Swapping Mini-truck axles into a FJ40

[Greg]

I have a friend building a FJ40 with a 4.3, 700R4 & NP231 T-Case. He is getting rid of the stock axles & wants to swap in something diffrent. He's leaning toward axles from a Early Bronco, but I've been trying to convince him to swap in Toyota Mini-truck axles.

Anyone know how difficult this is to do? I'm pretty sure the 'Cruiser will be setup SOA, so that's a good start.

Also, how wide are FJ40 axles? Is there a drastic diffrence in width between the Pickup axles??

 

[jp008]

Why not do some Waggy 44's? They are already offset to the pass-side.

 

[muleskinner]

The mini axles are actually wider, but I'm not sure how much. Not sure on the spring pad width... Kurt, chime in here and give up some specs I'd go with full width 3/4 ton Chevy if it were me (14b/44 or 60/44 or if he has the bling of course 60/60)

 

[bobdog]

What side drop is the 231? The early bronco front axle will be oposite of the toy wont they? I don't think the EB stuff is the hot ticket. The rears have small shafts, and the fronts have their faults too. There is a reason almost everyone that really wheels them has upgraded rear shafts and has F150stuff mixed into their fronts.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The mini-truck axles are the same width as a FJ40 width axle(approx 55.9" wms)... The FJ60 axles such as mine are 59" wms... closer to that of the IFS mini-rears @ 58.5" wms

I know several people that have gone to the mini stuff and then later had to upgrade to bigger stuff (D44/D66/14B)

The mini axle are great, but thinner housings (bend under the HEAVY cruisers weight, weaker pinions (break under the HEAVY cruisers weight), much small ring gear (breaks under HEAVY cruiser)...

I would highly recomend going with some HD axles such as D60/14B Combos...

 

[Greg]

Well, sadly, it's not being built for wheelin.

It's more of a frame-off resto, drive-around-town rig. I doubt it'll ever see much dirt. So, the worries here are keeping it street-legal, cheap & easy.

They'll use a Pass. drop T-Case, so Toy axles will work, if they go that way.

Kurt... I'll keep the light-weight thing in mind. How hard are FJ60 axles to find? Are they pretty costly, too?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Originally posted by Greg
...Kurt... I'll keep the light-weight thing in mind. How hard are FJ60 axles to find? Are they pretty costly, too?

Easier to find than a disc-brake FJ40 axle...

In all honesty why doesn't he just run the Cruiser Axles and t-case, you can put whatever you want in front of them... a single adapter and he can mate the 700r4 back to the LC t/c.

Running the FJ60 axles requires major spring/housing mods to get the spring to clear the front diff, so outboarding is almost required...

But, if it isn't going to see HD use, the mini axles will hold up fine... the shafts/birfs are the same diameter, its just the R&P and housings that lack in the bulge...

 

[theferg]

Originally posted by Greg
How hard are FJ60 axles to find? Are they pretty costly, too?

I have a feeling there might be four or five or so FJ60 rear axles up for sale sometime within the next YEAR or something

But I'm with Kurt on this one (he's a pretty smart cookie for the most part ), you should just use the cruiser axles (upgrade to disc brakes of course). Why even mess around with it if it's not gonna be wheeled? Drop in that V8 and 700R4, hook it to the stock t-case (or find a later years split case if your worried about it at all--but then again, you shouldn't be if it's barely ever gonna be wheeled), cut the drive shafts to length and fuggedaboutit. You'll be fine with up to ~35 inch tires. Save the money and time for a sweet paint job for Cruisin' main....

 

[Greg]

Originally posted by cruiseroutfit


Easier to find than a disc-brake FJ40 axle...

In all honesty why doesn't he just run the Cruiser Axles and t-case, you can put whatever you want in front of them... a single adapter and he can mate the 700r4 back to the LC t/c.

Running the FJ60 axles requires major spring/housing mods to get the spring to clear the front diff, so outboarding is almost required...

But, if it isn't going to see HD use, the mini axles will hold up fine... the shafts/birfs are the same diameter, its just the R&P and housings that lack in the bulge...

The main concern with the stock axles, is the rear offset diff. The 700R4 & NP231 are pretty long, so the rear driveshaft will end up being pretty short. I don't think he could run a compound angle with such a short driveline. Hence, the axle swap.

Perhaps I should recommend keeping the front axle & swapping in a Mini-truck rear axle?

 

[Greg]

Originally posted by theferg
But I'm with Kurt on this one (he's a pretty smart cookie for the most part ), you should just use the cruiser axles (upgrade to disc brakes of course). Why even mess around with it if it's not gonna be wheeled? Drop in that V8 and 700R4, hook it to the stock t-case (or find a later years split case if your worried about it at all--but then again, you shouldn't be if it's barely ever gonna be wheeled), cut the drive shafts to length and fuggedaboutit. You'll be fine with up to ~35 inch tires. Save the money and time for a sweet paint job for Cruisin' main....

My friend who's tackling this project found a source who will sell's complete drivetrain's from S-10 Blazers. Vortech 4.3, 700R4 & NP231 w/ wiring & computer, for $1,500. If they do this, then there's no need for a $500 adapter to keep old parts.


This isn't my project though, I'm just researching it!

 

[bobdog]

S10s are passenger drop? I was almost sure they were driver side.

 

[theferg]

Ah. I hear ya on the adapter... So is the NP231 a centered output then? Hmmm. I wouldn't want to put mini axles under a cruiser, but if he's *really* not gonna be wheelin' it too hard, then I'm sure it would work. You run a mini-truck yourself don't you Greg?--Or did? I would imagine you would know about what mini axles can take... Other than that, if you don't want to deal with the cruiser off-set diff, and get sketched on the mini axles, I say muleskinner has the right idea with the d44/d60 or d44/14b.

 

[Greg]

Originally posted by bobdog
S10s are passenger drop? I was almost sure they were driver side.

I have no idea, for sure... It's not my project, so I'm not 100% on all the details.

 

[Greg]

Originally posted by theferg
Ah. I hear ya on the adapter... So is the NP231 a centered output then? Hmmm. I wouldn't want to put mini axles under a cruiser, but if he's *really* not gonna be wheelin' it too hard, then I'm sure it would work. You run a mini-truck yourself don't you Greg?--Or did? I would imagine you would know about what mini axles can take... Other than that, if you don't want to deal with the cruiser off-set diff, and get sketched on the mini axles, I say muleskinner has the right idea with the d44/d60 or d44/14b.

Yeah, I ran... er, run a '85 Toyota P/U.

Personally, I think the Shafts are up to just about anything I could dish out. I've ran the Helldorados, Lower Proving Grounds, Pritchett, etc.... on 37's and never have had a shaft problem. I could see the Housing causing trouble under a heavy Cruiser, but I'm pretty sure the mini-truck rear axle will be plenty for this project.

The guys building it are trying to keep the axle expense under $300 total, so options are very limited. If that weren't the case, full width 1 Ton axles would be the first logical choice.