speaking of road cars: the 24 Hours of LeMons is coming!

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
As any car guy knows, racing is an expensive hobby. As time passes, it seems to only get more and more expensive, relegating it to the sport of kings. What's an average Joe to do? Well, some guys got together a few years back and created a low-buck charity event known as the 24 Hours of Lemons. The premise is simple: you buy an old heap which cannot cost you more than $500, add in some safety gear to keep you safe, and go racing at a real road course surrounded by a whole field of other zany $500 POS "race cars" driven by other people of questionable judgement.

http://24hoursoflemons.com/
homepage-LeMon.png


I've always thought this sounded like lots of fun, but the races are always on the other side of the country and thus just were not practical to attend... until now. This summer, LeMons is coming to MMP on May 31-June 1. A few of my co-workers are talking about forming a team and entering, though it is just in the planning stage right now and thus might not happen.

Anybody else interested?
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I'm interested as well. This could be a real riot and it doesn't sound like it'd be a crazy investment?


(after trying to buy a high school kid car.....is a $500 car even possible?)
 

jeeper

I live my life 1 dumpster at a time
Location
So Jo, Ut
Sounds like a riot!

can it be purchased for $500, and then be fixed? Like a bad motor in a good car type of thing??
 

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
This could be a real riot and it doesn't sound like it'd be a crazy investment?

Indeed.

For those who don't know, veteran 24HOL racers say you should expect to spend $3000-$5000 total to compete in your first event. This total would cover the $500 car, all the safety mods (which don't count against the car budget), entry fee, driver fees, and so on. On the plus side, you'll get substantial track time provided your car stays running... so reliability/durability is much more important than fast fragility. For the first time out, I wouldn't even try to win--I'd just focus on making it to the end and having barrels of fun all the while.

BTW: each team must have 4-6 drivers.
 

ChestonScout

opinions are like Jeeps..
Location
Clinton, Ut
you have to be careful.


If the judges think you spent more than the 500....they will dock you 1 lap for every 10 bucks they think you spend over 500.
 

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
can it be purchased for $500, and then be fixed? Like a bad motor in a good car type of thing??

From the official rulebook:

4: VEHICLE PRICE

4.1: Total Investment in Vehicle Can Not Exceed $500: Except for items described in Rules 4.2 and 4.3, the total spent to purchase and prepare any car may not exceed $500.

4.1.1: Lame-Ass Rationalizations: Cars that "should be" worth $500 don't count; cars that "were worth $500" before you spent another $2000 to fix them don't count; cars you've owned for 20 years and spent more than $500 on during that time don't count; "it would have been worth $500 if it didn't already have a cage" doesn't count. Five hundred dollars means five hundred frickin' dollars.

4.1.2: Lame-Ass Rationalizations About Parts: Same deal. "Free" parts, parts given to you by your buddies, parts left lying around the shop...that crap doesn't impress us. It's worth whatever the last real guy paid in the last real purchase. Don't think you're clever.

4.2: Safety Equipment DOES NOT Count Toward $500 Total: Safety equipment described in Section 3 DOES NOT count toward the $500 total. "Safety" refers to things that can save the driver--not things that can save the car.

4.2.1: Beside the items and processes listed in Section 3, the following are considered safety-related and therefore exempt:
Wheels, tires, wheel bearings, balljoints, and brake components
Exhaust systems downstream of the header/exhaust manifold (NOTE: Turbos and related components are NOT exempt from the $500 limit. Nice try.)
Windshields and wipers.
Driver comfort & information (steering wheel, shifter, gauges, pedals, cool suits, vents, heaters, radio)
All fuel hoses, fuel fittings, fuel filters, and related mounts
All fuel-system components upstream of the fuel pump, including tanks/cells, mounts, fillers, vents, etc. (NOTE: Fuel pumps, carburetors, injection pumps, computers, and individual injectors are NOT exempt from the $500 limit.)

4.3: Registration, Insurance, and License DO NOT Count Toward $500 Total: Registration, insurance, or license charges--assuming for some reason you bothered--DO NOT count toward the $500 total.

