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Re-drill ford D44 8-lug to 5-lug

H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
I've searched for info on this on this site as well as Pirate 4x4 and am not able to get any definite answers. :(

I'm wondering: Can a Dana 44 Ford 8-lug be re-drilled to accept a 5 on 5.5 pattern? Anybody had any experience with this and could somebody refer me to someone who can do the work?

Also, are there any caliper clearance problems when mounting a 15" diameter wheel on this axle?

thanks!:)
 
Hickey

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Location
Grantsville, Utah
You might be able to redrill it, and you would need to grind the calipers for a 15" rim. Why not just get the 1/2 ton parts and bolt them on?
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
Well, the problem seems to be that I have flat-top knuckles that interfere with the mounting location of the 1/2-ton calipers.:(
 
troutbum

troutbum

cubi-kill
Location
SLC
I assume you are talking about the front? Ford and Scout have 5x5.5 D44, I *believe* that the ford splindles and hubs will bolt on to Chev knuckles.

So find an F150 with a D44 front and take everything from the spindles out, then you will have stronger internal hubs as well. Plus now you can buy replacement parts without a lot of fab work
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
It has discs. The problem seems to be clearance between the knuckle and the location of the caliper. The 1/2-ton knuckle has a recess to fit the 1/2-ton brakes (caliper location) that the 3/4-ton knuckle does not.
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
from what I can tell, it would require some heavy grinding on the knuckle that would probably weaken it. I have a solution -- I found some supercab flat-top knuckles that fit the 1/2-ton brakes. They're out of state and I could have them shipped, but I was hoping that somebody would tell me "don't bother -- they can be redrilled, I've done it with success..." This would save me the cost of hubs, rotors, backing plates, knuckles, shipping.....I figure it'd only cost about 1/3 if I have them re-drilled.
 
B

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
If you still need to buy everything (I thought you already had ford 1/2ton spindle, hubs and brakes). I would look into chevy/full size Jeep flattop knuckles and brakes and ford hub and rotors. there was a vendor on pirate selling brand new knuckles with brand new balljoints for around $100. Hendersons wheel and warehouse sells the hub and rotors new for around $35. The small inner bearing spindles you need won't be as easy to find but shouldnt be any harder to come by than the supercab knuckles. Once you are done you will have the advantage of cheep GM brake parts.
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
Well, I've given up on the re-drill and am going through some knuckles I have and am trying to identify them. I think I ID'd one as a Chev, but I haven't ID'd the other. Can anybody give me some tips on identifying them, such as obvious markings, part numbers, measurements, etc? If not, could anybody identify them by sight if I were to get pics and post them here?

thanks for any help.:)
 
B

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
Pictures would be good. Things like number of spindle studs, caliper mount provisions, ect might help. The Flat top site you refered to earlier should be as good as any reference. As far as I know the list of flat top 44 knuckles is pretty small and they should be covered there.
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
Thanks. I used that article to be fairly sure that the one knuckle I have is either a Chev or FSJ, but It doesn't have real clear pictures of the Dodge and others (especially the features that distinguish them), so it's helpful, but doesn't give me everything I need. The other appears to be slightly different and somebody told me it was a Dodge, but I just want to be sure so that I can move on to finding spindles and axleshafts.

I'll get some pics tonight and some of the other info too and post tomorrow. Thanks

This pic (from the article) shows that the Chev's protrude more than others. Is this unique to only the Chev? Is this a giveaway?
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images/Dana44flatops/Chevyflatopdriverfront_s.jpg

This pic shows a small nut/bolt on the casting at the far left of the picture that resembles one of my knuckles. Ignore the red-arrows -- I'm not pointing out the same things the article was on this pic. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/images/Dana44flatops/Chevyflatopdriverback_boss.jpg

Complete article http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
Heh. I must sound terribly ignorant. I'm a fair weekend wrench, but axles, steering, carbs, and trannies are Greek to me:D

The only reason I'm researching this is because I'm having a difficult time motivating my mechanic to get it done, so I'm trying to take the reins.:(
 
custom

custom

building in process
Location
Boise Idaho
I am running Chevy flat top knuckles for disc brakes, (casting numbers: R-C36519 and L-C36520), the small early chevy spindles, chevy 1/2 ton backing plates, chevy large piston 3/4 ton calipers, Ford 5 on 5 1/2 bearing hubs and rotors, wheel bearings, races and seals are all for the ford bearing hub. Then you will need the longer chevy stub shaft to get full engagement into the locking hub and be able to get the outer snap ring on.

I can provide more info if needed. Pm me as I dont view threads often.
 
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