Tech tip: Penetrating oil test results

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
eh, where are you getting that spec from??

on a related note, ARP has been quietly working on torque tables for their new, specially formulated assembly oil, designed to eliminate metal-to-metal binding and give repeatable results. ;)
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
The silver anti-seize is a great preventive measure. It works for lug nuts, frame bolts, rubber bushing bolts, TRE's, etc. Remember to reduce torque by 45%; otherwise, the threads may strip.

One must be cautious in reducing torque 45%, particularly in clamping applications such as knuckles, hubs, steering arms, etc. I'd love to see an authoritative source on exactly how much to reduce, I've read as little as 20% and as much as 50%.
 
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WillyLin

Member
Location
SLC
Interesting....
what would be the best thing to use on the rusted brake caliper bleeder ? I've broken many of them already...
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Interesting....
what would be the best thing to use on the rusted brake caliper bleeder ? I've broken many of them already...

PB Blast, in my experience, but it won't happen right away. When I know I'm going to run into rusted fittings, I like to hit them with PB a couple times a day for at least a couple days before I tackle the job, they seem to come free a lot easier when I do.
 

skeptic

Registered User
Wow, surprising results. PB blaster, often letting it sit a while, has always been my go-to option. I'm surprised how poorly it did in the test. Kinda makes me wonder if they'd have different results if they included a 24 hour soak.
 

flexyfool

GDW
Location
Boise, Idaho
One must be cautious in reducing torque 45%, particularly in clamping applications such as knuckles, hubs, steering arms, etc. I'd love to see an authoritative source on exactly how much to reduce, I've read as little as 20% and as much as 50%.

Good point. Loc-tite rather than anti-seize is better for the items you mention that may unscrew. It also prevents corrosion. Sometimes you find yourself debating whether to grab the anti-seize (messy but comes apart easy later) or the loc-tite (expensive and needs heat to come apart).

You definitely need to drop the torque with anti-seize. I've forgotten a couple times and stripped the threads.
 

mombobuggy

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Good info always like the hillbilly way that works as well or better for less coin. I have always had good luck with service removable blue loctite. And very rarely use red heat recomended for removal. Or green bearing mount for mercedes engines and dana 70 s that have spun the carrier bearings.
 

Brad J

Registered User
Location
Woods Cross, UT
Interesting....
what would be the best thing to use on the rusted brake caliper bleeder ? I've broken many of them already...

I used PB Blaster days before (like Kevin B mentioned) but no luck so heated them up with a propane torch & got all to break loose. Lots of Youtube videos of people doing it that way and it working great. I usually have great luck with PB Blaster but not by itself on my dad's 71 F250.
 

oldbluechevy78

Registered User
Location
Utah, Payson
I was wondering if anyone had tried WD-40's new penetrating oil yet? I've seen it advertised on the tv and just wondering if it worked. I know the regular WD-40 isn't that great.
 
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