TY-J already built thread

[corbin.black]

I guess I should probably look for a 6.0 although a 5.3 would be sufficient. But for what you get for an extra $500 for a 6.0 it is worth it. I have a guy that only does motor swaps. He has quoted me $5000 for a 5.3 or $5500 for a 6.0. That includes everything to get me running including a th400, the adapter to the 231/300, custom harness, and anything else needed to get me on the trail.

The price difference is worth it in my opinion. Does the "guy" have any contact information? I currently have a TJ with no drivetrain and those sound like very reasonable prices.

 

[Gravy]

you'll likely be putting in a new tcase crossmember, and driveshafts because the engine and trans combo will be a different length.

Not to mention chopping up the whole front end to fit the motor, and possibly new upper links to fit around the bigger motor... etc...

 

[Cascadia]

It will still be a while that's why I'm trying to start budgeting for it. I can't find the dimensions anywhere for the 6.0 for the life of me. If it was possible I would love to leave my t cases where they are at which would leave the driveshafts the same length. That's why I'm trying to find the dimensions of the 6.0. I know how long the th400 is. Only thing of be worried about is the oil pan at full bump and the upper links depending on the width.

Anybody know the length of a 6.0/th400? And also the width of the 6.0?

 

[Cascadia]

I found this for the height and length but don't know the width to check for clearance in the front tube frame or clearance from the upper links.

http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PDFFILES/ls1vettecamsidemeasurements.pdf

 

[RockChucker]

You'll have to burn that bridge when you get there. The width will partially depend on how low or high you mount the engine on the frame rails. Length is fixed but could "change" based on how far forward or back you mount it. My bet is you'll run into more issues with engine mounts, headers and exhaust in general with link clearances than anything else. You can position the engine a number of ways to make things fit. I wouldn't compromise on drivetrain location over driveshaft mods though. It costs what, $80 to modify the length? Not worth compromising a $5000 project for $80. Just my opinion. Especially if you end up having to totally redo your suspension or have custom headers built to clear things when you could have made it work if you were willing to change your driveshafts.

 

[Cascadia]

I have no problem moving the t case and crossmember and cutting the driveshafts. But I'm just saying that in a perfect world I would be able to leave them where they are and mount the trans and motor in front of it with clearance everywhere I need it. Probably won't happen but that's what I would hope for.

 

[Bart]

Things that make you go hmmmmmmmmm.

 

[corbin.black]

Selling already ?

 

[Cascadia]

Nobody on here was supposed to see that. Just testing the waters and didn't want to do a feeler thread on here. I've only had it out once since I got it. With all the riding and races I am planning on this year I won't have time for it. I am headed to Moab with it Friday though so we'll see if my mind is changed.

 

[corbin.black]

sorry, didn't mean to spill the beans..
just saw it on KSL and was wondering what was up. actually at first i saw your car and them it showed the jeep on your other listings..
makes sense, I would be inclined to list it for sale also if I was in your situation.

 

[STAG]

LOL

 

[Cascadia]

No worries. I've got just about everything listed for sale right now. On top of being too busy we are hoping to start building a house soon. So I've got my STI, YFZ450, Jeep, and I even thought about listing my truck. My house is for sale too.

 

[Cascadia]

What did I break today?! Was attempting potato salad today going up the right side. I slid off the top ledge and I had to reposition because of it. When I was done backing up I was holding the brake and shifting from reverse to 1st gear. It slid back a little and when I let the clutch out I heard a pop. After that I had no clutch. I can shift gears while the jeep is off but if I try shifting while it is on it just grinds. If I push the clutch in the jeep continues to move as if it's under power and gear.

 

[Cascadia]

Hydraulic. Stock ax5.

 

[thenag]

Hydraulic. Stock ax5.

Just throwing ideas out there, clutch fork or clutch fork mount. (I am not sure if the ax5 has a clutch fork or not)

Nathan

 

[cuban b]

we need more info. Does your pedal feel normal, or does it fall to the floor. Crawl under and look at it. I think the slave cylinder on that one is external, but I can't remember for sure. You'll be able to see if things are hanging down or broken. If everything checks out there, it could be the master cylinder or slave cylinder, or a line if there is fluid leaking out.

 

[Cascadia]

My pedal doesn't fall to the floor but it doesn't have the pressure a clutch normally has. I've been under it a few times and can't see anything out of the ordinary or anything hanging down and it isn't leaking anything. Is the clutch fork just inside the trans where the hydraulic line hooks to it? I can shift normally as long as I turn the jeep off to shift. So basically everything is working except for whatever is engaging the clutch, or at least this is what I'm thinking. I can still feel the clutch spinning and feels like all teeth are in tact when I tried shifting into first gear from neutral but I can't get in gear and it just grinds if the jeep is on.

 

[Cascadia]

Any other ideas? I'm leaning towards the clutch fork but don't want to pull my driveshafts, t case, crossmember, shifters, trans, until I have exhausted any other external ideas. If any.

 

[benjy]

I'm pretty sure my clutch pedal felt normal when my master cylinder died.

 

[chans]

It is probably the internal slave cylinder inside the bell housing came off. I f I remember right there are clips or something that holds it to the housing that break or it just died.