toyota options

[chadschoon]

my buddy wants to build his toyota into a rock crawler. it had ifs and we would like to put a straight axel under it. the only thing is neither of us have changed out an ifs rig, so i take it we would have to put a new transfercase in and everything? any help would be great, and if any of you have any parts you want to sell or get rid of let me no.

thanks
chad

 

[gorillaxj]

i have helped a friend do this convertion and you can get a kit to do so for about 1200 dollers for the complete thing at allpro.com i would check that aout. they can tell you all you need to know. you can use your existing T case too.it was a huge change for the better. good luck

 

[gorillaxj]

sorry the adress is http://www.allprooffroad.com/

 

[RamToy]

my buddy wants to build his toyota into a rock crawler. it had ifs and we would like to put a straight axel under it. the only thing is neither of us have changed out an ifs rig, so i take it we would have to put a new transfercase in and everything? any help would be great, and if any of you have any parts you want to sell or get rid of let me no.

thanks
chad

Got a SAS spring hanger for sale. To get ya started.

And ive done a few of these. So im sure ive got some parts lingering around that you could use.

 

[chadschoon]

cool ya let me no what you have laying around

 

[Greg]

I'd consider using a Dana 44 in the front, cheaper to get parts for & I think a 44 is about the perfect width under a Toy.

Here's my '87 that was SAS'd. I didn't cut out the IFS parts, but I did decide to go with a 44 for the width, ease of getting parts & cheaper overall cost. (Don't mind the 32's... )

More pics


I used a Chevy 44 (Six lug axle, so no wheel swapping). I narrowed mine 3" on the long side, for 64" wide total. Here's more info about cutting down 44's for your width- Dana 44 narrowing

 

[Greg]

Oh, you don't need to replace the T-Case... matter of fact, hold onto the front driveshaft that it currently has. It should be a CV shaft, which is desirable. You can just have it lenghtned when you get the axle in.

Cutting out all the IFS bracketry will take you awhile, be prepared to spend a 1/2 day with the grinder. I have heard of a certain shop (RL) setting up the proper mounts for leafs, in a IFS Toy before the IFS was hacked out. Makes for a easy, well excecuted swap. Just something to think about.

 

[chadschoon]

hey thanks greg that helps alot

 

[94redtoy]

dont go full width. too much to worry about, imho looks retarded with that much axle sticking out. theres too many kits out there to use the old toy front axle (79-85). stay toy. i just did my swap with marlins kit, www.marlincrawler.com. real easy.

 

[KToy]

i disagree. i think d44 are cheaper and easier to find. also i think d44 are a bit stronger stock. plus you can get them in the same lug pattern. also you can ger d44 narrowed or you can find them already narrow. the nice thing about a d44 is the ujoints compared to a birf.... i dislike birfs.

also the d44 is a heavier axle and you can get some really good unsprung weight with a d44 and it helps a lot to keep your center of gravity down.

 

[Greg]

We can argue Toy axle vs Dana 44 all day, but all I can say is I had a Toy axle for sometime and didn't care for the final cost of building it. I built my old Toy axle "cheap" & still ended up with about $1200 into it.

Example... buying steering, you HAVE to replace Birfs if you're going to wheel it, then you still have a narrow axle and couldn't do much about it. I'm looking forward to the width, ease of parts availability and inxpensive costs to build.

I haven't bought gears & a locker yet, but including the axle and the crossover steering I might be into my Dana 44 $250-300(including machine work for the X-over). Locker for $250 + gears for $180 and I should be done. Thats $730 for a stronger, wider axle with stock or aftermarket parts readily available.

Mine may look funny with the width, but there are more options for narrowing it further. I think I'm going to enjoy the stability of 64" WMS. I've had a Toy axle under a rig, now I want to try other options.

 

[Klif01]

I think I'm into my toy front about 1000 as it sits with crossover, longs, and a locker. If I could do it again, I would get me a 44 for the width. However mine doesn't have the worst stance with the 2" bs wheels, it would definitely be nicer to be wider!

 

[Max Power]

I solid axled my toy with the allpro kit and I love it. I used a toy axle it has 5.29 and a e-z locker. I havent had any problems with anything so far. If you are looking for a cleaner install with less hassle(shortening axles) I would stick with toyota axles. If you are worried about birfields there are eliminator kits available. Also Allpro has install instructions on their web site. www.allprooffroad.com. Good luck.

 

[KToy]

whats the point of a birfield eliminator kit???

all that is is a d44 that is narrow.

by the way mine is the 8 lug d44 and i have a 69.5 WMS to WMS. and i love it.

i have a great center of gravity and 12 inches of lift and i am going bigger and what not with bigger tires.

i dont think wider is goofy looking at all. wait till he gets his 37's on his d44 and it will not be wide enough.


here is an example. friend A has a toy axle with longfields, arb, 5:29's. he breaks 3 birfields in 3 trips. (2 longs and one stock) . his outer lugs on his tire measure 81 inches exactly what mine measures. he has 1.5 inch spacers. and the most back spaced 10 inch rims i seen. he also has 35x15.50x15's. and hes breaking birfields left and right. i also forgot he has hydro assist.

now my setup. d44 3/4ton 37x12.50x17. i have broken 2 ujoints an due to one ujiont and axle shaft. in the last year of about 15 wheeling trips. mine measures 81 inches outside lug to outside lug on out tires.

point being. you can make a toy axle wide with certain qualitys. like his truck. but you put so much stress on the birfs you tend to break them. as far as being too wide. well i think in 90 percent of trails and obstacles you want to be wide and a narrow light body.

unsprung weight is nice

by the way Friend A has a d60 up front now 69.5 wms to wms.

 

[94redtoy]

yeah so basically this subject can get beat to death all day long. its all how you wheel how you drive and what you prefer. personally, i like to stay toy, and i like the smaller stance. thats my preference. theres drawbacks to just about everything out there, so just research and see if you cant find cheap parts.

 

[Skyetone]

one real difference is ease. The toy axle is a bolt in. But yes with wide tires, you will rub frame.
Greg did you bring the front hanger forward? I do see its a wider front hanger. Is that home grown? Most toy swaps bring the front end a little forward for aproach angle.
Attilia, I see you kept stock toyota width hangers. Any issues with that?

What axle is more available to you? Thats really where it starts. One thing that got passed quickly...... You can get a shop to fab the hangers for the SAS BEFORE you cut anything. then you don't have to worrie if you cant finish right away. Minus shock mounts, you can drive it.
Look around for a few, parts are always for sale cheeper than new, cuz some guys either upgrade, or get out of the game and part there stuff out....

 

[KToy]

DING DING DING WE HAVE A WINNER.

yup all PERSONAL PREF.


our group break birfs. so we use dana's

 

[KToy]

my hanger is wider than a stock one. buy about 3 inches.

my springs are what you call outbaord.

i hang a spring hanger on a bracket below my frame because of the wider axle.