The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Damaged a couple parts, but managed to get the engine back in. Need to figure out how I rat nested my harness so bad, because it’s all twisted somehow.
Suzuki XL-7 build- “XL7-UP”
- Thread starter The_Lobbster
- Start date
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Started work on some boxed plate control arms. Originally wanted to use OEM rubber bushings, but finally decided poly is probably to be the best option. I’ve been eyeing duroflex joints as well.
I currently have ARB coils up front, which have a 540 ppi rating, and they seem extremely stiff. I have 2nd gen 2wd Tacoma coils I plan to swap in instead, which are rated 465 and about 1.5” longer than stock. Stock is 445.
I currently have ARB coils up front, which have a 540 ppi rating, and they seem extremely stiff. I have 2nd gen 2wd Tacoma coils I plan to swap in instead, which are rated 465 and about 1.5” longer than stock. Stock is 445.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
This is definitely a learning experience, trying to keep everything straight as I build the jig so that I can then take measurements, and flip it, to build the other side identical. It’s proving to be a challenge.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Are you going wider? Or what's the goal on lowers? More strength? Better BJ angle at lift?
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Around 1” wider and 1.5” forward on each side. They should hopefully be stronger than stock, and they’ll be serviceable. The OEM arms do not have replaceable joints.
Also, I hope to get a little better bj angle as well with the lift to promote a longer service life.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure I need a lung transplant with how much cut off disc dust I’ve breathed in working on these arms.
Slid some 1.5 dom into the 1.75 to keep everything aligned while I assemble. Really excited to see how these turn out!
I’m assembling everything with an edge stick out of approximately 1/4” to get a “tee” weld. Because, it gives me more flexibility in fitment, my bends made with a hammer and vise don’t have to be exact. It’ll also be easier for me to weld.
Slid some 1.5 dom into the 1.75 to keep everything aligned while I assemble. Really excited to see how these turn out!
I’m assembling everything with an edge stick out of approximately 1/4” to get a “tee” weld. Because, it gives me more flexibility in fitment, my bends made with a hammer and vise don’t have to be exact. It’ll also be easier for me to weld.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Couldn’t find any 4.5” ID pipe, so made my own for coil buckets. Also started on my rear receiver so I can hopefully bust out the rear bumper soon.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Doing some redesigning of my rear bumper plan. I will be moving the spare tire off the hatch, to the bumper. Need some input! The hatch swings open to the side, from the drivers side, hinged on the passenger side.
Should I have the carrier swing the same way as the door, or, should I put the pivot on the drivers side to oppose the hatch?
Should I have the carrier swing the same way as the door, or, should I put the pivot on the drivers side to oppose the hatch?
- Location
- Never Far From Nowhere
If you plan to use this is for Overlanding™, I'd put it on the driver side. That way when it swings out, you could have a table or something mounted on the back (really, the front) that folds down. That'd be +1000 Expo Points.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
I appreciate the trademark you put after overlanding.
I don't really plan to "OVERLAND", but I do intend to use this as a family camping rig to wheel with. Good thinking on the table. I think I'll just plan to do it on the drivers side.
- Location
- West Jordan
Why move it from the door? I hate having to open an tire carrier separately, and if it could be left on the door that would be worth +2000 Expo Points! If it's a strength issue with the door itself, could you reinforce it somehow?
There are also tire carriers that rely on the door latch mechanism for opening/closing, but still place the weight of the tire on a bumper mount, which is really the best of both worlds IMO. I know Cruiser Outfitters sells a bumper for 70 series Land Cruisers that works this way, and Teraflex has (or at least had?) a JK/JL offering that worked this way as well. The tire carrier opens when you open the gate/door.
There are also tire carriers that rely on the door latch mechanism for opening/closing, but still place the weight of the tire on a bumper mount, which is really the best of both worlds IMO. I know Cruiser Outfitters sells a bumper for 70 series Land Cruisers that works this way, and Teraflex has (or at least had?) a JK/JL offering that worked this way as well. The tire carrier opens when you open the gate/door.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Just a strength/fatigue concern of mine. The 32’s with steel wheel are considerably heavier than the stock tire. When I removed the carrier from the gate the other day, it was noticeably flimsy. I just worry over time it’ll crack. I suppose, I could try to get to it from the inside to see if I can brace it up. I’ll look into that before I build anything else!
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Halfway through construction of the drivers side arm.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I need/want to build similar, 3" longer A arms for my Bonneville... like seeing the progress!
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
Have I got news for you!
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
I’m just trying to mock the “overlanders” who can’t drive 20’ without making an instagram post about how they have no life responsibilities, live in a roof top tent, drink IPA’s, wear flannel, and have a golden doodle, Australian shepherd, etc.
To me, it’s just camping.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Originally I wanted the front bumper to be sort of modular. I now realized it’s so much easier to just weld the two portions together. I was able to weld the two halves, and cap the ends today. Before I welded the plates, I sprayed them both with steel-it to slow any rusting between the two. Additionally, I can BARELY squeeze my head lights in around the hoops. Something I hadn’t originally thought about when building it. Glad I don’t have to remove the bumper to change a light though!
I still need to build a front plate for the fairlead, and skid underneath, as well as drill 4 more holes on the bumper and the frame in order to actually mount it solid. Need a bar on each side too, down to the main plate for extra side strength.
I still need to build a front plate for the fairlead, and skid underneath, as well as drill 4 more holes on the bumper and the frame in order to actually mount it solid. Need a bar on each side too, down to the main plate for extra side strength.