The shaft on Safety/IM

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
So I got stomped on...

Failed Safety:
Crack in drivers door mirror
Can't see the "ASI Tempered Glass" mark on my windsheild??? WTF?

Failed IM:
9.99 on both CO tests? My cruiser runs fine (same as always) and passed with 1/4 of that last go around (9 months ago).

So, off to find out why things went south...
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
crimsonride said:
Wow, my drivers mirror has been cracked for like ten years and nobody's said anything to me.

No kidding... and no saying "ASI" on the windsheild... he recomended I pull of the W/S to see if it were there, or call the glass place I bought it from 5 years ago and complain...

Thought they were going to be a decent place.... :(

Suggestions on the extremely high CO's? Obviously running rich, but why?
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Your windshield is not tempered. It is annealed laminated. Laminated windshield glass has a "Bug" or "Logo" on it stating some info on what class it is rated in and such. Tempered glass also has this bug, and we would put it on with an acid etch stamp before tempering the glass. Sometimes it would rub off after being tempered :eek: Windshields are not tempered. If you want to make him feel like an ass, ask him how a tempered window would keep you in the vehicle in head on collision.
 
Last edited:

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
my parents had a cherokee that would run high in the COs like that, what they always did was pour a gallon of race fuel in their tank (mixing with a full tank of regular fuel) then go run it for like an hour hard down the freeway and take it straight in to get tested when it was nice and hot, pssed with flying colors everytime...
 

74highboy

Registered User
Location
slc
cycle house on state street between 45th south and 39th south in that area its on the east side of the road and its like 20 bucks a gallon
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
rusted said:
Who sells race fuel?

Kurt, I'm your race fuel hookup if you decide to give it a try. Whether or not thats the best solution, I'm not sure... BTW, there's no need to pay more than $4.50 to $5 per gallon for anyone.
 
Last edited:

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
Thanks for the suggestions... I have never tried the race fuel approach, but know many that have made it work. I am more worried about why it is so high, and its results on my fuel economy.

I need to find the receipt of the place that did my windsheild install... mabey they can still etch it?
 

RKCRWLR

Active Member
Location
Sandy, UT
From a state web site:

Probable causes for high CO in order of most common problems:
Rich Fuel Mixture
Plugged PCV Valve or fuel in the crankcase ventilation system
Dirty Air Filter
Malfunctioning closed-loop fuel metering system
Saturated fuel evaporation canister or malfunctioning vapor purge system

Don't know the model engine you have, but in my 93 YJ case, it was a broken wire on the O2 sensor causing the thing to run way rich.
 

Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
So Kurt what shop? (if you don't mind,)

If you say David Early/Firestone on 123rd in Draper, I already know they are a bunch of crooks. :rolleyes:

I register 4 personal vehicles a year plus company stuff and it sound like you have a shop to stay away from...
 

EZRhino

KalishnaKitty
Location
Sandy, UT
Wait.......if you already failed at one shop, I don't think the system will allow you go to another place. I think you have to go back to the original place.

EZ
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
EZRhino said:
Wait.......if you already failed at one shop, I don't think the system will allow you go to another place. I think you have to go back to the original place.

EZ
If that were true, they would have to warn the consumer. I do not recall seeing or hearing of any warning. You would just have to pay full price at the next station. I do not doubt that the state tracks these things, but it can't be illegal.
 

EZRhino

KalishnaKitty
Location
Sandy, UT
As you know, all results of tests are tracked through the state's database. I think it would be suspicious if one shop fails several things and then a day later another shop passes the same vehicle.

Hmm.....on second thought......not sure if safety issues are tracked; pretty sure that emissions are though. Too bad that some shops are so anal about certain things. In fact, if it were me I'd download the Utah code and make sure that the things they are failing you for are really things in the law.

EZ
 

kowe69

wannabe
I am a certified state safety and I/M inspector. Safety info is tracked by the Utah highway patrol database over the web. If you go somewhere else and they pass your vehicle without repairs being made the HP will know about it. The same goes for I/M which is tracked the the county you live in. But you don't have to disclose what (if any) repairs were made to the inspector when you retest. Forget the race fuel, that is to expensive. Just run your fuel tank down to just above empty and add a few bottles of rubbing alcohol and it should pass fine. (you did't hear that from me!) ;)
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
I am glad you guys are talking about this.

I am moving to West Valley in a few weeks and i think i will have issues with both of my vehicles.

the first one is an 87 ford bronco with a EFI 460 where a 300-6 was. it burns really clean. i was told by a jiffy lube guy that they won't even test it because of the motor swap. down here it passed the sniffer test for a 96 bronco. also it now has a leaf sprung d60 under the front and 37 inch goodyears.

for the saftey inspection are there bumper height laws?
headlight height laws?
mud flap laws?
anything else other than having mirrors and an ansi windsheild?

ok my daily driver is a 1990 taurus, it will pass emmisions
my windsheild wiper switch is jacked and requires a "bump" to make the wipers go.
one of my headlight besels is busted and the light is actually held in with duct tape.
my rack and pinion is pretty worn and kinda feels like it needs to be replaced (so how intense is the saftey inspection)

btw i am from Abq NM, and here is my truck;
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=194

thanks
nathan
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
thenag said:
I am glad you guys are talking about this.

I am moving to West Valley in a few weeks and i think i will have issues with both of my vehicles.

the first one is an 87 ford bronco with a EFI 460 where a 300-6 was. it burns really clean. i was told by a jiffy lube guy that they won't even test it because of the motor swap. down here it passed the sniffer test for a 96 bronco. also it now has a leaf sprung d60 under the front and 37 inch goodyears.

for the saftey inspection are there bumper height laws?
headlight height laws?
mud flap laws?
anything else other than having mirrors and an ansi windsheild?

ok my daily driver is a 1990 taurus, it will pass emmisions
my windsheild wiper switch is jacked and requires a "bump" to make the wipers go.
one of my headlight besels is busted and the light is actually held in with duct tape.
my rack and pinion is pretty worn and kinda feels like it needs to be replaced (so how intense is the saftey inspection)

btw i am from Abq NM, and here is my truck;
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=194

thanks
nathan

You may have trouble, but what I really want to know about is the York. Did you fab the bracket or did you buy? It looks to be Vbelt driven what pulley drives it?
 

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
bobdog said:
You may have trouble, but what I really want to know about is the York. Did you fab the bracket or did you buy? It looks to be Vbelt driven what pulley drives it?

seriously of almost 3000 members you ask the guy who has had one post.

yeah custom york brackets

the pully is a combo pulley from kilby it is the most expensive single part in the system.
http://www.onboardair.com/new-accessories.htm

i have a 2.5 gallon tank under the truck and an 11 gallon that i can put inline which i need when i run drills or ratchets. the 2.5 is just about enough to keep up with my impact. (changing a tire goes something like this; oh crap that will be expensive, turn on compresor, get out tools hi lift, use impact to remove spare tire, jack up truck, pull 8 lugnuts off with impact, have to wait a couple of seconds for presure to build up before i can break the the last one or two, ***** about how heavy my tires/wheels are, run the lugnuts back on, again waiting for presure to build for the last one or two, put thrashed tire on spare tire carrier, put up tools get back in and go)

now can somebody help me with my emmissons and saftey inspection question :)

nathan
 
Top