rubicon locker

[00harpdawg]

so last weekend i blew my stock rubicon locker does anyone know if they have rebuild kits out there for this locker and would you just replace it with a oem locker or go with something else like arb or detroit

 

[I Lean]

To my knowledge, Chrysler still only offers a complete replacement, no service parts. For that reason, we've replaced a few for people with either Detroits or ARB's. (they don't want to spend the money on something they've already proven they can break)

 

[waynehartwig]

Yup, no rebuild kits... What typically happens to them is they are busted when open (not locked). Since they are limited slip, the helical gears get trashed. They are alot stronger locked then open.

In time, Spicer will start releasing them to market. Currently the front one has been released - Spicer part number 84650 and is ~$560. The rear is Spicer 84336 and not released yet to my knowledge. The actuator I don't believe has been released yet, either Spicer 84307.

I have a brand new OE locker sitting here that I would let go for cheaper than a new one. It's brand new, sitting in the original box. I bought it for a friend a while back, he 'forgot' I had it and bought a new one from LHM for over $200 more than I was selling this one to him.

Part number 52104572AA new is $690 and I'll do $500 to your door. Give me $'s today, and I'll even make the trip down and drop it off at the UPS store tonight (UPS has already picked up here today).

 

[DToy]

Wow, if you're going to put a factory locker in it again that deal from Wayne can't be beat. During a week long Moab trip last week a friend of mine broke his rear locker in his Rubi, cost him $800 for the locker and another $300 for the install. If it was me, I would have done an ARB or a Detroit. Both seem stronger than the factory locker.

I've also read that you can put a Rubicon front locker in the rear and that they are stronger due to the fact that they are not a limited slip when unlocked, but I don't know what all is involved in installing a front locker in the rear axle. Might be something to look into if you want to stay with factory lockers.

 

[waynehartwig]

Wow, if you're going to put a factory locker in it again that deal from Wayne can't be beat. During a week long Moab trip last week a friend of mine broke his rear locker in his Rubi, cost him $800 for the locker and another $300 for the install. If it was me, I would have done an ARB or a Detroit. Both seem stronger than the factory locker.

I've also read that you can put a Rubicon front locker in the rear and that they are stronger due to the fact that they are not a limited slip when unlocked, but I don't know what all is involved in installing a front locker in the rear axle. Might be something to look into if you want to stay with factory lockers.

There is no physical difference between the front and rear locker. Meaning they will both interchange.

I can't lie, I want this thing gone. But I also understand if you don't want the same locker anymore. I ran Rubicon lockers up until I pulled my axles for 60's. I did break it once and I also busted a shaft - reverse order actually - got the new Alloy USA shafts in and during the test drive found the locker was busted. Had I know the locker was bad, I would have upgraded to a 33 spline ARB or Detroit. Instead, I just put another stocker in and ran that one for a while longer without issues.

I really liked the fact it was a LSD when unlocked and a good one at that. I also liked the fact they operated on 5 psi instead of 100 like the ARB's - so quietness was a strong point. For you, all of this is a strong selling point as well as ease to change from one stocker to another - no gear setup needed - swap bearings and actuator and go. With an ARB, you'll have to setup the gears again, put a hole in the diff for the airline, and plug off the sensor and air holes.

For the sensor I use a oil pan drain plug from a 91 Acura. It's the perfect thread length and with a little grinding on the flange (to match the nylon gasket it comes with), it bolts right in place. Then for the air hole, I just weld it up with some nickle rod.

 

[Max Power]

If you dont care about having a switched locker you cant beat detroit. It doesn't seem like the smartest thing to replace a weak locker with another weak locker. Fix it once and do it right. It will be chaper in the long run.

 

[Zombie]

Quick question here... is this weakness in the rear locker exclusive to the TJ Rubi? I don't tink the rear in mine is limited slip.. it seems to act full open all the time (yeah... I haven't wired in the lockers yet).

Also, will aftermarket diffs fit the JK axles? My 5.9 has a tendency to find the weak link in drivetrain componants...

 

[I Lean]

Quick question here... is this weakness in the rear locker exclusive to the TJ Rubi? I don't tink the rear in mine is limited slip.. it seems to act full open all the time (yeah... I haven't wired in the lockers yet).

Also, will aftermarket diffs fit the JK axles? My 5.9 has a tendency to find the weak link in drivetrain componants...

I've seen one broken JK Rubicon locker so far. It belongs to "scrogg" here, he broke a shaft in Moab, and when we pulled it apart to put in stronger shafts, we found the broken locker.

What I'd like to know, is if the locker broke due to the broken shaft, or independently? (if the alloy shaft would have been in there to begin with, would the locker still have broken?)

