Project Built for Towing

[LT.]

It has been a while since I have updated this thread. I now have almost 21,000 miles on her and she is still doing well. The tires were wearing very quickly at first but, they seem to have leveled off now. I am still checking the tread but, they don't seem to be wearing as fast as they were in the beginning. The shocks really do need to be replaced but, I am kind of holding off until I decide what to do about the front suspension. I would really like to have the front end up another inch or so and I can't decide which way to go on it. I have been looking at a system from Thuren Fab lately since they have a 3 1/2" springs and arms. They are also a progressive system which should mean the truck would ride better. I have also been looking at some remote reservoir shocks for the front as well. With the new trailer behind the truck empty I am seeing 16 mpg. The new trailer really is very light at only 2,500 lbs and is 22' long and is rated for 10,000 lbs. I am hoping for an average of 14 mpg on the way to California and back.

Future mods may include the Overdrive software from H&S Performance for the tranny. Mag-Hytec pans for the tranny and rear differential, and maybe even a Snow Performance water/methanol kit to reduce the EGT's and improve mileage. I also really want to have some mud flaps installed on the front and rear like I had on my last dually. A lighted headache rack would also be nice to have.

LT.

 

[LT.]

I have a towing trip planned for this weekend. I will be leaving home and headed for ChestonScout's house towing my new trailer and Christine there. On the way back home I will just have the trailer empty. I should be towing around 10,000 lbs on the way up and only 2,500 lbs on the way back home. I will keep track of the miles, gallons of fuel, and the trip as a whole for y'all. I am hoping for 14 mpg on the way there and 16 or 17 mpg on the way home. We will see if I am correct or not when I get back.

LT.

 

[SLC97SR5]

I really appreciate your updates and willingness to throw money and time at an already capable package!

 

[LT.]

I really appreciate your updates and willingness to throw money and time at an already capable package!

Redneck boredom I fear. This is what happens when you have small genitalia and find the need to upgrade something when there is really nothing wrong with it to begin with.

LT.

 

[LT.]

Okay, so duallys suck in the snow. I only got 11 mpg here and I am now stuck. Can't go forward and can't back up. The front tires will lock up and I loose control.

LT.

 

[LT.]

On the way to my sister in laws house I ended up stuck. Not to sure if y'all are familiar with the area but, you take exit 284 off of I-15. The same exit as Cabela's. After a short while on the Tipanogas highway you turn North again across from the Smiths gas station. The road winds its way up and around the mountains for a while. Her turn off is about three or so miles up that mountain road. I think the road is four or so lanes wide and it is a little steep. I was doing fine and plowing my way through drifts that were a foot to a foot and a half deep and I slowly lost momentum. I was stuck so I could not go forward and backing was scary. I tried to go forward but, the tires started to spin and the truck and trailer would start to slide sideways towards the inside corner (on coming lane). I waited for four hours for a plow truck to show up and none ever did. I ended up backing down the whole way. I could not even use reverse as it would put power to the tires and I would start to slide. So, in neutral I wound my way down. What a trip. I did pull down 11.2 mpg on the way up. I had nasty weather the whole way and some nasty head winds. On the way back home I pulled down 17.5 mpg. But, that was just the trailer with nothing on it.

LT.

 

[LT.]

After this last trip I am starting to think that I may not have been looking at the situation correctly. Perhaps I should be thinking about lowering the drag on the truck and trailer. Maybe I should think about installing a tonneau cover on the bed of the dually. Then I am going to see if anyone makes a free hub kit for the font of the truck. I know they do for single wheel trucks but I have not seen any for the dually yet. Another thought was to put smaller tires on Christine to try to lower the truck down on the trailer. My crummy fuel mileage is mostly due to having bad weather and bad head winds but, if I were to reduce the drag then I would think the weather would make less of a difference.

LT.

 

[LT.]

Also, as of right now I am pondering going to 19.5" wheels and tires or should I stay with the 17's. I need to remember that this is a tow rig first and not a truck that is expected to be driven off road. But, it sure would be nice to have better traction when it snows. But, also more importantly it needs to have the tires last longer than the current ones did. 22,000 miles and my rear duals are pretty much done for. What is odd is the fronts are still in serviceable condition. I guess this is due to the fact that the truck really does pull and haul more than it gets driven empty. So, is it worth going to the 19.5's and dealing with the higher initial cost and poor tracking and the wearing out of the front end parts? Or should I just look at installing 17" tires again and going with a more highway friendly tread, say the Nitto duragrapplers? I would expect higher mileage out of the Nitto's due to the claims they have made. But, then what about the performance when the weather does turn into snow? I have now pulled five times in the snow and have wondered if it would be worth it to go to a more of an all terrain type tread. What would y'all do?

LT.

 

[LT.]

Time for another update. The truck has just over 24,000 miles on her at this point and I suspect that 18,000 of those miles have been towing or hauling. As with any rig that sees this kind of use She has started to develop an issue. BFT has done a remarkable job at everything it has been asked to do. After researching tires and wheels until I was blue in the face it looks like 17" wheels will be staying on her. I also think I have decided on tires but, as many of y'all know I change my mind all too frequently. I have started to feel a bit of death wobble developing on the front end. Nothing that the truck can't recover from without any input from me. I don't have to hit the brakes and slow down or anything like that but, I can feel it trying to start while at highway speeds and hitting some expansion joints in the road surface. I have researched the problem and read plenty. It sounds like on the fourth gens that the steering box sector shaft could really use some more support. I have checked the sector shaft on my truck and this seems to be the case. A simple steering box brace is all it will take and I hope that solves the problem. Cheap fix at any rate.

