question:

[BlackDog]

Rig: IFS Toy Van
Equipment: Driverside drop front dif and obviouslt t/t-case

Problem: Want to straight axle with 4.88's and 33's. Have heard much bad (don't know if its founded) about a Dana 35 if you go larger tired and geared from a Cherokee or the like, and Toy 8" is pass drop.

Posssible Solution: Have Noticed that a Sammi is pass drop, and has a divorced t-case

Question: Will a Sammi t-case hold up to 120 hp and 135 ft lbs of torq when used in a doubler application with 4.88's axle gearing and stock t-case gearing in both cases, at first anyway. and 32/33's on the other end, with at least the rear diff of the rig locked?

Or will I be better off with a Dana 35 and single transfer with my 4.88 and 32/33 combo?

Which will be least likely to grenade?

(and we are not sure if my engine shares the 22r bolt pattern, or problem would be MUCH simpler)

 

[mbryson]

Dana 35 is a rear axle. So unless you're putting a rear axle in the front and never planning on turning, you should be thinking of something else.

I'm betting you're thinking a Dana 30 which is not the most desireable axle in the world, but they are cheap and plentiful. They're kinda cute, but for their size, they hold up fairly well up to 33" tires. I ran my Dana 30 with 4.88 gears, 35" tires and an ARB for at least 2 years. The 35" were a little much for it, but I just carried spare shafts (and a set of ball joints) and fixed it when it broke or just before it did. With your 33" tires, I think it's a OK option and I bet the width is pretty close to your van. HINT: D30 axles DO NOT like high speed, bumpy runs. They tend to bend housings.

Are toy pickup axles out of the picture and if so why? I bet it's not ultra-difficult to keep it all Toyota.

 

[BlackDog]

Dana 35 is a rear axle. So unless you're putting a rear axle in the front and never planning on turning, you should be thinking of something else.

I'm betting you're thinking a Dana 30 which is not the most desireable axle in the world, but they are cheap and plentiful. They're kinda cute, but for their size, they hold up fairly well up to 33" tires. I ran my Dana 30 with 4.88 gears, 35" tires and an ARB for at least 2 years. The 35" were a little much for it, but I just carried spare shafts (and a set of ball joints) and fixed it when it broke or just before it did. With your 33" tires, I think it's a OK option and I bet the width is pretty close to your van. HINT: D30 axles DO NOT like high speed, bumpy runs. They tend to bend housings.

Are toy pickup axles out of the picture and if so why? I bet it's not ultra-difficult to keep it all Toyota.

Yeah, I read other tech articles, and noticed that I shoulda typed 30, even thought about an edit.
Toy axles are the desired, even owned a 81 p/u for a donor for a while.
That is the whole point, I want to keep it mostly Toy, but I am driver side drop, and the toy p/u are pass drop, and I don't have the cool common 22r, I have the 4y which is the forklift motr, awwesome torq and I love it, but I believe different bolt pattern than the 22r, which makes for an unmateable transmission swap.
Which is where a divorceable t-case comes into play, which leads us to the Sammi part of the question.

And if they are weaker than a 30, (understanding that one is a t-case, and one an axle, but the inherent strength of each component is the point of comparison) I will just run the 30, and have an o.k. wheeler, knowing full well going into this that my rig will never be an fj-40, rolling on 40's, etc. etc. etc. that isn't the expected result, just want a little more off road capability than I currently posess.

And it does fine, there is not an IFS open diff rig that it can't keep up with, and sometimes surpass due to the sheer nature of its dimunitve size, awesome c/g, weight transfer, etc. but........................... more is always better.

 

[BlackDog]

slight change of pace, gonna (if and when I do) give it more hgorse in the form of a new cherry.

Which takes me to world of pass pinion.

Found a 78ish Ramcharger today, with 12 bolt differential, only description I have, 5/4.5 bolt pattern, and "hubless" if you will,

Have been told these are d-44,

question 1 what is the likely hood that they are d-44, and how do I ascertain that for a surety?

question 2 have heard that they have weak outers, does that mean the hubless part, or what?

question 3, is $100 for the complete ass. with leafs, a smokin' deal, or average?

question 4 they also have a 78ish 1/2 ton shtbx chevvvy with a similar looking 12 bolt pumpkin, and unsure of the front, would that be a 44 rear and corporate 10bolt in the front?

actual live hubs on the chebby as well.

would it (hub thing notwithstanding, looking for an overall objective opinion here) be a better choice than the dodge 44 (if that is what they are)?

 

[mbryson]

I'd grab some Chev parts or Waggy (found in driver AND passenger drop--year related-'81-91=drivers drop {avoid the disconnect axle}, '80 and older=passenger drop) before the 5 on 4.5" Dodge stuff. Sounds like it's full of issues about parts availability and strength (from a thread on here a while ago).

 

[BlackDog]

Solution for SFA woes: 1988 Diesel Suburban 1/2 ton, $500 less than the 85 runner I was looking at, bourbon was more logical as I seat 6 and a Lab.

Picking up what was formerly known as a K5 next weekend, corporate 14 bolt front and rear, dual shocked all 4 corners, 4.10's and locked in the tushy, for $400.

Then I will have a psuedo 3/4 ton, the gears I need for hauling, and a locker to boot.


Ohhh......... and I talked to Marlin can't speel it but THE Marlin, anyway, I coulda just ran a g54 out of a Toy p/u, runner, and swapped bell housings and been fine. Found one in Portland, already Marlin'ed for $450, good deal for a dual t-cased g series, I thought.

