t-case experts please chime in

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
okay so i took out my 231 and tranny to do some work on the tranny cause of the popping noise and to change the clutch at the same time. anyway i think that my chain was just stretched cause it only does it in 4wd really and it seems to be mainly the front shaft.
so i took it out and looked at the chain and compared it to the new one and the old one is a bit looser. but, i figure it will stretch a lot more when there is some stress on it, compared to the new one. the inside of the case by the front output is also a little scratched, no big deal. the gears look good though and don't seem worn and everything else looks good inside. i took pictures of it with the new chain on and i was wondering if the chain is supposed to be just a little loose, like enough to bend it into the middle like i did in the pic. the front shaft bearings are good though, and the shaft has no real play in either one.
on the subject of the tranny, it was dirty, especially the clutch housing...its a mess. i think my rear main is bad too cause oil is everywhere back there. and about the clutch, i am no expert on clutches, but it looks okay to me. the fingers aren't bent they are just a little worn. the other centerforce i have is in about the same condition really. i do think i need a new bearing, i can't think of what it is called, the one that presses on the clutch. tell me what you think of the clutch, i could change it when i do the rear main anyway. i wonder how big of a pain the rear main is? i bet it sucks.


anyway the page is in my sig, and the pics are in 7)transfercase and tranny/clutch.
thanks for your help,
nate
 
P

pokeyYJ

Guest
Originally posted by xj_punk
t-case experts please chime in

"An expert is somebody who learns more and more about less and less until one day they know absolutely everything about nothing."
 

James K

NO, I'm always like this
Location
Taylorsville, Ut
Originally posted by pokeyYJ


"An expert is somebody who learns more and more about less and less until one day they know absolutely everything about nothing."


I have no tech to add. So this is the response I give:confused:
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
thanks guys, even though your responses were not as helpful as i would like i still find them humorous.

i believe it is the throwout bearing, the one that sits on the shaft on the front of the tranny and pushes on the clutch. it looks worn and my jeep made a weird little faint clicking sound that my uncle said was the clutch. when i pushed in the clutch it goes away.

sorry about putting it in the wrong dept. but everyone always seems to post the wrong things in the wrong places... and besides that, does anyone besides me and a couple others go into the tech dept? i just want people to read it, someone has to have some helpful information about it.

thanks,
nate

p.s. experts are dicks aren't they? they always either act like they know a lot more than you about something and then they don't help or they act like they don't know. damn you experts!
 
Location
Murray
When I replaced the chain in my T-case it didn't have that much play in the chain, just a little but not enough to where you could squeeze the chain in. Also I'm noticing that you have the 4:1 low range in it. Who makes it? Maybe Tera? You might want to look into that and see if it's a possibility that there's something wrong with that. It may be that it's not your front driveline that's the problem. Your sig says you've got a locker in the front, it's a lockright right? That would be one reason the driveshaft jolts when you put it in gear, the centerpin has more room to lash and so you have more driveshaft play.
Since you have the trans out you might as well replace the clutch, it'll need it sooner or later, if there's a pilot bushing or bearing make sure you replace it with the rest of things or you'll be doing it again in a few months.
Anyway, that's my .02. Let me know what you find out.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
i don't know that there is anything wrong with the chain, i am sure it has to have some play in it, but how much is too much? the rest of the t-case seems perfectly fine, it is tera-low and it is in great shape, it is brand new!

the other centerforce i have has less wear than that one, but not by a whole lot really. i think i might replace it anyway, and replace all of the parts for sure because i don't want to have to do it again in a month like you said.

all in all, i have no problem with putting the t-case back in and seeing if it works. if it doesn't work, it is not like it is a big deal to take it back out. and if i have to take it back out i will have someone look at it, possibly j.r.
but, i have to do the clutch work, the rear main and the oil pan so it will be out till this weekend cause work SUCKS!
 

PBF

98 TJ, 37" MTR's, 7" Lift
A streched chain is difficult to see when the new and old are but side to side (my personal experience). I have fixed three 231 t-cases with similar problems (as I invented the 4 to1 t-case I have the working knowledge).

