rubicon locker

Borrow some 31s to throw on if you don't have yours still and take it in to a dealership you didn't call or go into yet. I know someone who had 33s on a Tacoma and blew the rear locker and gears at Little Moab and took it in with the 33s on and told them they broke pulling out of a parking lot and they replaced the whole 3rd for free even though they didn't believe him.


The only issue I see with this is if the dealer put his info on the computer saying they could not cover it. Kind of like when you fail emissions the place has it in the system so when you go to another they know what was going on. Just a thought not sure if that is how it works or not.
 

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
:rolleyes: So they should warranty a stretched, comp cut rig on 42s? Where do you draw the line? Engineers designed a product to be used a certain way, and when that is modified in any way (this situations seems extremely cut and dry to me) it shouldn't be warrantied.

Yeah, that is exactly what I said.

Give me a break.
 

pkrfctr

Registered User
Location
Spanish Fork, UT
I've had 4 rear's replaced under warranty in two different rubis. 2 in my tubed out, stretched gold one and 2 in the new unlimited. both where on 35s, 6"lifts and 4.88's when the work was done. 2 were replaced in reno, and two at brent brown in orem. the problem you'll run into is if the dealer you took it to denied it, it will show that at any dealer- i'd still try though. If you cant get it warranteed - I would recommend throwing a front locker in it. the only difference is the limited slip, with lockers who the hell needs limited slip. The front is also stronger due to not having the limited slip(simplier design)
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Not really... There is an actuator on the side, you can see if that 'actuates' freely. The only real thing you can do is completely dissamble it and physically check the side and helical gears to see if they are cracked or have teeth missing.

...You are talking about a Rubicon locker and not ARB, correct?

yes I believe it is a Rubicon locker.

I will take some pics when the Geek Squad gets done fixing my camera
 

Slippery

In GA now,headed to MOAB!
Location
NE Atlanta
Rubi Front Locker

Hey, did you by a replacement? I have one I'll sale as well if anyone else needs one, with 4.10 gears. Mine is used, and pulled for an upgrade to 4.88's/ Eaton Elocker, Chromoloy shafts, etc.

Let me know if I can help!

Doug
 

GOAT

Back from the beyond
Location
Roanoke, VA
Throw all of it away. The rubi locker is a POS, and it's a complete waste of time to try to warranty it. Chrysler is on it's last leg. Dealers are getting raked through the coals as far as warranty cost goes right now.


IMHO: I've snapped 30 spline alloy shafts in my TJ on 35s. 35 spline D44 axles are a total waste. 33 spline is the only thing that will live in there if you're aggressive.........that is at least until the R&P lets go or you bend the housing:greg:

Your best bet is to go with an aftermarket kit with detroit or ARB combo. ARB if it's a DD.


If money is tight:

1.Weld the rubi locker solid if salvageable.
2.Get a LS from ebay, gaylon's, boyce
3.Grab an open diff on the cheap, weld it or throw in a lunchbox for now.
4.Spool

The good thing is, you don't have to worry about pinion depth changes. Just grab a new carrier and set the backlash.

Jenn's unlimited has a aussie and some 30 spline alloys and doesn't do too bad in the rocks or around town in the snow.
 

nvrstuk

crap, i'm stuck...
Location
Bountiful, utah
i am intersted in a 2005 era rubi locker for cheap if someone still has one. i would like to upgrade to an arb but it will have wait for more funds. just need to get it on the road again for now. call brian 801-201-9578
 
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