• RME Gear & Apparel

Project suiSUKi

suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
97wrangler said:
Looks awesome. Wish I had that kind of skill but until then I will just keep screwing up and trying again. Keep up with the great pics.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys,

What do you think I do? Seems like most everything is getting done/redone at least twice.

Which means it should turn out twice as nice right.;)
 
suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Well the two 10" fans came in so I installed them for fitment, I hooked them up to a battery pack and was suprized they aren't very loud even with the hi-efficiancy blades.

P1010401.jpg
 
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suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Time to make some things happen in the rear, I cut the tub off and set it aside and lopped the frame off at the top of the bend.

P1010383.jpg


P1010382.jpg
 
JRYOTA

JRYOTA

Member
suisuki said:
I'll second what RockMonkey said.
I chose the 4 link double Tri cause it has vertually no rear steer and is highly tuneable and I like the clearance on the lowers when they mount to the center.
3-link plus PH front is cause I'm using a gearbox for steering so I needed a Panhard(so dualXX is out) and I don't like radius arm type setup, and the 3-link +PH won't binde like a 4-link + PH would
Click to expand...

ok thanks guys. now what is a good for that upper third link? i see you have one straight arm on the pass. side, but i have also seen a kind of triang. upper that has one axle mount and two frame mounts, that make sense?
 
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suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Well 2"s narrower wasn't enough to clear the shocks at full twist, I could only get 16" down before contacting the frame or the tire sooo....
P1010421.jpg

notched the frame
P1010422.jpg

all done
P1010424.jpg

now I have lots of clearence, this is at full twist 6"s up and 18"s down.
P1010435.jpg

P1010431.jpg
 
suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
While I was notching it I decided to shorten the frame extension to 12"s cause I didn't like how the bumper was out past the tires or how the body was looking
here's before the notch @ 14"s of extension
P1010412.jpg

and here's after the notch @ 12"s of extension, now the tires stick out past the bumper.
P1010438.jpg
 
suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
crimsonride said:
Yeah baby! Now you can depart from virtually virtical cliffs without any hangups whatsoever!
Click to expand...

Ya I guess. My concern was more with climbing up nearly vertical steps and having the rear bumper hang up on the rock my axle just barley cleared.

You remember my last attempt on the waterfall on constricter right?
soon as I would get half way up my wheelie bar/bumper would kick in and lift the rear tires and push the front back down.

That rear bumper will be alot closer to the ground when climbing a waterfall but should clear fine up to near vertical.:)
 
suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Well I ended up having to work all day yesterday so I didn't get much done but I did make a ghetto angle finder tube mount tool so I can now track tube rotation and make bends that are not in the same plane.
P1010446.jpg
 
suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
And since I now had the tool I put it to work making some sliders. The ends are out of plane with each other. The front bends down and attaches at the upper link bracket, the rear bends in level and attaches at the rear frame fishplates.
P1010448.jpg


Can you guess where the lower part of the rear body panel will attach?

P1010449.jpg
 
Bart

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
Love it. That is a kewl Sami. I'd be adding a haus fairlead up front though. those rollers won't last long there.
 
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