Steve's 81 Toyota "angelo" build

[sixstringsteve]

This is my first big build where I've done more than install aftermarket lift kits. This build won't impress anyone on here, and my fab skills are novice at best. But I need a place to document my build, and RME has a bunch of nice guys, so here goes.

Starting with this:
1981 toyota shortbed 4x4

Here are my goals. It's nothing unique or special, but I figure it's worth documenting. I think every build should have a goal, otherwise you'll just keep building it up till it's a trailer queen (nothing wrong with that, I just don't want that to happen).

I bought this truck to do the rubicon with my brother. So it's gotta be street legal enough to get me to the rubicon (and Moab) and drive me to work 1 mile away. I like a strong truck, but I'm more of a finesse driver than a "hammer down" driver.

I MUST keep it street legal, and I can't stand the look of a flatbed, so the bed is staying on.

So here's my to-do list. This is more for me to see where I stand in the progress of my vehicle, and to give you an idea of what I plan to do.

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1.5" front wheel spacers - done
install rear springs up front (RUF), tweak pack as necessary - done
ubolt flip - done
install TG front hanger - done
Install PS conversion
Install hi-steer
install ram assist
install new PS box as far forward as possible
6-shooter knuckles and do a knuckle rebuild - done
install dirty 30s - done
truss, armor, and rebuild front axle - done
Install extended brake lines

DRIVETRAIN
new clutch - done
w56 swap - done
install dual cases - done
build t-case mount (based off FROR bracket) - done
raise drivetrain to be a flat belly - done
install HP with 5.29's and ARB or elocker
get drivelines lengthened (I'll probably have to get longer slip shafts, don't you think?)

INTERIOR
build tranny tunnel
tub firewall/inside kick panels
fix dented in section of the rear cab
cut out rust in floor and patch
make seat mounts and mount new seats
install new dash.

REAR PART OF VECHICLE

Throw in an IFS rear axle - done
5.29's with ARB
trail gear 3" leaves and 5" shackles - done
frame lengthen - done
longbed transplant with bob

ARMOUR
front winch bumper
homemade sliders
still unsure on rear bumper
a tasteful exo cage

OTHER
New Exhaust
New heater hoses

 

[sixstringsteve]

The previous seller posted the for sale pictures like this. Who leaves mud on the truck when you're trying to sell it?

Now that I think about it, the mud was probably to hide the crappy paint job. After a wash:

I'm trying to decide which way would be best to lengthen the wheelbase.

1) stretch the frame in front of the rear front hanger
2) move the rear hanger back, with a brace/mount for it and extend the rear of the frame.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I'm planning on doing a flat belly with a crossmember just like Dyzer's, except mine will be rotated 10 degrees. Here's his setup:

Quick question. I got this bracket to make my crossmember:

It's 3/8" thick (SUPER beefy). And I want to build my crossmember like this:

I plan on using 3/8" steel to connect it to my crossmember. Only problem is, my welder can't penetrate 3/8", so can I just thow a bead on each side of the crossmember to beef it up? I don't know if that question made sense or not.

tranny tunnel pics (not mine)

This is the goal:

 

[ricsrx]

Tack your crossmember together then take it to some one to weld.

 

[sixstringsteve]

My welder can weld 1/4", so if I hit it from each side I should be ok, right? Thanks Rick.

 

[SAMI]

One thing that you could look at doing, is to retain the factory length driveline when you add in the 2nd tcase. Move the spring hangers back and move the rear fender well back.

This is what was done on my old '85 4runner, and it was slick. It looked bobbed, but it wasn't. After a few years of bashing it into the rocks the body work started to go to hell. Molesting an '81 bed in that good of shape would be kinda sad to see.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Cool. I was thinking about that. How were your front hangers mounted? Did you fab up a mount for the hanger?

 

[bryson]

My welder can weld 1/4", so if I hit it from each side I should be ok, right? Thanks Rick.

If the welder does 1/4" nicely with good heat and penetration, I'd say you'd have no problem just welding both sides and calling it good.

 

[sixstringsteve]

yea, it does. It can do 5/16, but it takes stack welding. It'll do 3/16 to 1/4" cleanly. Thanks for the tips and advice.

 

[zukijames]

moving the front is alot more work with the ruf my might already have to shorten your pitman arm.. if you go farther you need to move your box forward.. or the drag link will cross the tie rod.. moving the front forward is better in my opinion because it centers the weight and looks cool. the back the farther back you go the less you will be witting your bed .. maybe do a little of both?

 

[sixstringsteve]

Yeah, that's the plan: a little of both. I'll be moving the front forward 2" and relocating my steering box. Stock wheelbase is 103, I want to be at 108-115, so I'll have to move the rear back at least 3 inches, but it'll be more like 6-8. I'll be bobbing my bed regardless. I can't decide which will be easier/better. I'll probably stretch the frame in front of the rear hangers.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Just got the crawl box put together tonight. Tomorrow I'll be bolting the two cases together and attaching to the transmission, and measuring up for the tranny tunnel.

 

[NACHO-YOTA]

Nice!!! I love that body style I have a '79 ,Chev 305, 40/over camel backs, RV 263 ruff gascet match port (for better fuel atomization, runnin a rebuilt 72 Corvett 650 rochester, th350, and a 205 tc. toyota axels w/ stock 438 gears.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Wow, that's a really clean '79 Nacho, I love it. Did you make it a 4-seater?

 

[Silly Willy]

To be honest I've never been a fan of Toyota's but I really like the body lines on this one.

If I were to buy one, I would defiantly be looking for one smiler to this.

Look forward to seeing it in the end of the build.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Thanks a lot. I love these 1st generation toyotas ('79-83), they have some awesome body lines. Love the round flared fenders. Love the round headlights and the front markers. I love these little guys.

 

[NACHO-YOTA]

Yeh, the seat is out of a 01 tracker. I needed a spot for the kids. I left the tracker brackets on it so it folds up against the front of the bed.

 

[sixstringsteve]

very cool.

 

[Panos]

if you are doing rears up front, then your axle will already be pushed forward a few inches, 3" i think. but everyones is different.I have a ifs steering box if you need. it will also need to be mounted, as far forward as you can get it. Use a kit from lowrange, its strong and cheap.

For the rear do some chevy 63's or just buy some after market leaf pack only 3 0r 4" to mach the rears up front. you can make your wheel base whatever you want now, because you will have to weld on new hangers front and rear.

The flat belly is the best mod i did to my runner. well worth cutting your floor up!
you can always make a new tunnle.

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if you are driving it on the street just have someone build your drivelines, get them balanced. it will be worth it on that long drive to the rubicon

good luck man, i love first gens.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Wow, that tunnel looks awesome. I'd love to see more pictures of that. How did you attach the carpet so well? What carpet is that?

Thanks for the encouragement. I have tacoma leaves and a longer shackle for the rear. I think I'll just build my own rear leaf pack till it sits and flexes the way I want it. I have a SKY front hanger (not installed yet). I'm thinking I"ll drop it just a little to give my pitman arm some more room, but I'm not an expert on these things so I'm not 100% decided on that.


I appreciate the offer for the IFS box, but I just bought a refurbished one from TG that's tapped for hydro assist. Today my high-steer, PS kit, and hydro assist came in the mail. Sorry I've been so lean on pictures, I'll get it some posted soon. All i've been doing is a tcase rebuild so far.