Project: Cheap! But still OK.
- Thread starter I Lean
- Start date
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
You know a 5.3 will fit pretty nicely where that 4.3 is and everything will hook right up.
Sounds dangerous to things downstream.....like a 4L60e.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Yup. Easy peasy. One day swap. 😂
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
and tires.Sounds dangerous to things downstream.....like a 4L60e.
Spork
Tin Foil Hat Equipped
- Location
- Saratoga Springs, UT
Stock weight is around 3k pounds, unless all your add-ons bring that number way up the 4L60e might survive...
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
4,400 at muddy curb weight.Stock weight is around 3k pounds, unless all your add-ons bring that number way up the 4L60e might survive...
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
The S-series 4L60E is a weaker than the V8 version, so it would be wise to swap in a V8 trans at the same time.
But I fully support this idea! Deals on 5.3's are out there, my last one was $500 for a running, aluminum block engine w/ high miles.
But I fully support this idea! Deals on 5.3's are out there, my last one was $500 for a running, aluminum block engine w/ high miles.
I FINALLY got some time to work on this thing a little bit! Over the last few days, I've put in about 4 hours' worth of work on it. Rear axle is removed and sold, front suspension is out just about ready for chopping. I also started working on eliminating another couple of sources of oil leak, namely the remote oil filter and oil cooler lines.
Here's some evidence of oil leaks. This whole area was caked--either from the driver's side CV shaft leaking and slinging oil, or from the remote oil filter adapter. Either way, it will be fixed right now. (I'm putting the filter right on the block where the adapter is in this pic)
The front end stuff. If ANY of this stuff is useful to anyone, let me know.
I also started working on eliminating another couple of sources of oil leak, namely the remote oil filter and oil cooler lines.
Here's some evidence of oil leaks. This whole area was caked--either from the driver's side CV shaft leaking and slinging oil, or from the remote oil filter adapter. Either way, it will be fixed right now. (I'm putting the filter right on the block where the adapter is in this pic)
The front end stuff. If ANY of this stuff is useful to anyone, let me know.
I got most of the front suspension bracketry cut off -- no pics of that since it's just rough-cut for now, it needs some cleanup trimming and then grinding before it's ready for front stuff. You can actually see some of it in the following pic:
I also built a replacement transmission crossmember. The factory one was bent, plus I need a beefier one since this will also be the base for the front suspension.
I also got the little threaded oil filter adapter I've been waiting for, so now there is a filter on the block and it's ready to fill with oil again.
I also built a replacement transmission crossmember. The factory one was bent, plus I need a beefier one since this will also be the base for the front suspension.
I also got the little threaded oil filter adapter I've been waiting for, so now there is a filter on the block and it's ready to fill with oil again.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Great work Carl. Lookin' good.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
More content please. 😉
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
Turning out pretty cool so far.
The pitman arm is dumb.
Grind the top lip away until the cap can be popped off:
Here's the insides:
Make a thing. Yes, the surface finish is that bad.
All the ugliness goes away when it gets pressed in:
....and welded. The hole is just a straight-through 9/16" for now, it will get tapered later for a tie rod end, or whatever ends up there.
Here it is back on the box. I initially tried a YJ pitman arm I have laying around, but the extra drop was a no-go, it hit the diff far too early. Even with this one, it will be a toss-up which will limit the uptravel first--the pitman arm, or the frame where the pinion yoke will hit.
Here's where the axle is sitting now. It's still a couple inches away from full bump here, but I need to make some sort of links between the truck and the axle before I go any further. Also, I'm thinking the leaf springs will probably give WAY too much lift in spring-over configuration. We'll see where the front ride height is able to end up before committing to an alternate idea. I can delete the overload leaf to drop it 1/2" to start with....
Grind the top lip away until the cap can be popped off:
Here's the insides:
Make a thing. Yes, the surface finish is that bad.
All the ugliness goes away when it gets pressed in:
....and welded. The hole is just a straight-through 9/16" for now, it will get tapered later for a tie rod end, or whatever ends up there.
Here it is back on the box. I initially tried a YJ pitman arm I have laying around, but the extra drop was a no-go, it hit the diff far too early. Even with this one, it will be a toss-up which will limit the uptravel first--the pitman arm, or the frame where the pinion yoke will hit.
Here's where the axle is sitting now. It's still a couple inches away from full bump here, but I need to make some sort of links between the truck and the axle before I go any further. Also, I'm thinking the leaf springs will probably give WAY too much lift in spring-over configuration. We'll see where the front ride height is able to end up before committing to an alternate idea. I can delete the overload leaf to drop it 1/2" to start with....