School me on H1 (HMMWV) beadlocks

[Rot Box]

What can you tell me about H1 beadlocks? I don't know much about them, but I do know they measure 16.5" they have huge back spacing, and they share the common 8 lug pattern.

How hard is it to get some, and where? How much back spacing to they actually have? Who can re-center them? Was there any different styles offered--ones to avoid? anything else I should know? What do they mean when they say run flat? Anyway thanks for any info that you can give me

Andrew

 

[Tacoma]

They are relatively easy to get. There are people on Pirate selling them all the time, and I personally recommend 406YJ if you buy from Pirate. Cheap, and a great guy to deal with. I think he's got 8-bolts for like $40 ea.

There is a difference between the 8 and 12 bolt rims. 8 bolts have a ring that bolts to a shell, which is bolted to the hub. They are rated to I think 45psi. The 12 bolts are a little different-- the wheel mounting surface and the beadlock bolts are on the same piece. And they are rated to 65psi. VERY BIG DIFFERENCE!!!

They are both recentered by cutting out the wheel mounting surface and welding in new centers. I recommend the pressed, molded centers for sale on Pirate, I forget who's selling them but it might be Ballistic Fabrication. As for who recenters them, I don't know, locally. A jig to do so could easily be made with a spare hub though... and there are a lot of writeups out there.

Runflats are the factory beadlock insert. The magnesium ones bolt together, the rubber ones (usually found on the 12bolt rims) don't, they SUCK to remove, too. Anyway they're like a mini-wheel inside the tires, if you get a flat you just keep going on the runflat. In theory anyway. I imagine the rubber ones would work a little better for that... The magnesium ones are pretty light, but tall, and the rubber ones weigh about a million pounds. PVC inserts are available and a much better idea if you ask me.

Backspacing is... I want to say 7.5"???? If you run dually 60 hubs, your hub will be tucked way in and safe.

 

[jdub]

If you run standard srw axles will the backspacing hit the steering? Wanting the backspacing for a jeep. What axles are best that have stout/shorter hubs?

 

[mbryson]

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=41503&highlight=hummer+wheel

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=22157&highlight=hummer+wheel

Oh, and here's some other pics...

Dually

SRW

As you can tell, a lock out and a SRW (single rear wheel bearing hub) is probably not a good combination.

offset arm for SRW hubs

I got the steering arms from RockLogic LONG ago. I think they sourced them from Rockstomper. They don't have Ackerman angle and all the other uber-sexy stuff that some of the new arms have, but I don't know that you really need all that stuff?

Oh, and for H1 wheels, parts and advice, you can't GO WRONG with Dean on Pirate (66CJDean). The guy KNOWS his stuff and does good work.

All that said and I'm just not a fan of Swampers and that's probably the best tire in a 16.5" wheel that I know of. They're actually pretty good for almost any terrain off-road, but are HORRIBLE on the highway. Add the heavy wheel to that and you've got some issues at speed. Made me wonder how long my 35 spline outers would last?

(that said, I LOVE the Creepy Crawlers I'm running now--I LOVE the double beadlock H1 wheels--I'd love to have a combination of the two)

 

[Tacoma]

As you can see from Marc's post-- unless you're running an offset steering arm, yes, you will hit in a massive way. I am trying to remember who else is selling an offset arm just for H1's... eh.

I posted a big thread on all the 60 arms I could find on Pirate... search for '60 steering arm thread" or something, you'll find it.

The absolute shortest hub you're going to get is the GM dually. I think Ford hubs are a little shorter for SRW's, but not worth the rest of trouble unless you're running a Ford axle too.

I'm going to be running 2.5" spacers on SRW hubs, that tucks them in pretty good. I'll post pics when I get them in.

 

[Rot Box]

Wow thanks that was exactly what I was after

I have the Dodge D60 and rear D70U SRW. I'm a little new to the Dana axle stuff (diehard Toyota lover ), but I don't think I want to get some re-centered i'd almost prefer to run spacers. I guess I'll have to do some measuring and decide if I need to run dually spacers or just get two sets of shorter regular wheel spacers...

Anyway how wide is a typical dually spacer? Do they bolt directly to the typical srw hub studs or will I need a new drw hub assembly? and lastly are they fairly road worthy? Thanks again!

Andrew

 

[Tacoma]

There is no dually "spacer". It is the hub itself.

Go read the 60 Bible on Pirate, in the Tech section of the homepage. Learn much.

 

[Meat_]

There is no dually "spacer"

Yeah there is, it's out front on my Cummins

 

[Tacoma]

what?

 

[Meat_]

They run a bolt on spacer on the duallies of those years.

 

[Tacoma]

Interesting... I did not know that.

The GM dually hubs are completely road-worthy, seeing that they are installed on... every straight axle dually....

Marc has a set for cheap if you need them.

 

[Rot Box]

Interesting... I did not know that.

The GM dually hubs are completely road-worthy, seeing that they are installed on... every straight axle dually....

Marc has a set for cheap if you need them.

ha I meant the wheels being road worthy?... Hubs definatly yes

I think most unit bearing drw dana 60 and 2wd trucks had a "bolt on spacer" and the taper bearing axles needed the custom DRW hub, but I'm no expert :sick:

Either way I PM'd a guy on PBB hopefully I'll get the good word soon

 

[Tacoma]

If it was Todd aka 406YJ he'll be in touch presently.

 

[rondo]

I bought my dana 60 high steer arms from harsh terrain. my wheels are dodge with 6inches of backspacing and i'm sure to need them. anyway he's been my friend over 20 years and he's a great guy.

 

[greenjeep]

Oh, and for H1 wheels, parts and advice, you can't GO WRONG with Dean on Pirate (66CJDean). The guy KNOWS his stuff and does good work.

All that said and I'm just not a fan of Swampers and that's probably the best tire in a 16.5" wheel that I know of. They're actually pretty good for almost any terrain off-road, but are HORRIBLE on the highway. Add the heavy wheel to that and you've got some issues at speed. Made me wonder how long my 35 spline outers would last?

(that said, I LOVE the Creepy Crawlers I'm running now--I LOVE the double beadlock H1 wheels--I'd love to have a combination of the two)

Agree with Marc, especially about Dean, he's great to work with.

I'm running them and so far really like them. I have the 12 bolt w/magnesium inserts which I cut the run flat off of. Mine have 7" of BS, so I only gained 2" of track width going from waggy 44s to GM 60/14.

Here's my contribution to the pics

The two halves of the 12 bolt

Cut down insert

Insert in tire

I still had to grind a little off the caliper for clearance

Front without the drive flanges

Still had to clearance the hi-steer offset arms

Rear

Clearance is tight in the rear, at full stuff, due to BS

 

[jdub]

Has anyone had success with the internal pellet style balancing or would you have to use larger ammo to make an effect?

 

[jsudar]

Check out eBay for wheel spacers. You can find almost any width you could want-- from super thin to 3" I think. They usually run $80 to 95 per pair. I consider that a small sacrifice considering how cheap H1 beadlocks are compared to any other double beadlock.