4.4: BS Factor: To prevent cheating, all cars will be inspected by a panel appointed by the Organizers. At that time, all teams will be given an opportunity to describe the car's purchase and prep. If the panel believes the limit set out in Rule 4.1 has been exceeded, it will assign a Bullshit Factor (BSF) equal to one BSF per $10 above the limit. The entry will be docked one lap for each BSF assigned. (Ten dollars = one BSF = one lap.) Entrants are very, very, exceedingly strongly encouraged to bring pre-race-prep photographs, verifiable receipts, notarized testimonials, plus any and all other supporting evidence to Tech/BS Inspection. Or at least make up plausible-sounding stories in advance.

4.4.1: Appeal of BSF Panel Decisions: Get real. There's no appealing this decision. You're boned.

4.5: Sponsorships: Conned some hardworking corp into giving you parts or cash? Nice work, but it still counts toward the $500 total. We recommend blowing that sponsorship dough on other stuff instead--hotel rooms, gasoline, entry fees, pedicures, driver suits, personal male enhancement medication, travel expenses, Freudian therapy for the Organizers...things like that.

4.6: Labor Costs: If you didn't pay for the labor, it doesn't count toward the $500 total. If you did pay for it, it does count toward the $500 total. This just ain't that complicated, guys.

4.7: Scavenger Sales: If you sell pieces off of your car, the money that comes back in can be used to offset the initial purchase price. (This only applies to stuff that counts toward the $500 total; the sale of exempt items--like wheels, glass, etc.--can NOT be used to offset the initial purchase price.) Just be prepared to convince some exceedingly skeptical judges of the validity of all those transactions.

4.8: Residual Value: Dumb enough to bring the same pile back for another race? Either do the whole BS process again (bring all your papers and evidence--we ain't gonna remember your sad-sack story from last time), or email the Chief BS Judge to beg a residual value. Include clear post-race pix of the car and list any major mechanical stuff that needs fixing.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Indeed.

For those who don't know, veteran 24HOL racers say you should expect to spend $3000-$5000 total to compete in your first event. This total would cover the $500 car, all the safety mods (which don't count against the car budget), entry fee, driver fees, and so on. On the plus side, you'll get substantial track time provided your car stays running... so reliability/durability is much more important than fast fragility. For the first time out, I wouldn't even try to win--I'd just focus on making it to the end and having barrels of fun all the while.

BTW: each team must have 4-6 drivers.


I've been trying to come up with a target car for the past 30 minutes now. 80's t-birds/Cougar with a 5.0L, or possibly a '70s A-body GM car. The T-bird could be fun to do a NASCAR/Bill Elliot type theme with. I'M SURE my 16 year old would LOVE to join up if someone is short on drivers.


Pimped version of an early 70's boat car? Say a '71 Coupe DeVille or Mark III Lincoln. Complete with furry dash, fuzzy dice, etc.


'71-73 Riviera dressed up like a '60s vette?


(the big motors of the early '70s might prove a formidable fuel obstacle? You are going for laps completed. The motors are pretty reliable, just not fuel efficient at all?)
 
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Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
They've gotten soft. Last time I read the rules, they took your car and they crushed it if the judges thought you'd gamed the $500 limit too hard.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Target car? Needs headgasket, so the price would need to come down enough to cover those parts at least. (if we assume the aluminum heads aren't warped...) Cool car to beat on though!
http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/1057812?ad_cid=4


That'd be bad ass!!!! Being from Clarkston, it's not going to get a lot of people to go look at it either. Might be able to get that thing for $300?
 

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
(the big motors of the early '70s might prove a formidable fuel obstacle? You are going for laps completed. The motors are pretty reliable, just not fuel efficient at all?)

This is a valid point. On one hand, a Crown Vic (especially an Interceptor) would be very durable... but there would be a number of fuel stops. Something smaller and lighter could go further between stops, but that's irrelevant if it can't handle the long-term abuse.

As for structural integrity, consider this: if your car touches another car, both offenders are black flagged, brought into the pits and penalized. In other words, this is not a demolition derby. As such, a big tank might not be the best bet and certainly would not be required.
 

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
Target car? Needs headgasket, so the price would need to come down enough to cover those parts at least. (if we assume the aluminum heads aren't warped...)

Car and Driver entered an Aurora a few years back, and they swore it cost them $500 to purchase. The judges didn't agree, and they were merciless to the poor Olds--there were photos of judges and perhaps even other contestants taking a pick axe to it. :eek:
 
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