suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
It steers!

I got the gear box mounted, shortened up the drag link, pulled the Rag end u-joint out of my donar lengthend the shaft and bolted it all up and now when you turn the wheel it turns :cool:
 
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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Sleeved the frame for the gearbox mount bolts

Pic prior to welding
P1010352.jpg


I cut the sami steer shaft then sleeved the inside with 5/8ths rod and welded it up straight.
P1010354.jpg
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Then sleeved the entire shaft with some 1.25x.120 tube and welded it all up, and installed.
P1010355.jpg


I had to clearance the radiator a bit to get the u-joint to clear, I'm using the sami gearbox piece at the end of the column shaft ('cause you can bolt a toy rag-joint end u-joint to it), then the regular sami joint, If/when I come across another rag end toy u-joint I'll swap out that little zuk joint for the Toy one.
P1010356.jpg


I also got started on the winch mount and rad positioning........gonna be tight!
 
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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Fabbed up the winch mount/radiator skidplate todday, used 1/4 plate and 1x1x120 square tube (to space the winch and rad down 1")
Also cleaned up and repainted my Warn
P1010361.jpg

underside
P1010365.jpg
 
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Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
I don't think you really have a repair business, I think that thats your excuse for the wife. That way you can work on this 24/7;) Coming along good, I'm just jealous
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
You know I just really enjoy fabbing stuff and I find that you make time for the things you enjoy.

I've been coming into the shop 2hrs early every morning and working on it before I open up the shop, and the wife gives me one late night a week and Saturdays, adds up to like 20hrs a week so thats what makes things happen gotta make the time.

That being said, man is it hard to focus on my work sometimes with that thing sitting there. Work before play.
 

Slangy

Sgt. CulPepper
Location
Utah
Looks awesome. Wish I had that kind of skill but until then I will just keep screwing up and trying again. Keep up with the great pics.
 
Location
Murray
Looks awesome. Wish I had that kind of skill but until then I will just keep screwing up and trying again. Keep up with the great pics.

I hear ya there. I have the luxury/curse of building my junk next to Ryans (thanks to a very generous friend that puts up with much mooching). I suck at fab and it's become very apparent now that Ryan has decided to pick it back up. Thanks alot Ryan.:mad:
 
Location
Murray
So Ryan, looking at the pictures of it with the back end not stretched and having seen it not I think I like the look of it now much better.
 

JRYOTA

Member
I love your zuk:) i have two questions. 1:Are you still using ac compressor for onboard air? if so, will you post up how you did/going to do this? 2:Why did you do a 3link+panhard in the front? i seem to see a lot of people doing a dual tri'd 4link on rear but never up front, any certain reason why? and what seems to be the best kind of link suspension for front end? whats best for rear end?
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Why did you do a 3link+panhard in the front? i seem to see a lot of people doing a dual tri'd 4link on rear but never up front, any certain reason why? and what seems to be the best kind of link suspension for front end? whats best for rear end?

Dual triangulated four links work great in the front if (1) the engine doesn't interfere with the links, and (2) you have full hydraulic steering. If you have a drag link you will get funky steering with a triangulated four link since the axle pivots around a different center than the drag link. The way to eliminate undesirable steering artifacts is to make a suspension with a track bar that is the same length and at the same angle as the drag link. If you make a triangulated four link and add a track bar to force it to travel in the same arc as the drag link, you end up with lots of binding and something will break.
 
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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
I'll second what RockMonkey said.
I chose the 4 link double Tri cause it has vertually no rear steer and is highly tuneable and I like the clearance on the lowers when they mount to the center.
3-link plus PH front is cause I'm using a gearbox for steering so I needed a Panhard(so dualXX is out) and I don't like radius arm type setup, and the 3-link +PH won't binde like a 4-link + PH would
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
I am planning on using the A/c Compressor allthough I've only read about it so this will be a first I'll let you know how it turns out
 
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