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Stephen's 2017 Nissan Patrol err… Armada

Stephen's 2017 Nissan Patrol err… Armada

Engine: Nissan VK56VD 5.6L V8

Transmission: Stock 7-Speed Automatic

Transfer Case: Stock

Front Axle: Stock

Rear Axle: Stock

Suspension:
Front: Alldogs Offroad Y62-F-M springs, OME 90015 struts, SPC 25560 upper control arms
Rear: Alldogs Offroad Y62-R-M Springs, OME 60084 shocks

Steering: Stock

Wheels and Tires: 35"x12.50 R18 General Grabber ATx's

Communication:
HAM: ICOM ID-4100A
GMRS: Midland MXT-275

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I've loved my Trooper over the last eight and a half years, but I just got the itch about a month ago to get something new. Even with all the work and upgrades I've done to the Trooper, its still a 26-year old vehicle at heart. I wanted something newer and yes, more comfortable. So yesterday I pulled the trigger on this Armada. These have been on my radar since Nissan started basing them on the global Patrol platform in 2017. Yes, the Infiniti QX56/80 have been based on the Patrol since 2011; but those are just ugly.
Now an Armada is 80% Patrol. In Nissan's infinite wisdom, they deleted the factory locker, tuned the suspension to be more road biased, and didn't include the "Rock, Sand, and Mud" transmission modes. And the good ol'Federal impact standards mean the bumpers are totally different. All that said, the Armada is still a very competent off-road vehicle. And its freaking huge. Globally, the Patrol is a direct competitor to the 200-Series Land Cruiser, but the Patrol is actually slightly larger than that. So for me, who generally enjoys small vehicles like Samurai's and Miata's; its like driving a bus! But boy; its a bus with guts! That 390hp (equivalent to ~6 Samurais, in case you're wondering) and 401 lb-ft of torque MOVES.
So what are my plans with this barge? Well, its more or less going to replace the Trooper as my backcountry adventure vehicle. I'm still teasing out exactly what I want to do and where to get it from. As mentioned, since this isn't fully a Patrol, the aftermarket is a bit scattered. Some Patrol stuff bolts right on, some (like bumpers) do not. And the Armada specific aftermarket seems to just be spinning up. A number of companies have products that are in development right now.
In broad strokes, though, a mild lift (2"-3"), better all-terrain tires, ARB air locker in the rear, rock rails, front and rear bumpers (when they're available), and some interior stuff to make camp life a bit more luxe.
And yes, @bryson, part of the motivation in getting an Armada was because its different from a Land Cruiser. I just can't help myself.
 
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Stephen

Stephen

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glockman said:
I'm running Dobinson's stuff on my 4runner. I think it actually rides slightly softer than my OME stuff did. It's been on for 2 years and 35k miles with no issues so far.
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Could be different based on what the platform is. As you can see from that chart, the Dobinson's spring rates for the most part are much higher than the OME stuff.
 
Stephen

Stephen

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OK, I got the lift and tires installed yesterday. Sit's ~4" taller than stock.:

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I have installed probably dozens of lifts on vehicles over the years and this was the biggest PITA I've ever encountered. It wasn't necessarily that it was complicated, but that it fought us the whole way. You have to compress the shit out of the rear springs to get them into the buckets, then you have to basically dismantle the entire front end to get the struts into place. Just a lot of wrenching.

But there is an issue, and I'm hoping the fine people of RME will be able to help with a solution. The rear end is WAY out of alignment. Primarily the toe. We fought and fought with it on the alignment rack and couldn't get in anywhere near spec. As such, it drives very weird. I'm on the hunt for aftermarket camber bolts that might give us some more room for adjustment. But, if anyone knows of a super stellar alignment shop that specializes in modified independent suspension, I'd love to hear about them.

Other than that, it rides better than expected. I was really worried it would be a tank, but its still pretty smooth. I got the medium spring rate front coils in anticipation of a bumper and winch (hopefully this summer!) so that'll weigh the front down a bit, which it probably needs. And most importantly, it looks much beefier!
 
