Ultra ghetto DIY Limit Strap idea

[Zombie]

This might be completely retarded, but I figured I'd ask. I don't like the idea of spending $40+ on a limiting strap that looks to be about three times more heavy duty than it needs to be. It strikes me that your straps would need co carry the weight of the axle assembly and tires, and no much more.
That said, I have a few damaged 1000lb ratchet straps around that are begging for uses. I was thinking of getting some of those seat belt tensioner things that you often see in the back of baby seats... where you can't loosen any part of the strap without using a screw driver to pry some slack into like three sections of strap where it weaves in and out of the metal... I'd set them up to the correct length using the slip adjustment, tighten, and then for good measure, sew down any excess with some kevlar thread I have laying around.

Is this dumb? are there mechanical forces at work here that I haven't considered? Are there other options?

 

[BroncoMama]

While I don't know all the legal jargon and technical terms, I do know that my significant other took some strap and ghetto rigged some limiting straps once. They didn't work so well. It sounds good in theory, but once you're out there and all flexed crazy like, SNAP, no more limiting straps.

BUT, I'm by no means the authority on this subject, just sharing my experience.

 

[ChestonScout]

There is A LOT more stress on them just just the axle/tire weight

 

[Zombie]

I'm also considering using cables... From some other searching I've done, it seems to work well for ZJs. It also seems a heck of a lot stronger than ghetto straps, and significantly cheaper than retail.

 

[I Lean]

1000 lb straps are pretty thin/weak, they'll certainly break. I've seen seatbelts used as straps, they broke too.

Cables would probably work OK, but you aren't saving that much over buying a couple of actual straps, since they're ~$20 each. They also have just a little bit of "give" in them which is nice, plus the ease of mounting compared to crimping a cable or using clamps or whatever.

Bucking Bronco is using a limiting chain quite effectively, if that's your style of ghetto.

 

[Zombie]

OK.. now that I'm thinking through the physics of an articulating axle, under load in rough terrain, ghetto straps are a bad idea. Thanks for entertaining my thoughts tho...

Carl, would I contact you for that $20 offer? Is that any length, or an assortment of lengths? I poked around on teras page for a while and didn't see any straps.

I'm also considering straps at the corners, and cable or chain in the centers... I figure I can get the cables for about $7 per... and figuring 6 straps, that a savings of $78 ish...

 

[Zombie]

AAAAnnnd... $ 78 is an OEM locker harness. (yeah, I still haven't done that).

 

[Gravy]

limit chain works but is loud.

I use a center strap a la teraflex plus and it works great, climbs a lot better

My friend's dune buggy uses seatbelts on each corner, but that an 1100lb dune buggy. maybe double or triple seat belts would work?

 

[I Lean]

OK.. now that I'm thinking through the physics of an articulating axle, under load in rough terrain, ghetto straps are a bad idea. Thanks for entertaining my thoughts tho...

Carl, would I contact you for that $20 offer? Is that any length, or an assortment of lengths? I poked around on teras page for a while and didn't see any straps.

I'm also considering straps at the corners, and cable or chain in the centers... I figure I can get the cables for about $7 per... and figuring 6 straps, that a savings of $78 ish...

I don't carry limit straps here. Call Ben Hanks Racing, or worst case Poly Performance sells them for $25.

 

[mesha]

I used climbing webbing in the rear of my rig for several years. I tied a smallloop close to the size of my axles and then a length in between. They never broke, but I had to retie them several times to get the length right. For reference that was on 14 bolt and 38 inch tires. If you are good at water knots then it won'tbe a problem. The tubular style webbing is .36 a foot and is stronger than flat style. Your looking at 20-25 Kn dependeing on type. You could get enough for all of them for like 5 bucks total. If you come get it from me then more like 2.50 total.

 

[rockreligious]

there is lot of force there, especially if your running airshox and forget to use your suckdown winch as you touch down hard off a ledge. we have snapped even good limiting straps, Im now doubled up on limitiing straps and a friend last weekend snapped a suck down winch cable maxing out.

If you want to go ghetto and have it work use chain.

 

[JPTHING]

When I lived in Washington, this was the best solution for limiting straps. The great thing is that it is adjustable, and you don't have to do more than push a button. (although I would suggest winch rope, rather than cable)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95912

This is what I am putting on front and back.

 

[I Lean]

I used the cheaper, 2000 lb Harbor Freight winch as a rear suck-down on my last buggy. It worked great for as long as I owned it, and as far as I know continues to work.

The downside is it doesn't give you a 'hard stop' like a strap does. I used a single limit strap in the center to prevent the rear driveshaft from drooping too far and breaking.....can't trust the winch to do that, since it's obviously adjustable.

 

[mrclean]

I made some they work right now but i hate them and sould have just bought some. They took way more time to build then they were worth!

Check this out!



http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?partfamilyid=1609

 

[Corban_White]

When I lived in Washington, this was the best solution for limiting straps. The great thing is that it is adjustable, and you don't have to do more than push a button. (although I would suggest winch rope, rather than cable)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95912

This is what I am putting on front and back.

I have that same winch and it works great but the remote quit after a week or so. No big deal, I just wired a custom (hard wired-non RF) remote and it works great. Oh, and the roller fairlead got removed after the first use because of massive bending.

 

[notajeep]

I use a small 2k winch. Broke the cable pretty quick, and replaced it with horse lead rope. Works great, and when it breaks, I just cut it off, spool out another few feet and I am good to go.

 

[Meat_]

This might be completely retarded, but I figured I'd ask. I don't like the idea of spending $40+ on a limiting strap...

IMHO this is not a place to save money. One "cheap" strap break and you just wasted $40+ in fuel not to mention the $$$$ of what you break after the strap goes.

 

[notajeep]

To clarify, Mine is not a "limit strap" in the normal sense. I don't really need a limit strap, but rather use my rear winch to preload the back end. It is very useful for steep dropoffs.

 

[Bucking Bronco]

I am using a chain on the rear axle and the only problem I have had is, I use one of those links that thread open (I have no idea what there called) and the vibration caused it to come open and bent the link.

for the front axle I am using tailgate cables for an F-350 and they seem to be working well they were $7.00 ea I will let you know when they break and how much damage I sustained being cheap

 

[Meat_]

for the front axle I am using tailgate cables for an F-350 and they seem to be working well they were $7.00 ea I will let you know when they break and how much damage I sustained being cheap

The thing that concerns me with yours is that cable + shock load = bad