The Budget Buggy - Take Two

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
I also got the rear rotors on (I had been waiting for a while so they wouldnt rust) I also went with some 1-1/4" rear spacers rather than the 2" one I had on there. After measuring, once the rotors, and spacers were on from WMS-WMS the rear would have been almost 2" wider than the front, now it is about an inch narrower than the front, and should still clear the airshocks once it is flexed out.

Your math is... well, different. But the buggy looks good!
 

Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
I am not an expert but it seems like on a full hydro double end ram system you need a little angle from ram end to the knuckle... Basically so its not straight across...

I can't remember the exact name, hope this is clear enough for someone to chime in and hopefully avoid a headache...
 

Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Lehi, UT
Your math is... well, different. But the buggy looks good!

Haha, I was never good at math, but I couldnt remember the exact numbers from Saturday, but once the spacers and everything were on, the rear was wider than the front, so I narrowed it down with the spacers. If that makes sense?

I am not an expert but it seems like on a full hydro double end ram system you need a little angle from ram end to the knuckle... Basically so its not straight across...

I can't remember the exact name, hope this is clear enough for someone to chime in and hopefully avoid a headache... looking awesome by the way! :D



The ram does have some angle to it, everyone prefers the ram to be further back, then the arms linking them to be on an angle outwards. You can mount them straight or even have the ram further forward, but it isnt the preferred method. My first mount was like that, but with this one I changed it up so it has some angle to it.
 

Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Lehi, UT
Been working on it over the week, got the propane/carb setup on, but it has a shut off valve that goes down to a barbed fitting, and that is in the way of the throttle linkage. I am thinking that since I will have an electric solenoid powered shutoff, and I can always turn off the tank, I will ditch that valve, and put the barbed fitting right on the back of the hat, and it will get everything out of the way of the throttle. I am hoping to have it running very soon :D

I also got my Trail-Gear Rear Disconnect in last night

 
R

rockdog

Guest
Coltan, build something in front of your ram to protect it. You will bash into every rock in front of you. (Well at least I do )
 

Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Lehi, UT
I leaned the ram way back this time around on the mount, so the mount hits first, but if it is still close, I will be building a protection bar.

Well wired a lot of of the buggy this weekend, was hoping to get it running, but my propane mixer was allowing full tank pressure into the carb, so I didnt get it running :( it cranks and everything, but with that much pressure, I didnt dare fire it. It sputtered a couple times when the propane was off, and we let it 'drain' a bit. Yesterday I wired up the rear lightbar and built the harness. The buggy is pretty much ready to pull all the wiring, and harness it up. I need to run a couple more wires for the alternator charging, and the gauges, but that is it. Once the propane mixer is fixed (going to be doing some research on it today) it should be running really soon depending on the extent of the mixer problem.
 

Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Lehi, UT
Yeah hopefully this propane deal isnt a huge deal, and it can be running this week.

Anyone in Utah carry Impco Model L rebuild kits or replacements?
 

STAG

Well-Known Member
Colton if Ryan is up for it (not guaranteeing he would be) I could arrange to pick up his HF kinker from him, deliver it to you for use, and return it when finished.
 

skippy

Pretend Fabricator
Location
Tooele
Paging Skippy!

I would normally be ok with something like this but its welded to a very heavy table....As we know the HF tools arent exactly strong and the whole base started to tweak, so i welded it to a heavy duty table to keep the base flat and added some gussets.
 

Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Lehi, UT
So any Toyota experts got some options on how I need to wire up my autometer gauges to make them work with stock sensors and such? Not sure how I need to go about this :confused:
 
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