Jeep Replacing Pinion Yoke on XJ 8.25

[Homefryy]

The U-joint at the pinion yoke on my XJ's rear axle failed and the pinion yoke got some nasty wear. The keeper tab for the U-joint is completely gone on one side.

Is there a way that I can replace the yoke without messing with preload and all that fun diff stuff? I have no experience messing with differential internals and lack the tools to deal with that.

 

[I Lean]

That axle uses a crush sleeve on the pinion, so IN THEORY you need to replace that if you mess with the pinion nut/yoke.

In practice, you can replace the yoke (and seal, and nut...do all 3) without disturbing too much. You just have to be careful not to get too much preload on those bearings when putting on the new nut.

 

[Herzog]

If you get a replacement, try to get a ubolt version instead of straps too. But yea, tighten it back down but make sure you don't crush the sleeve any more (it takes quite a bit) and then stake the nut. I've seen many nuts back off after something like this and then take out a pinion bearing.

A super temporary fix would be to weld a little tab onto the ujoint strap to keep the cap in if needed.

 

[4x4_Welder]

Crushing torque is -usually- in the 200ft/lb range, so you should be able to safely go to 150ft/lbs without changing the preload.

 

[Homefryy]

Thanks for the input everybody. Just ordered this u-bolt yoke. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/chrysler-825-u-bolt-yoke-kit.html

I will see how just tightening the nut down on the current crush sleeve goes and hope for the best. I guess worse case scenario I destroy the diff internals and then I will be forced to open things up and re-gear.

The current suggested torque for the pinion nut is 150 ft-lbs. Anybody have a different number they want to suggest?

 

[crosbike]

Can you pull the crush sleeve and measure it and make a solid spacer to that width? Then put in and torque down the nut without putting any more preload on the bearing?

 

[I Lean]

Can you pull the crush sleeve and measure it and make a solid spacer to that width? Then put in and torque down the nut without putting any more preload on the bearing?

I don't think that would work--the crush sleeve will expand slightly when it's taken out. So you could make the solid spacer that size, then you'd still need to adjust it for proper preload after the fact. All commercially available solid spacers use shims to adjust preload.

I wouldn't worry about it unless you were doing a full setup anyway. In this case, just stick the new yoke on there and roll with it.

 

[zmotorsports]

I've replaced a lot of seals and yolks over the years without issue with the crush sleeves. Granted in theory you are supposed to replace the crush sleeve any time they are disturbed but it has more to do with not getting them tight enough when you have issues.

I use my in/lb. torque wrench and measure rotating torque prior to removal. I then remove the yolk and seal and clean everything thoroughly before reinstalling the seal and yolk. Don't rely on actual torque value of the nut as that is not accurate enough, you want to measure the rotating torque as that is what the crush sleeve is controlling, the preload. I will usually add a couple in/lbs of rotating torque upon reassembly but no more than 5 in/lbs. from the original value.

I've seen people also use a reference mark but I don't feel that is accurate enough as even a few thousands of thickness variation on the yolk can alter the alignment of the reference mark upon reassembly. I feel rotating torque is the most accurate short of complete disassembly and setup but again I have done many, many yolks and seals over the past 30+ years by using the rotating torque method.

Mike

 

[N-Smooth]

That happened to mine years ago. I actually noticed it as I was pulling it on the trailer to head to a competition. I threw on my spare and tightened it down with my impact. Since then I ordered the IRO one and put it on with the same method. I've had zero issues.