Suzuki Samurai questions?

[1\4elliptic toy]

I need a little schooling on the Samurai. Answer me a few of these would ya? I have read some of the wiki, just curious about a few of these.

1. They started being imported in 85? until 95 right?
2. EFI started in 91?
3. You want EFI right?
4. What about hardtop models? or was it an option for all years?
5. What are the best years for a stock or slightly modified one? (one locker and 31 inch tires)
6. What are the shortest (not wheelbase but length) models/years?
7. Is there anything to watch out for that make one year more or less desirable than others?
8. Are there any years that are heavier than others?
9. What would a nice clean stock daily driver cost?

 

[spencurai]

I think they started in '86 or '87 but I'm not sure.

You want EFI if you can find it but they are hard to come by. The EFI models hit after the whole "These things roll over at the drop of a hat" so sales were super low and production was low.

Finding a hardtop that is square is sometimes tough too. It doesn't take much of a hit to make the hard top rear door not line up and close. If you plan on serious crawling just skip the hard top...the first time you flop it the rear door will never close right.

All of the years are basically identical aside from EFI. There were like two trim packages...basically with or without a tachometer. I think some actually shipped with A/C which is pointless as you could probably choose between forward motion or cold air but probably not both.

All the bodies were the same length. They are all basically right around 2000lbs...the hard top is a little over 2k and the soft top a little under 2k.

I would never pay more than 1500$ for a stock zuk and that sucker had better be immaculate AND have a new motor. shoot for 1000$ for a good runner.

This board has a TON of zuk knowledge so ask away.

 

[1\4elliptic toy]

Thanks Spence, It won't be for crawling, just DD and beating around town when we are traveling the states. What about power? I know they don't have a ton but its fine in stock or mostly stock form right? What about the 1.6 swap? hard? is it really worth it? There is always a few nicer ones on ebay but they seem to be going for some pretty decent coin.

 

[Stephen]

I need a little schooling on the Samurai. Answer me a few of these would ya? I have read some of the wiki, just curious about a few of these.

1. They started being imported in 85? until 95 right?

Started importing in '85 as an '86 model. '86's have different side mirrors and a shorter seat track for the driver and passenger than all the other models. '86-'88.5 has the 'round' interior trim where all the vents and gauges are round, '88.5+ they change to squareish. They stopped importing them to California in '94 and to the remaining states in '95. My understaning is that all '95 Samurai's do not have a rear seat.

2. EFI started in 91?

Yes. When the motor switched from the G13A to the G13B you got EFI, but the displacement dropped slightly. From 1324cc to 1295cc or something like that. Also, all EFI motors came with flat top pistons for higher compression. And, in 1991 the transmission switched from having 5th as an overdrive to 5th being a true gear.

3. You want EFI right?

Maybe. I have an '86 tintop and I ran it for 10 years with either the stock carb or a Weber 32/36 on it. About two years ago I swapped in a completely rebuilt '92 motor and EFI. The EFI is great on the trail and returns better MPG around town but is probably comparable to a good running stock carb in both MPG and power. The Weber will give you great power off the line and on the freeway and can be properly set up to avoid flooding on the trail, but your MPG's will suffer. Currently (well, before my bloody return line got clogged. Still need to fix that) my Samurai gets about 20 mpg with the EFI.

4. What about hardtop models? or was it an option for all years?

It was an option for all years, but as you get to newer model years, they become harder to find. Probably because less people chose it as an option. You are most likely to find hard tops in the earlier years.

5. What are the best years for a stock or slightly modified one? (one locker and 31 inch tires)

The absolute best would be a 1995. Why? Because it is the newest thus, least likely to have rust. Honestly, aside from the trim and EFI, there is no difference in the years. The trim level might be something to look for. There were JL and JX models. JX had a tachometer, nicer door panels and possibly A/C. Around '89 they had an Special Edition that had chrome bumpers and some other bells and whistles, but not worth hunting down unless you are a collector.

6. What are the shortest (not wheelbase but length) models/years?

All the same.

7. Is there anything to watch out for that make one year more or less desirable than others?

Rust, rust, rust. These suckers are rust magnets. Mostly in the wheel wells. Aside from that and the afore mentioned trim/EFI/Displacement/Transmission changes in '88.5 and '91, everything else is the same. Over the years I have notices slight differences like how the break lines are run from early '86's to even later '86s (mine has a manufacture date of August '85), but that kind of stuff is pretty trivial.

8. Are there any years that are heavier than others?

Nope

9. What would a nice clean stock daily driver cost?

An interesting question. Now a days a perfect tintop will run you between $2,000 to $5,000 depending on where you are looking. Clean soft tops are between $1,500 - $3,000. And everyone has different opinions of what is a "clean" Samurai. Hunt around on eBay and Craigslist and you can probably find a good deal on a nice California or Arizona car. There is a guy down in Arizona who used to buy and restore them, but he always had an oddball website and I can't seem to find it right now. He was asking top dollar for them though. In the range of $5,000+, but they were perfect.