While researching the death wobble fix I found that the 3rd gens usually need a track bar upgrade. While the 4th gens usually need the steering box brace. Just in case anyone else runs into this same problem.

I hope that my next payday I can get the steering box brace. They usually run under $200.00 and it should take somewhere between 20 and 40 minutes to install. I will report back as soon as I get it and get it installed.

LT.

 

[skippy]

My third gen needs a new steering box and I think I will install a brace at the same time to prolong the life of the new one.

 

[LT.]

My third gen needs a new steering box and I think I will install a brace at the same time to prolong the life of the new one.

Yep, it should for sure.

On a side note, I am not entirely convinced I have a death wobble problem. I do get some front end issues when crossing an expansion joint or something similar on the highway but, it does settle itself down within a second or so. I also can't see the tires going from side to side. I am starting to think it maybe a front shock issue. When I put the 2" kit on the front I did not extend the front shocks. I am wondering if I have a blown shock or two up front.

This also brings up another issue. The truck is needing tires soon so, what should I put on her? I am horrible about making up my mind. At one time I was convinced I needed 19.5" wheels and tires. I have changed my mind again because the truck does not really get driven very much. It would be a shame to spend so much money on 19.5" wheels and tires just to have the tires dry rot under the truck. Then I also thought I should put on some high mileage tires like a Nitto Dura Grappler. Again, it would suck to have a tire on her that is going to dry rot from lack of use. Now, I am thinking about running an all terrain or maybe even a mud terrain tire on her. The reason I am thinking this now is because I got stuck in January, February, and in March. Y'all will remember me being stuck in March. I was in Utah trying to drop off Christine at Cheston's house and I was stuck on the way to my sister in laws house. She lives behind Cabela's and I was stuck in the middle of a four lane road going up a steep hill. January and February I was stuck in the mud. I am seriously considering using some Toyo Open Country MT's for Rosie because I am so impressed with them under Betty (project run a round).

So, what size should I go with? I loved the way my old 35" tires worked under my old dually. I am thinking of going back to that size on Rosie.

LT.

 

[ChestonScout]

be a man and run 38s on your tow rig! HA

 

[LT.]

38's huh? If I run 38's that is gonna cut into your labor fund. Lol. Remember I need six to seven tires instead of your four to five. I really don't think I have the funds or the energy to hop into a truck with suck big rubber.

LT.

 

[LT.]

Okay y'all. I am starting to wonder about the whole tire size change and the gear ratio change. I am hoping y'all can help me get my head around the idea. For now the truck has 3.73 gears and 235-80-17 tires. According to my math (oh boy here we go) if I change to 35" tires I would need 4.10 gears to bring the engine back into its proper operating range. I figured this by multiplying 35X3.73. Then divided it by the 31.8 which is the stock height of the stock tires. If so, and I change to 35" tires and the 4.10 gears then, would the speedometer and the odometer be correct again? Would the tranny shift points be back where they were stock? Now, how about if I do the 35" tires but, decide on changing the gears to 4.56's? That would make the engine rev a little higher while driving down the road but, what about the tranny shift points, speedometer/odometer, and the ABS?

As always, thank you in advance.

LT.

 

[Marsh99]

Okay y'all. I am starting to wonder about the whole tire size change and the gear ratio change. I am hoping y'all can help me get my head around the idea. For now the truck has 3.73 gears and 235-80-17 tires. According to my math (oh boy here we go) if I change to 35" tires I would need 4.10 gears to bring the engine back into its proper operating range. I figured this by multiplying 35X3.73. Then divided it by the 31.8 which is the stock height of the stock tires. If so, and I change to 35" tires and the 4.10 gears then, would the speedometer and the odometer be correct again? Would the tranny shift points be back where they were stock? Now, how about if I do the 35" tires but, decide on changing the gears to 4.56's? That would make the engine rev a little higher while driving down the road but, what about the tranny shift points, speedometer/odometer, and the ABS?

As always, thank you in advance.

LT.

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

 

[sixstringsteve]

don't forget that bigger tires are heavier than regular tires. All that extra rotational mass will put an additional load on the motor. with an engine as big as yours it won't be HUGE, but you'll still feel it. You'll want to go a bit lower than what would put the odometer/speedo back to stock.

 

[Unimog]

If so, and I change to 35" tires and the 4.10 gears then, would the speedometer and the odometer be correct again?

If the speedo sensor is on the tranny, then yes. If it is at the wheel, then no.

 

[LT.]

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Whoa. That is a wealth of information right there. Thank you very much.

don't forget that bigger tires are heavier than regular tires. All that extra rotational mass will put an additional load on the motor. with an engine as big as yours it won't be HUGE, but you'll still feel it. You'll want to go a bit lower what would put the odometer/speedo back to stock.

Okay, so I am guessing then that the 4.10 with 35's is the exact equivalent to the 235's and the 3.73's. This would make everything work just like it does stock. Thanks y'all for all your help.

LT.

 

[LT.]

If the speedo sensor is on the tranny, then yes. If it is at the wheel, then no.

I am going to have to look into this more. I can't remember where the sensor is. Thanks for the help.

LT.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I meant to say, you're going to want to gear it lower than what it would take to match the speedo to stock. so if 4.10's put the speedo at stock, think about going the next size lower. You're just factoring in the diameter of the tire, not the extra weight that it's turning. If you run 4.10s, it'll feel like you're pulling an empty trailer around everywhere due to the extra weight of turning these big tires. Not sure if that makes sense.