Should I install gears myself or pay someone? 14b
- Thread starter koondawg
- Start date
Steve
Who Cares?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I voted do it yourself. While the tools necessary (in-lb torque wrench and dial indicator) probably won't get used for much else - at least mine don't - it's a great thing to know how to do yourself since the price for just the labor for installs is pretty steep.
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
- Location
- Hiding behind a camera
If you don't have a experienced person to help out, I'd say pay someone. While it is not rocket science, it does need to be done right.
Todd Adams
Grammy's Spotter
- Location
- Salt Lake City
There is a great article in one of the newest rags. Can’t remember if it 4-Wheeler or Petersen’s. Pre load on the bearings, backlash and pattern miss adjustments will lead to a quick demise to your gear set, locker and even housing. I would put it on a scale right up there with engine and transmission rebuilding. So think again about the cost if not done properly. If you think you can then go for it.koondawg said:
Todd
TimB
Homesick
- Location
- Weatherford, Tx
The 14b is one of the easier one's to do - I say go for it. Just do your homework first so you have the tools and materials on hand before you start.
My-yota
E-bays #1 customer
- Location
- US.ARMY, TX, UT also
Todd Adams said:
That article would be in Four wheeler mag april 2006. I looked at the same article it's good; only big problem is making sure backlash is set right, and make sure that your bearings are new too. I did one myself and couldn't figure out why it wouldn't get good pinion marks on the gears, well I figured out that my pinion bearing was moving around just enough to screw it up. Much better to buy install kit and do it right the first time!
yellowbronco
Cuts Through Grease !!!
- Location
- Moab
If it's one of the easier ones to do like TimB said, go for it!
chadr
Active Member
- Location
- Hurricane, Utah
Do it yourself
I voted do it yourself, but that comes with contingencies. If you have the money to buy the tools and you feel that you would benefit multiple times over for learning this kind of thing, then go for it. There is nothing like a good dose of OJT.
I would suggest that you find a good buddy that has the know how to help you out on your first one or two. There are always little things that pop up that it is always good to have a second opinion on.
Good luck.
I voted do it yourself, but that comes with contingencies. If you have the money to buy the tools and you feel that you would benefit multiple times over for learning this kind of thing, then go for it. There is nothing like a good dose of OJT.
I would suggest that you find a good buddy that has the know how to help you out on your first one or two. There are always little things that pop up that it is always good to have a second opinion on.
Good luck.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
This is my opinion, too.. And as such, I didn't vote, because there isn't this option.rckcrlr said:
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
Lot's of good opinions going on here....
The correct tools to do it yourself are expensive - over $1,000 easy. So will you be doing more of them to help pay for the tools? If only the one set, it would be cheaper to pay someone. The biggest thing you will need is a press, and those range from $0 and way up (I built a nice 30 ton for about $600). You'll also need a bearing puller, another expensive item for a good one. And the list just keeps on going from there...
FWIW The pinion depth gauge is over rated, IMO. If you get a good contact pattern on the gears, you know the pinion depth is set correctly. Experience will dictate to you which way the ring and pinion need to go to get a good pattern...
A DIY book that I like is the one that comes with a set of Yukon gears or master install kit. It will give you a good overview of everything you need to do to make it right. It is generalized, so you'll need to know the differences, but could be very helpful for you. I have some laying around here you can have... Or I'll sell you the gears and master install kit for dirt cheap, which will have one in it.
If you do set up the gears yourself, take your time. Take a large block of time where you can focus 100% on the differential without being distracted or side tracked.
The correct tools to do it yourself are expensive - over $1,000 easy. So will you be doing more of them to help pay for the tools? If only the one set, it would be cheaper to pay someone. The biggest thing you will need is a press, and those range from $0 and way up (I built a nice 30 ton for about $600). You'll also need a bearing puller, another expensive item for a good one. And the list just keeps on going from there...
FWIW The pinion depth gauge is over rated, IMO. If you get a good contact pattern on the gears, you know the pinion depth is set correctly. Experience will dictate to you which way the ring and pinion need to go to get a good pattern...
A DIY book that I like is the one that comes with a set of Yukon gears or master install kit. It will give you a good overview of everything you need to do to make it right. It is generalized, so you'll need to know the differences, but could be very helpful for you. I have some laying around here you can have... Or I'll sell you the gears and master install kit for dirt cheap, which will have one in it.
