Rubicon Dana 44 Front Axle.

[tweakeyjeep]

I might get a really good deal on a Rubicon Front Dana 44.... Do you guys think it would be worth buying and putting in my YJ?

I know I'm going to weld on new spring perches.... But here's the problems with my 30 and you guys give the intel on what you would do....

My Dana 30 is 3.53 gearing, my Dana 44 rear which is going in soon is 4.10.... Same as the Rubi.

My Dana 30 is open, my dana 44 rear has an ARB, the Rubi Dana 44 has a no name Air Locker. (should work with On-Board Air Right? (Future addition! )

My Steering is falling apart, I either need Rocklogic to build me a new one or.... Rubi Dana 44 comes with all new parts.

U-joints in both Rubi and Dana 30 are same size, but ring gear and shafts and everything else are not, so that is a plus....

What are your opinions? Or am I just stupid?

 

[WJL]

You have pretty much answer your own questions if the 30 is shot.

If it comes all assembled and all you have to do is remove mounting pads and the $$$ is right all the better.

Things to rember 44 is low pinion, locker in front 44 uses low pressure. (I think it is somewhere 7 to 10 psi, not 80 like the ARB)
other than that if the info stated is correct and price is right you could be installing a 44 soon.

Good luck

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Also remember that while Jeep extensivly advertises it as a D44... it essentially has D30 outers, so yes, the center-section is stronger than your existing axle, but not the outers. Still an upgrade over what you ahve but you might look for a true 44 unless you can get a sweet deal on the Rubi 44.

 

[James K]

Unless it is a screaming deal, I don't think the gain you get is worth it. Go with a different 44.

 

[Hickey]

I agree James. Why would the seller be selling it otherwise?

 

[tweakeyjeep]

No I'm not buying it from a guy who has a Rubi.... I have a buddy that works for a dealership and can get me cost on basically any part sold through jeep....

He got my buddy a 2000 cherokee which was worth 17000 for only 9500! So he does have hookups. I'm not sure what the price is, but when I find out I'll let ya know and you guys can give me a thumbs up or down.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Hickey]

I bet you could get a waggy 44 with geras and an ARB for less than he can get you that Ruby 44.

 

[James K]

Originally posted by Jeremy
I bet you could get a waggy 44 with geras and an ARB for less than he can get you that Ruby 44.

yeah, cause cost ain't even cheap at the dealer.

 

[tweakeyjeep]

What would a reasonable (most likely) cost be on a waggy 44 front end?

 

[Hickey]

2- 300 bucks. ARB for 600, gears, 250. install, 3-400. So about 1500 for a much stronger axle than the RUBI.

 

[James K]

Originally posted by tweakeyjeep
What would a reasonable (most likely) cost be on a waggy 44 front end?

Watch the paper. There are some complete waggys in the thrifties for 300.00 sometimes.

Try u-pullit or pick and pull. Go on the half price sales when they happen. You should be able to get out of one of those two yards for about 200.00 on full price days.

Plus you are going to have to cut all those factory brackets off of a rubicon front axle. That alone would make me not go that direction

 

[N-Smooth]

it all depends on if you want a real 44. want to replace a crappy axle with a crappy axle, go for it. i'd go with waggy's. i got my front on half off day at pnp. and my rear at u-pull it for 120 or something. they are pretty cheap really.
thats all
-nate

 

[Bones]

Get a real 44 if that's what you want/need.

FWIW I have a small fortune in my front waggy.

$150 from JY
$575 Steering, links, ends, flattops
$585 ARB
$150 gear install
$trade for gears/install
$650 warns/CTM's (best deal/purchase EVER!)
$200 on bard air to run ARB
$70 lockouts
$150~ bearings, brakes, etc.
$75~ ball joints


$2600 into mine so I better run it for a while huh? All the rebuild parts add up FAST! I didn't reuse anything as far as bearings, seals, calipers, etc. I replaced everything I could think of.

 

[James K]

Originally posted by Bones
Get a real 44 if that's what you want/need.

FWIW I have a small fortune in my front waggy.

$150 from JY
$575 Steering, links, ends, flattops
$585 ARB
$150 gear install
$trade for gears/install
$650 warns/CTM's (best deal/purchase EVER!)
$200 on bard air to run ARB
$70 lockouts
$150~ bearings, brakes, etc.
$75~ ball joints


$2600 into mine so I better run it for a while huh? All the rebuild parts add up FAST! I didn't reuse anything as far as bearings, seals, calipers, etc. I replaced everything I could think of.

Damn. I don't think I'm in my chevy 44 1200.00, and I even have custom length shafts.

 

[Bones]

Adds up fast I tell ya! I could have a nice rock anchor 60 up front for that green huh?

BTW I could have a lot less into it if I had used a cheezy locker, cheap gears and not Dana Spicer, went with std crossover and not changed the bearings. Never had to tear into this one except for a couple busted lockouts. I like it.

 

[James K]

Originally posted by Bones
Adds up fast I tell ya! I could have a nice rock anchor 60 up front for that green huh?

Yeah no doubt. but hey you stick by your decisions.
I have only busted two shafts in four years. For some of the stupid sh1t I've done and how many trail miles its seen. I feel pretty good about how its held up

 

[Bones]

I'm more than happy. With a toyota 4 popper and 190:1 it should hold up to plenty of abuse really.

Anyway tweaky, get a front D44 that has no compromises like the Rubi one seems to have. I wouldn't sink any cash into a D30.

 

[mbryson]

Originally posted by Bones
I'm more than happy. With a toyota 4 popper and 190:1 it should hold up to plenty of abuse really.

Anyway tweaky, get a front D44 that has no compromises like the Rubi one seems to have. I wouldn't sink any cash into a D30.

To a certain point, I would run a D30 with the 297 joints.....(33" tires, not many problems and a cheap solution) 36" or bigger.........get a D60.........

{between 33" and 36", you decide.................}

Just my opinion...........


edit:
I'd stay away from the Rubi D44 unless you pick it up under about $600 and plan to stay less than the aforementioned 33" tires and stick with 4.10 gearing.....SAME axle as the reverse D30 in an XJ with the exception of the pig. Most XJ guys that are still running the D30 with 35" tires drive kind of mindful of the limitations. The Rubi D44 would be the same IMHO from what I've seen of the construction.

 

[N-Smooth]

you don't have to put a ton of money into your d44, if you get one. if everything is in okay condition you can run it till it needs replaced. but it depends on if it sees a lot of street miles or not. i wouldn't feel bad about running an old waggy axle with factory axleshafts, ball joints and bearings if it was only for offroad. but i replaced some stuff on my axle anyways, just because i felt like it. you definitely don't need to have warn shafts and ctm's either. that is something i am not going to upgrade to until i break my shafts... and i even have a set of trail spares.
just my thoughts,
-nate

p.s. go for rockwell 2.5 tons i know a a guy that is selling a complete rockwell truck for like 700 bucks. take the axles off and junk the truck. 6.72 gears from the factory would be nice...

 

[Bones]

Originally posted by mbryson
To a certain point, I would run a D30 with the 297 joints.....(33" tires, not many problems and a cheap solution) 36" or bigger.........get a D60.........

{between 33" and 36", you decide.................}

Just my opinion...........

36" or bigger go 60? That's insaine! 38.5" SX will be my next tire on this here D44. Anything bigger and go 60 IMO. I'm talking trail rig not comp rig here as well.