 

[1993yj]

What is the warranty on the Rubi lockers?

 

[00harpdawg]

i took it into the dealer and they say they won't warrenty it beacause of the lift and tires i didn't break a shaft or any thing all i was doing was towing a trailer in moab and pulled into the dirt parking lot and bam, i would love to use a detroit but the jeep is for sale right now and i would perfer to keep it somewhat oem. and i don't really care for streghth since i'm building up another jeep to wheel with. so this jeep will be a daily driver till it's sold so in the winter might be a little scary

 

[waynehartwig]

i took it into the dealer and they say they won't warrenty it beacause of the lift and tires i didn't break a shaft or any thing all i was doing was towing a trailer in moab and pulled into the dirt parking lot and bam, i would love to use a detroit but the jeep is for sale right now and i would perfer to keep it somewhat oem. and i don't really care for streghth since i'm building up another jeep to wheel with. so this jeep will be a daily driver till it's sold so in the winter might be a little scary

It was probably already broken before and in the parking lot you took it out. I've seen just one tooth bust and unless it's on that one tooth at a certain time, you would never know it was busted. In one case a customer didn't even know it was bad until I pulled the diff apart to change gears and found the locker shot.

Lift has nothing to do with it. But what size tire do you have? If you still have 31's, and it's under warranty still, they HAVE to warranty it.

 

[1995zj]

He's on 35's so they won't do anything.

As for the OEM locker, I thought they were air actuated? So basically an ARB (open/spool)?

 

[I Lean]

He's on 35's so they won't do anything.

As for the OEM locker, I thought they were air actuated? So basically an ARB (open/spool)?

The TJ Rubi lockers are air actuated, but they're a limited slip when the locker is off. (and only something like 5 PSI instead of 80+)

 

[Gravy]

I'm pretty sure I have one laying in a box of parts here in the garage.

Is there anyway I can bench test it to see if it works?

 

[1993yj]

Thats bullshit that they won't warranty it because of the larger tires. Larry H warrantied my dad's 2003 Rubi transmission and it was on 33's.

Is there any wonder why the American auto makers are going under, when the foreign auto makers come in here with better quality, cheaper pricing, and actually stick to their warrantys?

I know that you didn't get it from a local dealer here, but I would do something about taking it up with Chrysler.

 

[waynehartwig]

I'm pretty sure I have one laying in a box of parts here in the garage.

Is there anyway I can bench test it to see if it works?

Not really... There is an actuator on the side, you can see if that 'actuates' freely. The only real thing you can do is completely dissamble it and physically check the side and helical gears to see if they are cracked or have teeth missing.

...You are talking about a Rubicon locker and not ARB, correct?

 

[waynehartwig]

Thats bullshit that they won't warranty it because of the larger tires. Larry H warrantied my dad's 2003 Rubi transmission and it was on 33's.

Is there any wonder why the American auto makers are going under, when the foreign auto makers come in here with better quality, cheaper pricing, and actually stick to their warrantys?

I know that you didn't get it from a local dealer here, but I would do something about taking it up with Chrysler.

It doesn't surprise me that it's not covered. 35" is way bigger than the 31" that it comes stock with. The locker failure is directly related to the larger tires. Where as your dad's tranny could not have been. The newer autos that came in the Rubicon's and TJ's after 03 had issues. Some just needed a PCM flash and others had failed completely before the flash could take place - no drive/reverse on some mornings for up to 30 seconds or more was the sympton and a cavitating/bleed down pump was the cause.

 

[00harpdawg]

i've called chrysler directly and talked to them they say since it is on 35's that they won't warrenty it cause of the stress it puts on the locker i was even going to throw some 33's on to try and get it done but they still said no but as for the tranny they say they will still warranty the transfercase tranny and motor no matter how big the lift and tires lift and tires only affect the axles

 

[benjy]

Thats bullshit that they won't warranty it because of the larger tires.

So they should warranty a stretched, comp cut rig on 42s? Where do you draw the line? Engineers designed a product to be used a certain way, and when that is modified in any way (this situations seems extremely cut and dry to me) it shouldn't be warrantied.

 

[chans]

i've called chrysler directly and talked to them they say since it is on 35's that they won't warrenty it cause of the stress it puts on the locker i was even going to throw some 33's on to try and get it done but they still said no but as for the tranny they say they will still warranty the transfercase tranny and motor no matter how big the lift and tires lift and tires only affect the axles

Borrow some 31s to throw on if you don't have yours still and take it in to a dealership you didn't call or go into yet. I know someone who had 33s on a Tacoma and blew the rear locker and gears at Little Moab and took it in with the 33s on and told them they broke pulling out of a parking lot and they replaced the whole 3rd for free even though they didn't believe him.