I never understood what the actual problem with the chain was, but it worked when it was replaced. The chain will strech a little tighter when the front output shaft is installed and slipped into its mating bearing in the back case half. If you still have the problem after replacing the chain e-mail me.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
wow you invented the 4 to 1? are you rich? hehe

yeah, i realize that it will have more tension once the shaft is in bothof the bearings. i made sure that the bearings are still tight on both sides of the case...they are in good condition.
thanks for helping out, and if it still has problems i will let you know and you can fix it for me.

thanks,
nate
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
want me to "get rid of her"... jk

thats cool what else did you invent? hey keep inventing stuff and i will test it for you free of charge... that would be so cool!

-nate
 
S

sukaB

Guest
Change that front output bearing while your replacing the chain and the rear pocket bearing while your at it there cheap...
If you need help I'll asist you
You didnt just buy that tera low did you?

Ohh yah
I've been fixing the broken 4 to 1's that broke for over 8 years now...
231's are my specialty..I have tons of parts laying around here.
 

PBF

98 TJ, 37" MTR's, 7" Lift
No, She is still watch'n my two boys, but wait, I'm still pay'n support....let me think about it ...

I also did the Klune Crawler and the Warn Front Hub Kits....

I am always looking for 231 parts.. thanks for the input...:rofl:

I have about a dozen new parts for my TJ I have made, I'm using my 98 TJ as a test bed...but I will keep you in mind.

I do not make competion parts just daily driver and beat the hell out of it on the weekend stuff. Latest project has been antisquat calculations with the jeep in a "vertical mode" (standing straight up on the rear wheels). I think it would be of some use for the comp boys, but they seem to already know everything about everything.

I have been screwing with the TJ suspension for about 3 months to get the 37" Goodyears fit and work'n well. Ready to go to Moab and Canyon Land next week for another shake down.

:D :D :D
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
suka-
yeah i bought the teralow like 6 months ago during the buildup and i haven't even got to wheel it yet cause now i have it out. is changing the bearings tough? how in the world do i manage to get them out, a bearing puller? i would like to change them though, because they are what holds the front output together. by the way, do teralows bust a lot? thats the way you make it sound...if this $1000 piece of machinery breaks i am going to throw it through tera's window! (and then ask for a refund politely) ;)
 

PBF

98 TJ, 37" MTR's, 7" Lift
Not to butt in, but the 4 to 1 was designed in 1993 years before any rock crawling competion existed. Back then Prichard and 33" were the top of 4 wheeling. It was never designed for 35" tires let alone 38 swampers. It was designed for a YJ, 6 cylinder, 33" tires and an automatic (mine).

Harold Off (Farmington NM) wanted one for his CJ8 with a 401 V8 and 35" tires. Needless to say it broke along with many many others. The Altas and TJ Rubicon T- case are direct decendants from it. I visited NV to show their Enginering staff how it worked and had a visit in SLC from the owners of AA on the same subject.

The Klune Crawler was its replacement I made for the big boys toys (and still is). I have a 3.5 ratio 231 in the garage I ran in a 1/2 ton chev for two years (still not broken!!). It was redesigned for more strength before Terra had the 4 to 1 ratio redesigned by Mile Marker and made in China.

Remember the 4 to 1 231 t-case was designed for a YJ, 6 cylinder, 33" tires and an automatic . What you have for a T-case will BREAK. It is not designed for what you are going to use it for.

Sell it today and get an Atlas, Klune, or a Rubi T-case. You made a bad choice because you didn't have the correct information (not your fault).

A lot of hype and ****t flow freely on the BB, the magazines, and the manufactures adds (when was the last time you read a bad review in a magazine???).

Brandon is a smart guy and he has had to try and break stuff and to find what work well for competition (why yes, that' is a complement). He deserves to be heard and listened to as he has walked the walk (but still may have a little more to learn).
 
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