General Tech Shocks for Dummies

[Hickey]

I've just started researching replacement shocks for my YJ and I realized I don't know crap about shocks. There are so many brands and types to choose from, but finding the technical info explaining why one is better than the other is difficult.

I currently have a very harsh ride, my suspension is RE 1.5" springovers on the rear with Waggy's SOA in the front. Not sure what the shocks are now, but I imagine they are whatever was cheapest at the time. I think they are ES3000 ish type shocks. I believe these are twin tube, but I really can't be sure. I know they are far too stiff for my Jeep.

What is an Emulsion shock? I see this term thrown around a lot with no explanation of what it means or does.

Single Tube vs. Monotube? WTH is that and what do they do?

Can anyone school a dummie on shock technology?

 

[Spork]

Might not be scientific or relate but I've seen a lot of YJ's that have springs that are so stiff your shocks are more for decoration than function. I've heard the recommendation to pull the shocks off and test drive it to see if your ride is still harsh or if it turns into the bouncy castle. If the ride is harsh with the shocks off they aren't your problem.

 

[XJEEPER]

This might help....or confuse you more?

http://www.4x4review.com/Features/Tech/BeAGeniusShockAbsorbers/tabid/307/Default.aspx

 

[kobyhud]

good article xjeeper

 

[I Lean]

Your shocks are twin-tube. That is not why they suck...they suck because the valving is WAY to stiff for a little light Jeep like yours.

Figure out what length (collapsed and extended) you need, then decide what your price point is....those two things will narrow down your field of possibilities a ton.

Bottom line, you need lighter valving than you have now.

 

[mesha]

What is an Emulsion shock? I see this term thrown around a lot with no explanation of what it means or does.

Single Tube vs. Monotube? WTH is that and what do they do?

Can anyone school a dummie on shock technology?

If your shock oil and gas can mix it is an emulsion shock regardless of the design.
Most shocks are an emulsion shock. There is no separation between the oil and gas(usually nitrogen) except for the pressure in the nitrogen and the fact that they don't want to be mixed. They do get mixed as the piston moves up and down and the oil is squeezed through the valve(this is what causes the shock to dampen). Really no shock is an emulsion because emulsion only happens between 2 liquids that are not soluble or miscible with each other an the shock only uses on liquid and the gas makes bubbles that people call and emulsion but isn't. If you take a shock and add a component that keeps the oil and nitrogen from mixing. A remote reservoir shock is an example.

Twin tube is cheaper to make than monotube. They also have a smaller piston and don't handle heat as well. The twin tube has 2 chambers. one of the chambers is the pressure chamber and one is the reserve chamber. Self explanatory as to what those do. There is a valve at the piston and bottom of the pressure chamber. One controls compression and one controls tension. There are gas charged and low pressure twin tube which are still gas charged but way lower pressures.

Monotube handles the heat better because it can dissipate easier because working tube is exposed to air. They are more expensive and If you dent them they won't work any more. You can mount them in any direction you want and they will still work. The valving is all done at the piston.

monotube shocks are more expensive and "better", but that doesn't mean a twin tube that is valved right won't be a great ride for you vehicle.

 

[mesha]

pictures always help
first is basic twin tube
second is monotube

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Dent a mono-tube and you damage the piston and likely get a blown shock, so for many the durability of the twin-tube is welcome of the cooling of the monotube. Interesting note about cost of production. Obviously I don't make shocks but from an outside perspective I can only assume the twin tube would be more complicated (i.e. $$$) to manufacture.

 

[Cherokeester]

Mesha is right on except shocks damp, not dampen. They are dampers not dampeners.

This article is pretty good and not too techy. http://www.lcool.org/technical/shock_absorbers/shock_absorbers.html

 

[mesha]

Dent a mono-tube and you damage the piston and likely get a blown shock, so for many the durability of the twin-tube is welcome of the cooling of the monotube. Interesting note about cost of production. Obviously I don't make shocks but from an outside perspective I can only assume the twin tube would be more complicated (i.e. $$$) to manufacture.

From what I understand, I don't make shocks either, the monotubes cost more to produce because the tolerances needed to make it work right are much tighter than a twin tube. The piston rods are bigger usually and that is an expensive part of production. The twin tube does seem like it should cost more to make though. I'll top this all off by saying I really don't know why just what I have heard. Maybe it's all a marketing scam to get us to spend more.

 

[I Lean]

I'd guess it's simply due to the sheer volume of twin-tubes produced vs. monotubes.

 

[Hickey]

Your shocks are twin-tube. That is not why they suck...they suck because the valving is WAY to stiff for a little light Jeep like yours.

Figure out what length (collapsed and extended) you need, then decide what your price point is....those two things will narrow down your field of possibilities a ton.

Bottom line, you need lighter valving than you have now.

I plan on lowering my Jeep after xmas, so I won't be ready for measurements until then. My price point would be $80-100 per shock.

What valving do I need exactly, and how does that compare to what a full size blazer needs?

 

[I Lean]

It depends.

I have Bilstein 5125's on my 4runner, with 255/70 valving both front and rear. The front is perfect, the rear is a bit stiff until I get it loaded with kids and kid supplies.

My guess would be you'd be happy with one of the 170/60 valved options.

Those numbers are only good for Bilstein, each manufacturer has their own way of numbering or designating.

 

[Hickey]

What do the numbers represent? Lb/ft of compression/tension?

 

[I Lean]

No, they're something measured in Newtons...can't remember exactly.

Like I said, different manufacturers use different measurements--so they're only useful for comparing shocks within the same brand.

 

[Deleted member 12904]

I have played with shock valving quite a bit and huge ride and performance gains can be made from shock tuning. That being said in the price range of $80-$100 per shock unless you find something for a good deal used you wont be able to buy a shock that is tunable. My experience with most cheap white rocket shocks are the are light for heavy off-road use so with your complaint of a harsh ride maybe look at spring rate and shackle angle before you get into your shock. If your springs are stiff or your shackle doesnt allow them to move properly even a shock with very light compression valving will not fix your harsh ride.

 

[Hickey]

Did you seriously think I expected to find tunable shocks for that price range? I have no interest in used shocks either. I am confident that my springs are not the issue here.

 

[Deleted member 12904]

Did you seriously think I expected to find tunable shocks for that price range? I have no interest in used shocks either. I am confident that my springs are not the issue here.

Given the title of the thread how was I to know what you thought.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Hickey]

Sorry, I didn't realize your response was based solely on the thread title.

In any case, rebuildable/tunable shocks are surely out of my stated price range.

 

[mesha]

I plan on lowering my Jeep after xmas, so I won't be ready for measurements until then. My price point would be $80-100 per shock.

What valving do I need exactly, and how does that compare to what a full size blazer needs?

Some shocks can be re-valved in case you don't get it right the first time. unfortunately they are usually pricey. I can get you within a few bucks of your needed price range on a set of FOA emulsion shocks though. These can be re-valved with no special tools.
http://f-o-a.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=24_35&products_id=18