ram mounting w/high steer- best option?

[Tacoma]

So I finally have nearly everything together for high steer on a Chevy 60, finishing up the box rebuild/porting this weekend hopefully and shazam, done.

The tierod's new location is about a mile higher than the stock location, and while that's great for protection, it doesn't do much for the ram mount. Chevy 60's come from the factory with a sweet ram mount (they call it a "steering stabilizer" mount, whatEVER ) but this location is now useless.

So, the options are:

1. weld tabs to the 1" thick spring plates Redd made Probably a bad idea, but worth discussing for the sake of discussion.

2. Tabs to the plate diff cover I have yet to order. This seems like a tried and tested method... and it's easyish. Con? Leaves the ram in space to get smacked.

3. have a mount fabbed to weld to the axle tube. This presents mostly the issue of making a tallish tower strong enough to handle the load without looking retarded and/or hitting anything-- it would be mounted behind the tierod, roughly directly above the tube... Protects the ram nicely though.

Discuss what you've done or seen and why you love it more than the other options.

 

[choptopbII]

I've seen alot of people run em' from the diff cover to the tie rod on the 60's and it seems to work just fine.

 

[richpblaze]

This is what I did.

Not the greatest pic, you can come buy and look at if you are in town.

 

[1995zj]

Wait, are we talking full-hydro ram? I was thinking hydro-assist....at least that's what I got from your description?

 

[I Lean]

He's not doing full hydraulic though, just assist. (I think....am I right Tacoma?)

I don't mind coming off the diff cover really, but it does increase the risk of leakage at some point--plus it makes it more of a pain if you need to remove said cover. Ubolt plate should be fine as well, but the most solid and permanent solution is the tower off the axle tube. Naturally, that's also the most work to accomplish.

 

[jevyguy]

On my Chev d60 I swapped knuckles from right to left so that the factory tie rod mounts were on the back of the axle. That way I mounted my ram on the back side of the axle and used the factory tie rod mount to hook my ram to. This way the ram is protected and there isn't as much stress on the tie rod ends. Works great for me with no negative side effects.

 

[LT.]

I am in the same situation as you, Tacoma. I had called Off Road Design for all my cross over steering parts and my high steer parts. Steven Watson told me at the time that he had a bracket that would weld to the axle that will work for just this kind of steering set up. It may be worth a call. Here is the contact information for you. http://www.offroaddesign.com/contact.htm

I hope this helps you.

LT.

 

[richpblaze]

Maybe I should learn how to read.

My bad.

 

[cheepin]

On my Chev d60 I swapped knuckles from right to left so that the factory tie rod mounts were on the back of the axle. That way I mounted my ram on the back side of the axle and used the factory tie rod mount to hook my ram to. This way the ram is protected and there isn't as much stress on the tie rod ends. Works great for me with no negative side effects.
View attachment 51489

How do the brakes work this way?Any issues with them being mounted in front?Why not just get a double arm?

 

[jevyguy]

How do the brakes work this way?Any issues with them being mounted in front?Why not just get a double arm?

The brakes work the same on the front or back... How does a caliper tell the difference when dealing with a round disc? I had to change my brake lines a bit, but that was all.
I guess you could get a double arm, but I already was using regular hi-steer arms. I am cheap, and decided to go for it. It drives and brakes the same as it always has. Besides that I dont have to mess with the ram hitting the tie rod, or raming it into a rock or anything. If my front end was linked I would run into problems, so I can see why it wouldn't work in every situation.
I actually have more assist now because the factory tie rod mounts make the ram use more of its stroke then before. I use almost all of the 8" stroke

 

[Tacoma]

He's not doing full hydraulic though, just assist. (I think....am I right Tacoma?)

I don't mind coming off the diff cover really, but it does increase the risk of leakage at some point--plus it makes it more of a pain if you need to remove said cover. Ubolt plate should be fine as well, but the most solid and permanent solution is the tower off the axle tube. Naturally, that's also the most work to accomplish.

You are correct, Carl. I'm going to take another look at mounting that off the Ubolt plate... I was thinking maybe that would place undue stress on... something you wouldn't want undue stress on... but now that I'm thinking about it I'm not sure it can.

the main issue with the particulars of my vehicle is that it looks like any tabs on the diff cover will be on either side of a bolt, which irritates me for several reasons.

The tower would of course need fabbing and I'd have to like, think about it and stuff. Boo!

the bracket ORD used to sell, if it's the one I'm thinking of, would cost more to ship here than it would to just make my own. Stephen is very helpful though, and I've got to talk to him about some other stuff anyway, I'll ask what he's talking about and check it out though.

My bad.

That's alright Rich, you keep working at it!! I do want to check that out though, for the stagnant and festering M715.

 

[BEACH]

If looks are a concern. Cut a temp. bracket out of cardboard and bring it down to the shop. We can plas out anything you want on our plas table for more than a fair price!!

I would not personally ever mount the ram on my spring plate! If your u-bolts or on a chevy if the two threaded bolts on the passenger inside come loose at all that could result in a broken center pin or even worse no steering out on the trail!!

 

[Tacoma]

If looks are a concern. Cut a temp. bracket out of cardboard and bring it down to the shop. We can plas out anything you want on our plas table for more than a fair price!!

Why, that's right! you guys have a sweet table. Duly noted.

I would not personally ever mount the ram on my spring plate! If your u-bolts or on a chevy if the two threaded bolts on the passenger inside come loose at all that could result in a broken center pin or even worse no steering out on the trail!!

Intuitively, that seems like a bad idea to me. I haven't really considered the physics of it, but snapping the center pin is actuallly the first thing that popped into my head--"Hmmmm these plates are beefy and in a good spot but that's gotta be a bad idea... maybe it would shear the center pin..."
Having had to limp home from the far side of the Pony Express trail with a busted center pin, I reeeeaaally don't want to do that again.

 

[mbryson]

Mine's on the diff cover. I don't hate it, but I'm getting there (leaky cover)....trying one last time with gasket sealant and if that doesn't work, I'll be fabbing a bracket to the axle tube.

 

[notajeep]

My buggy has the ram mounted to a tower on the axle tube and then goes behind the axle to a double arm. Its out off the way of everything and works great.

You can kinda see the axle end of it here. I just used some 1/4 plate and boxed it in.

 

[notajeep]

Here is a little better look ay my set up. I realize you are just going assist and not full hydro, but because I run a single ended ram, it should be the same. Now, if you dont want to buy a new steering arm. Ill trade you my pass side one for yours. Problem solved.

 

[Tacoma]

Got any more pics? Give me a call. 435.224.2453

 

[notajeep]

 

[notajeep]

 

[Tacoma]

ahhhhhh I gotcha now. Pm your number, I'll take a look at my veeehickle in the morning.