Utah BroncoSpeed - FOR SALE (see adverts section in RME4x4)

[denhabr]

Build Thread: Utah BroncoSpeed (Sandy, UT)

"And now for something completely different..."

I've been lurking for awhile, and meeting some very helpful local resources here at RME (e.g., "Revenant" at Summit Machine, et al...) so, I would now like to introduce my Salt Lake City-based BroncoSpeed chase/prerunner project that officially started last week. It is based on my 1996 XL 5.0/E4OD (with 169K miles, but is in pristine shape, purchased from a realtor in Pleasant Grove.) I bought the Bronco last year in October specifically for this project, just after I got back from the 2008 ORE in Pomona.

Some details about the build:


The primary purpose of the truck will be for:

• Daily driver transportation on SLC streets (50%)
• Low speed off-road Utah, Colorado, and Nevada mountain/desert trail exploring (10%)
• High-speed desert trail exploration/pre-running (30%)
• Remaining activities (10%):

• Serving as a race worker for the Rally USA and California Rally Series Pro Rally events held in Southern California, Arizona, Nevada, and Idaho (2-3 events/year)
• Spectating at various BORE, SCORE, VORRA, and other off-road racing events in Utah, Nevada, and California
• Supporting various Ham Radio field day events in Utah and surrounding states

The vehicle will be built to meet these basic requirements:

• Provide high levels of off-road performance without sacrificing street manners
• Be able to withstand and provide comfort on commutes
• Smoothly idle in gear and not overheat in bumper-to-bumper traffic
• Perform well in all types of weather environments (including snow) and handle all types of terrain
• Can be "ridden hard and put away wet"...and do it all over again next weekend
• Will not sacrifice interior comfort features like: A/C, cabin ventilation, radios, sunshades, door cranks, speakers/speaker placement

The Bronco will be built in Phases:

• Phase I: Initial vehicle modifications to achieve a fully turnkey operational vehicle that meets minimum standards summarized below:

• Full safety cage (roll cage)
• Mid-travel (16"-18") suspension work to achieve a mild lift and an increase in suspension travel (using as many off-the-shelf parts from reputable manufacturers as possible to save time and money);
• F&R prerunner style bumpers custom fabricated
• Skid plates in select areas (as recommended by fabricator)
• Off-road lighting
• 4.56 ring & pinions
• Suspension seating for four passengers
• Aftermarket 4-point safety harnesses x 4 seats
• Existing wheels with 35" tires
• Graphics (mild)
• Solid tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor cap, coil, and timing advance)

• Phase I - Optional Components: Additional features that may be added to Phase I if the budget and circumstances permit:

• Fuel cell (DOT/EPA legal)
• Rear disk brakes
• Front disk brake enhancements
• Bassani E.O. headers & Y-pipe/catalytic converter system
• Cyclonic air filter
• Dual batteries
• F&R fiberglass fenders
• Additional engine/transmission cooling
• Custom center console
• Detroit (Eaton) True-Trac (rear first, then front)

• Phase II: Additional (read: $$$) advanced functionality and features that add further capabilities to the Bronco - TBD

This will be an Autofab Bronco. I have heard enough good things about John Ehmke's suspension systems that there is no other real choice for my budget. My various conversations and e-mails with John have solidified my decision. In fact, I have the dual 2.5" res. shock 16" travel TTB system is on order as of two weeks ago.

Here is a quick list of initial parts:

• Full cabin safety cage (DOM tubing, MIG welded)
• Autofab's 16¨ travel dual 2.5¡¨ shock TTB system
• Autofab's 18¨ travel 2-link leaf spring system
• Sway-A-Way RaceRunner 2.5¨ remote reservoir shocks
• 35x12.50-15 tires (probably Goodyear Silent Armors, but that may change)
• American Racing Outlaw II 15x8 wheels (already on the Bronco)
• 4.56:1 ring & pinions
• F&R prerunner bumpers (DOM, MIG)
• Hella 4000 lights (2 ea Euro Beam, 1 ea pencil beam)
• Mastercraft or Beard suspension seats, 4 ea (Mastercraft "originals", or Beard "Super Seats") w/ sliders
• Mastercraft (or possibly a DOT-legal set) 2" 4-point restraints on all four seats

Fabricators:

The fabricators that I have chosen are two local Wasatch front professionals that specialize in both off-road long travel pre-runners and high performance racing vehicle fabrication. The lead fabricator is Josh Smario of Ojive Industries (formerly HoleShot Off Road, of Murray, UT) who built a nice '96 2WD Ranger that appeared in ORM in 2004 (http://www.off-roadweb.com/features/0409or_1996_ford_ranger_supercab/index.html). The vehicle will be co-built by Dustin Francis at his dp custom fab (www.dpcustomfab.com) shop in Centerville, UT. Special advanced thanks to "Revenant" down in American Fork for his suggestions, contacts, and his F-150 build (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114672)


Current modifications (installed by previous owner) on truck that will be retained (at least for now...)

