your trailer frame from bending.