To 60 or To Not 60

[N-Smooth]

How much cheaper would it have been to get 44's instead?

i'm into my front 44 about 650 total.
that includes:
junkyard d44 100ish
new gears+install 200ish
all new brakes 100ish
new balljoints 100ish
cheap locker+install 150ish

that is noticeably cheaper than the initial cost of a 60, not to mention upgrades. until i break it, i am totally happy. my rig is a lightweight, but i have abused it pretty good

p.s. rear 44's are practically given away, especially if you go with a spool like i did.

 

[KToy]

well i have a d44 HP out of a 3/4 suburban. im into my axle this much

axle-50$
locker arb-300$
ujoints -22$
gears -170$
install kit master - 100$
have it installed-350$

basicaly 1000 bux. i have been running it pretty hard and im a skinny pedal person and have broke a ring and pinion. (before i got the gears and the reason for them. they were the stock 77 suburban gears)

and a ujoint this weekend which in turn ruined my outer shaft on the 44.

i like the 44 cuz its got good clearance. and im into it a fair amount of money. but i would of loved a d60 but if i had bought a d60

d60 - 800 bux
arb - 500-600 depending
gears - 150-200
install kit 100-
then installation - 150-350


thast a lot more than i have into my d44

thats like 2000 bux. so feel pretty good about my invenstment. after i get new joint and axleshafts ill be into it another 600 but its going to be plenty strong and i wont have to worry about it again. if i wanted to sell it i guess i could and get a 60, but i got the 44 for pretty cheap.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

we ran that in the comp buggy and still broke alot r&ps and sheared a pinion off.

We (Carl and I) ran the comps and NEVER broke a rear Toyota axle... Carl finally broke it after literally dozens of wheeling trips, several Toyota T-cases, a Dana 300 case , and a SINGLE birf...

 

[mbryson]

well i have a d44 HP out of a 3/4 suburban. im into my axle this much
...............

High pinion Suburban?????????

 

[Tacoma]

I think he means HD ...


14 bolts are a good choice, just big. And who runs the drums? so there's a couple bucks there for brackets, calipers, and rotors, but not much.

To continue the deviation, I got the CUCV 60/14bolt combo, locked, 4.56's, for $1600 and felt ok about it. Stock shafts, etc and I still need hubs. Contrast that with the 44hd/14bolt combo, 4.10s', that I paid an astronomical $700 for. And that's just to start.
Hubs are radically more expensive for the 60, as you can get 44 hubs used all over the place. New? well, maybe the 60 hubs aren't THAT much more but considering that the 30% increase pretty much goes for ALL 60 parts, at least, there you go. And 60's always end up being more than 30% more expensive when you get done hotrodding them.
And then you have to factor in all the stuff that goes WITH a 60: the bigass tires, the bigger engine, HD steering etc etc that you might not find necessary running a 44. The hidden costs you might say.
Sure you can get deals.... but anyway. Another argument indeed! hahah

Personally, 60's and bigger are about the most logical thing HERE. If I was running a Toyota on anything bigger than 36's, I'd probably say the same.

 

[KToy]

yes i ment hd

 

[I Lean]

We (Carl and I) ran the comps and NEVER broke a rear Toyota axle... Carl finally broke it after literally dozens of wheeling trips, several Toyota T-cases, a Dana 300 case , and a SINGLE birf...

Add a couple TH 350's, and make it two birfs...one was cracked when I took it out. It was still working, so we didn't know anything was wrong yet.

And to weigh in on this arguement, I prefer 60's to 44's. My opinion, a dead-stock junkyard 60 with nothing rebuilt is still quite a bit stronger than an alloy-shafted, CTM jointed 44.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Add a couple TH 350's, and make it two birfs...one was cracked when I took it out. It was still working, so we didn't know anything was wrong yet. ...

Forgot about the wrath of the TH350's...

 

[rockdog]

Add a couple TH 350's, and make it two birfs...one was cracked when I took it out. It was still working, so we didn't know anything was wrong yet.

And to weigh in on this arguement, I prefer 60's to 44's. My opinion, a dead-stock junkyard 60 with nothing rebuilt is still quite a bit stronger than an alloy-shafted, CTM jointed 44.

I know several guys who are running stock 60s, myself included.I've seen them put thru major abuse and not break. Seen four links torn from frames,dana 300s munched,front drive lines snap.The stock 60 just keeps on ticken. I seriously considered a 44 with hardened shafts and ctms, until I priced everything to do it. If you are starting from scratch, the 60 is a no brainer. If you already have a 44 under your rig, that might be a differant can of worms. Just my opinion. Its a little buyessed(sp) I love my 60.

 

[Tacoma]

>>Full set of CTM 300M alloy D60 front axles with
joints: $3000.00<<


YIKES! That's more than the whole truck so far. I didnt' have the 44 price on hand hahah


Those CTM joints are nice but $250 a pop? ouch.

 

[mbryson]

.........Those CTM joints are nice but $250 a pop? ouch.

Very cool, though. I've put a joint back in AFTER it snapped a Warn outer
(D44)

 

[Tacoma]

heheh really? that's pretty cool indeed.

and it inspires me to post on a related issue..... but that's another.. uh post

 

[RamToy]

Wow ~ Check out those results.

Update.

Another Longfield Busted today @ Desert Mnt.

So thats 2 Hardened longs in a 2 week period and thats more than enough for me.

























































































Ohh ya The D60 sitting on my garage floor will be going under soon. :greg:

 

[KToy]

where are the pics.

 

[bryson]

Ohh ya The D60 sitting on my garage floor will be going under soon. :greg:

Good boy...


What the crap is with Cody voting for a 60??? Did he finally hit his head hard enough to realize he needs one???