• Magnaflow 3¨ cat-back exhaust
• K&N panel filter (in stock air-box)
• American Racing Outlaw II wheels (15x8)

I have a complete detailed project plan and parts/labor pricing matrix (.pdf's) that I am willing to share. Just PM me.

I also look forward to documenting (narratives, pics) the entire build here and at Broncospeed.com (www.fullsizebronco.com) here: (http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146007) and I invite feedback from all. Thanks!

Some "before" photos...

 

[I Lean]

Sounds really fun, I'll be watching.

 

[Herzog]

Sounds really fun, I'll be watching.

same here! Sounds like a well planned project.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

 

[notajeep]

I like the idea of a full size pre runner style rig,

 

[jsudar]

I really like the sound of this project. Keep the updates coming as you get stuff done. I have a full size Blazer with similar design criteria, just with a Dana 60 instead of TTB. It has to be street legal, race around in the desert and go rock crawling too.

Couple suggestions:

Do the cooling system upgrades sooner rather than later. Get a big old tranny cooler and plumb it in the system behind the trans cooler in the radiator (so you use both coolers.) The E4OD is a good tranny (I have on in my other truck,) but you can never cool an automatic too much.

You may want to look into getting radiator from a bronco with the 5.8l and tow package. I think they were a bigger radiator, but I can't remember for sure.

If you do put a fuel cell in, make sure you transfer all the vents and sensors from the old tank. Since it's a 96, it's OBDII compliant which means the PCM will be monitoring evaporative emissions. If you don't get all the sensors and junk plumbed in right, you will have check engine light problems forever--in Utah county that means you don't pass the emissions test which means you don't drive it on the street.

You will also have to make sure that your fuel cell is completely sealed along with any of the lines that are plumbed to it. The evaporative emissions control system can sense a leak anywhere in the system as small as .040".

If it were me, I would stick with a factory fuel tank and skid plate it.

If you have the electronic shift transfer case, exercise the shift motor at least once a month by running the T-case through all it's gears. They usually quit because the contacts that tell the computer what gear the case is in get all corroded from not being used.

 

[jeepspeedtj]

Great Build! John is great to work with! You have thought out this build very well. (I think that the daydreaming is almost as fun as the build itself!)

I don't know crap about full size fords but if their frames are anything like a Rangers don't wait tell later box the frame now!

I built a "Wanna be runner" that i thought could handle a little prerunning. But it couldn't and i bent the frame. I spent half a day trying to figure out how to bend it back and finally got it but it took more time on a frame rack down here at the local tech school. Then it would have ever taken to box the frame.

 

[denhabr]

Engine Cooling, Fuel cell, and Frames...

I really like the sound of this project. Keep the updates coming as you get stuff done. I have a full size Blazer with similar design criteria, just with a Dana 60 instead of TTB. It has to be street legal, race around in the desert and go rock crawling too.

Couple suggestions:

Do the cooling system upgrades sooner rather than later. Get a big old tranny cooler and plumb it in the system behind the trans cooler in the radiator (so you use both coolers.) The E4OD is a good tranny (I have on in my other truck,) but you can never cool an automatic too much.

You may want to look into getting radiator from a bronco with the 5.8l and tow package. I think they were a bigger radiator, but I can't remember for sure.

If you do put a fuel cell in, make sure you transfer all the vents and sensors from the old tank. Since it's a 96, it's OBDII compliant which means the PCM will be monitoring evaporative emissions. If you don't get all the sensors and junk plumbed in right, you will have check engine light problems forever--in Utah county that means you don't pass the emissions test which means you don't drive it on the street.

You will also have to make sure that your fuel cell is completely sealed along with any of the lines that are plumbed to it. The evaporative emissions control system can sense a leak anywhere in the system as small as .040".

If it were me, I would stick with a factory fuel tank and skid plate it.

If you have the electronic shift transfer case, exercise the shift motor at least once a month by running the T-case through all it's gears. They usually quit because the contacts that tell the computer what gear the case is in get all corroded from not being used.

I love Blazers...in fact, before the Bronco, I was verrrrry close to purchasing an M-1009 CUCV ex-military diesel Blazer. Saw a lot of them when I was back in the Army, mid-80's. Stout trucks.