If you do set up the gears yourself, take your time. Take a large block of time where you can focus 100% on the differential without being distracted or side tracked.
"The correct tools to do it yourself are expensive - over $1,000 easy"
Disagreed. Maybe to have the best tools yes but I did all mine for less than $100 in tools no press either (good old Harbor Freight ). Used a large nut/bolt and thick peice of steel with a hole in it to pull the bearings on. Also heating up some oil very hot and putting the bearings in it will help open up the bearing to get them on/started. A set of set-up bearings is very helpful so you dont have to pull/press the bearings on-off. 30k+ and the gears are still fine. There's no short cuts in the process but I found a way to make it less expensive. Oh and I vote to do it yourself. There is lots of info out there. Just search and read, that is all I dead. I was very intimidated at 1st also but I decided it was just gears and dove in....good luck, you'll be fine.
Disagreed. Maybe to have the best tools yes but I did all mine for less than $100 in tools no press either (good old Harbor Freight
). Used a large nut/bolt and thick peice of steel with a hole in it to pull the bearings on. Also heating up some oil very hot and putting the bearings in it will help open up the bearing to get them on/started. A set of set-up bearings is very helpful so you dont have to pull/press the bearings on-off. 30k+ and the gears are still fine. There's no short cuts in the process but I found a way to make it less expensive. Oh and I vote to do it yourself. There is lots of info out there. Just search and read, that is all I dead. I was very intimidated at 1st also but I decided it was just gears and dove in....good luck, you'll be fine.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
well, color me inspired! I like your bearing installation tool LOL but hey IT WORKS. I'm going to use that!!
bretto said:"The correct tools to do it yourself are expensive - over $1,000 easy"
Disagreed. Maybe to have the best tools yes but I did all mine for less than $100 in tools no press either (good old Harbor Freight
A 14bolt would not even require set up bearings. As far as I can recall they adjust similiar to a Toy or Ford 9". Real easy.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
That's true, you can make stuff work and do with little, but I did say the CORRECT, not necessary, tools are expensive. You can also put the carrier and gears in the freezer over night and then put the bearings in the oven (low temp) for a few hours to get them on easier. But....bretto said:"The correct tools to do it yourself are expensive - over $1,000 easy"
Disagreed. Maybe to have the best tools yes but I did all mine for less than $100 in tools no press either (good old Harbor Freight
If you don't have the correct tools, you also run the risk of wasting money on broken bearings, etc.
TimB
Homesick
- Location
- Weatherford, Tx
I've done probably 100 set of r&p's, many of them with pretty primative tools. So far not a single set has failed. Tools you really need are a bearing splitter and puller, a good dial indicator set, and a torque wrench. Thats under $200 of tools. If you don't know what you are doing and don't have those tools - it's cheaper to pay someone to do it. I have some really cool pullers now but still don't have a press, pimion depth gauge, etc. I want them - just hard to spend the bucks when I'm getting by without them.
Some pinion depth setting tricks -
Use the same shim pack thickness that was in the diff to start with.
Look on the end of the pinion - some have a + or - and a number. This will help you figure out how much shim to add or remove to the original thickness for a starting pack.
Take your time, a good pattern is worth the trouble.
Make sure you get the backlash setting within spec. Wrong backlash is the most common cause of gear noise and early failure. Too tight and the gears don't lube, too lose and it pulls teeth off the pinion. On small diff go tight - if it says 0.005" to 0.008" for backlash then shoot for 0.005". On bigger diffs like the 14b and d60 go to the loose end of the range.
Some pinion depth setting tricks -
Use the same shim pack thickness that was in the diff to start with.
Look on the end of the pinion - some have a + or - and a number. This will help you figure out how much shim to add or remove to the original thickness for a starting pack.
Take your time, a good pattern is worth the trouble.
Make sure you get the backlash setting within spec. Wrong backlash is the most common cause of gear noise and early failure. Too tight and the gears don't lube, too lose and it pulls teeth off the pinion. On small diff go tight - if it says 0.005" to 0.008" for backlash then shoot for 0.005". On bigger diffs like the 14b and d60 go to the loose end of the range.