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Kiel

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
On the rear IFS trucks I sometimes had the cams, eccentric tabs wear out so they wouldn't hold the specs
 
RockChucker

RockChucker

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Location
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I’m not familiar with how the rear suspension on these vehicles works. Seems there is not a 1 size fits all Independent setup that is universally used...but my question is, would you be able to built your own link that is adjustable turnbuckle style with heims? Obviously that theory doesn’t work if it is some sort of a wishbone arm (well I guess does still work but is not an easy option).
 
Stephen

Stephen

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RockChucker said:
I’m not familiar with how the rear suspension on these vehicles works. Seems there is not a 1 size fits all Independent setup that is universally used...but my question is, would you be able to built your own link that is adjustable turnbuckle style with heims? Obviously that theory doesn’t work if it is some sort of a wishbone arm (well I guess does still work but is not an easy option).
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Here is a diagram of the rear spring bucket (I guess it could be referred to as a trailing arm of sorts?). The lower control arm is in front of this and is a wishbone style:

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The adjustment is the inner bolt, which goes through the bushing that is hanging down in this picture. You can see the control arm in front of it.:

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The longer spring is pushing the arm down, which is pulling the back of the knuckle inboard and causing the toe out situation. So my thoughts are either a camber bolt with a bigger adjustment range, the offset bushings, or both will push the arm out enough to bring the toe in. The other options are to notch the arm or the subframe to allow it to push out more (not ideal), or build a new arm; but I hope it doesn't come to that because I sure don't have that level of skill!
 
UNSTUCK

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
What about a drop bracket on the frame side that will allow the arm to go back to the original position?
 
Stephen

Stephen

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UNSTUCK said:
What about a drop bracket on the frame side that will allow the arm to go back to the original position?
Click to expand...
So there are subframe drop brackets out there that provide lift, which I don't need any more of. But I hadn't thought of just a drop bracket for the bucket. Would that add any lift I wonder?
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
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It's your lower spring seat, right? And you'd be dropping one end--which would remove lift. If I'm lookin at it correctly that is....
 
J

J-mobzz

Well-Known Member
The bushing is on the knuckle side it looks like. If it was me I would move the bolt hole out how ever far is needed for the alignment? You could easily use a plate to support it and burn it on the outside of the arm. 1/4 plate on both sides and 1/2” longer bolt it’s not going anywhere.
 
I Lean

I Lean

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J-mobzz said:
The bushing is on the knuckle side it looks like. If it was me I would move the bolt hole out how ever far is needed for the alignment? You could easily use a plate to support it and burn it on the outside of the arm. 1/4 plate on both sides and 1/2” longer bolt it’s not going anywhere.
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This sounds like a really good idea. Especially if that outer bolt is just a bolt, and the inner bushing is where the eccentric adjuster is. Basically just slot the old hole (or drill new), and weld on a weld washer.
 
Stephen

Stephen

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J-mobzz said:
The bushing is on the knuckle side it looks like. If it was me I would move the bolt hole out how ever far is needed for the alignment? You could easily use a plate to support it and burn it on the outside of the arm. 1/4 plate on both sides and 1/2” longer bolt it’s not going anywhere.
Click to expand...

I Lean said:
This sounds like a really good idea. Especially if that outer bolt is just a bolt, and the inner bushing is where the eccentric adjuster is. Basically just slot the old hole (or drill new), and weld on a weld washer.
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On the knuckle side its just a bolt, yes. The subframe side has the adjustment via eccentric washers that sit inside a saddle.
So you're suggesting lengthening the arm by, say, an inch?
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
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Stephen said:
On the knuckle side its just a bolt, yes. The subframe side has the adjustment via eccentric washers that sit inside a saddle.
So you're suggesting lengthening the arm by, say, an inch?
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Exact amount of lengthening would be determined by your alignment needs. Ideally you'd be able to have it aligned closely with the cam bolts roughly in the center of its range.
 
J

J-mobzz

Well-Known Member
I don’t know how far out the toe is but I’m betting it will be more like 3/8 of an inch to fix it.
I would measure the coil bucket then model it in Cad at the different angles to see how much length was removed by the lift. You don’t have to model the actual arms just the pivot points to measure the geometry change during the suspension cycle. Or just put it on a simple fixture on a welding table at stock angle and move it up to match the lift angle and then make the changes.

I’ve built 4.5” over Ford ranger beams and a long travel kit for a sxs this way just fixturing it on a weld table then setting the lift, cut and turn.
 
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