Regarding cooling, I plan a thorough overhaul of the existing cooling system (new coolant, HD hoses/clamps, cleaned radiator, 180 degree thermostat, etc.) The idea of using a 351w radiator (from a Bronco with a trailering package) is a good one. I will have to do a lookup on the radiator size as you suggest. Same with the tranny coolers. Already have that planned, including a deep pan and an auxiliary forced air remote tranny cooler...mounted somewhere. Was thinking about a remote ATF filter as well. A little extra fluid capacity and additional filtration/cooling can't hurt. Glad I have the 'latest' E4OD tranny as well, with the upgrades that came about in '95 (or thereabouts.)

And the fuel cell...yeah, can't agree more. I guess the cells were really meant to be on race vehicles, or pre-emissions vehicles. What you described seems like a nightmare. Got you loud and clean: skid-plate the stock tank!

Great Build! John is great to work with! You have thought out this build very well. (I think that the daydreaming is almost as fun as the build itself!)

I don't know crap about full size fords but if their frames are anything like a Rangers don't wait tell later box the frame now!

I built a "Wanna be runner" that i thought could handle a little prerunning. But it couldn't and i bent the frame. I spent half a day trying to figure out how to bend it back and finally got it but it took more time on a frame rack down here at the local tech school. Then it would have ever taken to box the frame.

You are right. I've actually been really enjoying the planning...all 10+ years of it! No substitute for visiting as many fab shops as you can (10 or more at last count...), and asking many questions. I know my fabricators were pleased to see an actual build plan in front of them when we initially discussed this. Helps in getting a more accurate cost estimate too.

Understand about the frame...will ask others back on the BroncoSpeed.com site about their experiences with long-travel TTB Broncos. So far, some of the more active threads have not indicated frame issues...maybe because the Bronco is such a short wheelbase? My fabricators have standing orders to strengthen and gusset anywhere they see issues...especially since this '96 had the rippled frame rails (impact crumple zones?)

Thanks!

 

[denhabr]

Tear Down...

It's in the shop, and the tear down has begun...

First task involved taking out are the front beams (gotta' get them back to Autofab to avoid the core charge ,) radius arms, axles, third member, etc.

Right front hub had water/rust in it...bad inner seal according to my fabricators. Leaning towards installing the F&R TrueTracs along with the 4.56:1 ring & pinions while everything is out. Just makes sense rather than paying twice to have it all torn out again and replaced.

Any suggestions on how to finish the beams, radius arms, shock tower, etc? Powder coating? Paint? Line-X? Other?

Got one of the original wheels/tires home for further inspection...only to find out that the wheels are Ford products! They have the Ford oval logo and "15x7.5 J DOT" stamped inside the back of the rim. I've never seen these on a Bronco or F-150 before.

I HAVE seen the smooth and polished "Alcoa looking" 10-hole wheels w/o the rivets, but my wheels are the 10-hole models WITH rivets (a la American Racing Outlaw II's, which is what I thought they were.) I guess I should have noticed the three small mounting holes that are located around the center hole (mounts the center cap via three stainless screws.) I think these wheels are keepers. Off to the polishing shop here in nearby Murray, UT for an estimate tomorrow.

The DOM tubing has been ordered for the cage and F&R bumpers. On Monday, I'll get the shocks and seats ordered, and the follow-up order with John at Autofab for the rear 18" suspension system.

Anyone know of any good sources for Mastercraft "originals" or Beard "Superseats?"


The pictures:

1. The Bronco in the shop
2. Pile O'Stuff
3. The old front beams...off to Autofab for some other lucky customer!
4. Front spindles...will have to find that bad seal and get it replaced...in fact, I may just replaced all of the seals...
5. Driver's side
6. Passenger's side
7. The "Alcoa-look" Ford wheels
8. The 15x7.5's I have

More later this week...

 

[Chevycrew]

pics dont work...

 

[denhabr]

pics dont work...

Fixed! Sorry 'bout that...

 

[phatfoto]

Nice project!

 

[neagtea]

Dustin does good work,
Do coilovers now you will thank me later, Lose the bushings and do heims and uniballs.
You should talk to dustin about coming down to Riot racing before we move to L.V.
You could get some ideas off of our blazer prerunner that has I beams and three link rear.

 

[denhabr]

Coilovers, bushings, and heims, oh my!

Dustin does good work,
Do coilovers now you will thank me later, Lose the bushings and do heims and uniballs.
You should talk to dustin about coming down to Riot racing before we move to L.V.
You could get some ideas off of our blazer prerunner that has I beams and three link rear.

neagtea,

Hi. Appreciate the comments. Thanks.