 

[mbryson]

.........corporate 14 bolt front and rear........

60 outers on the 14 front?

 

[BlackDog]

New world to me , this Chevy/GMC thing.

What exactly does that mean, is the question, does it have 8 lugs? Then Yes.
If that is more technical than that, then I will try to enclose pics and go from there.

 

[mbryson]

New world to me , this Chevy/GMC thing.

What exactly does that mean, is the question, does it have 8 lugs? Then Yes.
If that is more technical than that, then I will try to enclose pics and go from there.

Your front is probably a 10 bolt. Could be a D44.

 

[BlackDog]

ok.

So, then all I am gaining out of this front axle wise is the 4.10 gearing?

Right?

And the rear, looks to be a floater to me, so that makes it altleast a 14 bolt, whcih is stronger than the 44 right?
And the locker, scared it is lincoln locked, not that that bothers me so much, but woulda hoped for a real live locker, with the 4 ten gears, and the 3/4 ton springs, is still an ok deal for the $400 + $40 in fuel that it will take to fetch it right?

Plus it still has the tranny, t-case, so, can part cab (if straight as it appears) tranny(either to part to save as replacement for the 700 r4 when it shits the bed), keep the t-case, provided it is the same as/mateable to mine for eventually doubling applications, and have a block that is rebuildable for when my injectiuon pump shits the bed, right?

 

[mbryson]

ok.

So, then all I am gaining out of this front axle wise is the 4.10 gearing? Is this just an axle/parts swap for the Sub?

Right?

Probably. It's not a bad axle, just not a good one. It's serviceable at worst until you get something else. Probably pretty reliable until you get bigger tires than 35".

And the rear, looks to be a floater to me, so that makes it altleast a 14 bolt, whcih is stronger than the 44 right?
And the locker, scared it is lincoln locked, not that that bothers me so much, but woulda hoped for a real live locker, with the 4 ten gears, and the 3/4 ton springs, is still an ok deal for the $400 + $40 in fuel that it will take to fetch it right?

That's a HUGE b!tch, but TOUGH. Their major drawback is the size and weight. I shaved the big lip off mine in the Jeep. It should help, but it's still HUGE.

Plus it still has the tranny, t-case, so, can part cab (if straight as it appears) tranny(either to part to save as replacement for the 700 r4 when it shits the bed), keep the t-case, provided it is the same as/mateable to mine for eventually doubling applications, and have a block that is rebuildable for when my injectiuon pump shits the bed, right?

I'd rebuild the 700. It's a decent piece. Nothing wrong with a diesel offroad, but it's not a light setup. I know next to nothing about diesels and even less about 6.2L/6.5L GM. I've heard everything about them, good/bad/mileage=good/can't tow/boat anchor/etc., but don't have any experience with them. The 208(?) that's probably behind the 700 is not a bad case, but not a doubler candidate as far as I know. You'd be looking for a 203 mated to either a 465 or T350 and then add a 205 and doubler kit. KEWL, but kinda heavy.


There's nothing wrong with a Toy with a Marlin. Probably a better choice unless you like wheeling a fullsize. Some do, some don't. Maybe it doesn't matter to you?

 

[BlackDog]

So, I think I understand that :

A: I am not getting hurt on this
B: I am getting a functional 3/4 ton
C: I only plan to run 35/12.5/16.5's ( local schwab has a killer deal on a used set right now),(or if I majucally drop elenty million dollars out my rectum, they have a killer deal on 17" aluminum Ultra's, and new 315/70/17's Hankooks) so I will have the strength to run that, and I have no intention to go larger than that on this rig, or need to, from what I have read on trail rating I "can't" run anything larger than a 2.5 or 3 if I want to preserve my marriage.
D: Little grey here, but....... since you qouted what I wrote, I think that I will have the t-case to eventually double mine.

Cool.

Heh. Cliford the Monster Dawg coming up.

 

[mbryson]

So, I think I understand that :

A: I am not getting hurt on this
B: I am getting a functional 3/4 ton
C: I only plan to run 35/12.5/16.5's ( local schwab has a killer deal on a used set right now),(or if I majucally drop elenty million dollars out my rectum, they have a killer deal on 17" aluminum Ultra's, and new 315/70/17's Hankooks) so I will have the strength to run that, and I have no intention to go larger than that on this rig, or need to, from what I have read on trail rating I "can't" run anything larger than a 2.5 or 3 if I want to preserve my marriage.
D: Little grey here, but....... since you qouted what I wrote, I think that I will have the t-case to eventually double mine.

Cool.

Heh. Cliford the Monster Dawg coming up.

Ah, you'll be fine running trails harder than 3. Once you get to 4, the Sub will be kinda big/heavy. 3.5 won't be an issue, though.

 

[BlackDog]

I'd rebuild the 700. It's a decent piece.

There's nothing wrong with a Toy with a Marlin. Probably a better choice unless you like wheeling a fullsize. Some do, some don't. Maybe it doesn't matter to you?

Agreed on the 700, I like it, have liked them, they just like to be rebuilt from what I understand.

I LOVED wheeling Toy, especially my Toy, but it is now in the process of being recycled. (I crushed it).

So gonna wheel the full size til I can pick up a 4o, then will tote the 40 with the full size.

The issue with running harder than a 2.5 or 3, had nothing to do with capabilities of rig, but more to do with the "bitchathim" factor coming from the navigator/co-pilot/better half/reluctant spotter/ wife person