I looked at coilovers (really hard...) but a.) they weren't in the budget for Phase I, and b.) I decided to go old school (read: a Dave Ashley Bronco look-alike…BFG "Team Rough Riders") with coil buckets, dual 2.5's, and cut-n-turned beams from Autofab...an approach that a number of users on BroncoSpeed.com are using and speak highly of.

I can still get 16" of TTB beam travel out of that set-up (and 18" out of Autofab's single link leaf spring 2.5" reservoir rear suspension setup,) so that suits me fine...for now. Especially considering my use of the vehicle (UT trail running, pro-rally event support as a stage captain, and the infrequent blast across the western Utah desert!)

I thought about the Uniballs and heims when I ordered the kit from John at Autofab. Considering the nasty Utah winters (moisture, salt, sand...), John and I agreed that urethane bushings are the way to go. I can always get them replaced later, I guess.

Dustin does do excellent work! Just notice the pics of the Bronco in his shop with the beams removed...the is floor spotless, and all the gear (calipers, driveshaft, etc.) is all nicely tied up and away . That is attention to detail!

And yes, Dustin gave me one of your Riot Racing posters, and mentioned that your shop is here in SLC too. He suggested we go there and see your TT. I would love to see your beamed Blazer (and maybe meet Mark E? As an IBMer, I am familiar with his Red Hat Linux systems...)

If I get my Bronco finished in time, maybe I could chase/support RR for the Vegas to Reno...? I’ve crewed twice for a Class 8 truck (Doug Seymour's Reno, NV-based 'Battle Born Racing' 2WD F-150) for some VORRA events, so if you need some help... :-\

Speaking of your Blazer, I also thought about yanking out my TTB's and transfer case, and go 2WD with some TIB's from an F-150 or McNeil. My primary fabricator, Josh Smario (Ojive Industries, formerly HoleShotOffroad.com) talked me into keeping the TTB, and I am glad I did (read: $$$) From there, I decided to go the old school (mid-90's?) route and call it a day!

Looking forward to meeting you at the shop. And why relocate RR to Vegas?

 

[neagtea]

I have known John at autofab for years his stuff works well. I dig off road preped fords and wish I wouldn't have sold mine. As I remember when we raced against Dave Ashley and Dan Smith they ran coilovers and 1/4 eliptic rear, the coil front must have been when it first hit the track.
As far as the move it is Marc's call, Closer to the acton and testing can be done anytime no snow to worry about.

TT#68 will be at the BORE race this weekend for some driver seat time, I hear the horsleys (Iron horse racing) are hauling the protruck out as well.
www.riotracing.com

 

[denhabr]

Project Update & OEM Ford 15" 10-Hole w/ Rivets

• Autofab has completed the build-up of the beams, the front 16" travel TTB suspension system, and the rear 18" travel leaf system. They are on a truck to the dp custom fab shop in Centerville for installation. Autofab received my cores last Wednesday.
• The DOM tubing for the safety cage and F&R bumpers has been ordered by my fabricator and is on the way.
• I ordered six S-A-W 2.5" reservoir shocks, 2x16" of travel (56000-116), 2x10" of travel (56000-110), and 2x12" of travel (56000-112), all at $349 ea, with free shipping.
• Monday I order the seats...
• Wheels:

Here is a picture of the one wheel I have home from the shop. They map to Hollander #1701, are 15x7.5", and have 4" backspacing. It has 3 holes in the center hub to mount the chrome Ford center caps, and has small plastic core inserts (where the 3 mounting bolts go,) which can be removed from the backside during polishing/cleaning. The same wheels (fully polished) off the internet go for $195 ea, so I'll put some extra effort into getting these cleaned up.

The 20 "rivets" are simply cosmetic and can be removed by punching them out from the backside for cleaning/polishing.

Since a local polishing shop wanted $75.00/wheel, I'm going to give it some TLC, a lot of elbow grease, and try to clean the wheels up myself. I will start with the removal of the 20 rivets (and the three plastic mounting sleeves for the center cap,) followed by removal of the clear coat (aircraft stripper), and then some hand polishing with steel wool and Brasso. Then I'll try a power ball, and some good aluminum polish and go to town. I'll finish the backside off with some scrubbing and maybe a light coat of light grey spray paint (so I never have to deal with the backside again...) :-\

If the resulting finished product is not up to my standards...I'll just get them powder coated a nice high-gloss silver (or as close to the polished aluminum look as possible) and call it a day (read: no more polishing!) I recently had my Mazdaspeed 6's 18x7 factory wheels powder coated at AAA Metals Finishing here in SLC, and they turned out great...@ $34/wheel! I may be going back there!
​

Pic 1: The complete wheel assembly (with old Michelin LTX 235/75R-15 tire)
Pic 2: Hub close-up
Pic 3: Backside (complete with small spider nest)
Pic 4: Ford size stamping on backside

 

[Pauly]

Your making me drool

 

[denhabr]

Autofab Suspension & S-A-W Shocks are in!

• The Autofab front & rear suspension systems arrived at the shop by truck freight on Tuesday. Freight from Santee to Centerville, UT was ~ $405.00 for about 400 lbs. of steel.
  
• The six Sway-A-Way's arrived in from Kustom 1 Warehouse also on Tuesday, pictures are below...nicely laid out on the front driveway.
• Today, I ordered the 4.56 r&p's (Yukon), master installation kits (Yukon), new high pinion Dana 44 (reverse) r&p carrier for the front TTB, and a TrueTrac for the Ford 8.8.
• The four Mastercraft "Original" seats in grey cloth/grey vinyl, with blue cloth center seating surfaces (and black piping) are also on order.
• The fabricators tear into the dash for the forward roll cage section on Saturday. May try and get up to the shop for some more pics...
• Any suggestions for some heavy duty lug nuts? 1/2" cone style? Open end? Will be staying with 1/2" studs for now...maybe 9/16th's later on down the road when I get my disk brakes installed on the 8.8 rear.

Pics...

1. Autofab Suspension Pallet 1
2. Autofab Suspension Pallet 2
3. Autofab Suspension Pallet 3
4. Coil-Spring Buckets and Shock Towers
5. Driver-side Spring Bucket/Shock Tower
6. Sway-A-Way Shocks

 

[denhabr]

June Update...

Apologize for the break in action.

I've been away for work, like really away. In fact, I arrived back home last week from Warsaw, Poland (been there for 10 days for meetings...) So I have an excuse!

Oh, that plus the home PC $hit the bed the exact morning of my departure overseas (May 23.) I almost lost ALL of my Bronco build pics (not to mention the really REALLY important personal files, etc.) It was a bad hard drive that was followed by a corrupt Vista Registry. And I'm a computer consultant. Jeeesh.

Well, to help cheer me up, Dustin (dp custom fab) and Josh (Ojive Industries) sent me some photos of their progress while I was overseas. They are coming along nicely with the front suspension. See below...

I also made a command decision with the wheels. I decided to keep the OEM Ford 10-hole 'riveted' 15x7.5 wheels, and got them polished. I went back to the place that did my engine/chassis steam cleaning last November (Air Vision, 5302 W 2400 S, see Travis), and since their specialty is semi-truck detailing (they routinely polish those large 22.5" over-the-road Alcoa wheels on a daily basis,) they did all four of my wheels for ~ $103.00! They turned out pretty nice...not show quality, but this is a off-road Bronco!

I then got them over to the Goodyear shop and had them mount and balance my four new Goodyear Silent Armor 35x12.5-15's. They look sharp!!! Nice A/T tread with broad and square-shouldered carcass. Of course, I had some nice photos of the mounted tires/wheels on the front lawn...and they'll be in a follow-on posting here shortly.

Haven't heard from Autofab about where my Mastercraft seats are... I'll have to drop John a call tomorrow.

Anyway, here are the pictures:

1. Comparison of stock shock tower to the Autofab tower
2. TTB Dana 44 housing with new 4.56:1 gears
3. Driver's side spring bucket and shock hoop positioned on the frame
4. Engine bay cross bar positioned for fit
5. Driver's side spring bucket/hoop looking down from above
6. Driver's side radius arm
​

Still have to order the Hella 4000's. Anyone have a source?

(More here in the next posting with pictures of the tires and wheels I was able to recoved from the damaged hard drive...)

 

[denhabr]

June Update...Part II

$321.00 later and I got the home PC fixed. The techs at Software & More there in Murray were able to salvage ALL the files on the original C:\ drive (thank God!), and I found my tire and wheel pictures I took back on May 22nd! Woo-hoo.

Here they are: Goodyear Silent Armors in 35x12.50-15 sizing mounted on Ford OEM 10-hole 15x7.5 wheels...

Question: Should I mount the wheels with the center caps, or leave them off for the full "race-look?" I'll respond to everyone's comments/remarks later today. Appreciate the questions, suggestions, and feedback...

Pics:

1. 3/4 View w/o Bronco Center Cap
2. Tread
3. With Bronco Center Cap attached (like or no like?)
4. Wheel with Center Cap close-up (I sanded and painted the OEM center medallions black...)
5. Proud owner and 2 tires (one on the grass, and the other around the waist)