Welder question............flux core with gas?

[mbryson]

OK..........so I've just run out of 'non-flux' wire and just went to the local hardware store to get a small spool................arggghhhh......flux only unless I want a 20# spool for $95.....yeah right. So I bought a 2 lb spool of flux, changed the polarity of the welder and finished my little welder cart I was working on. OK, project over.

Now I get to thinking I'd read something from those 'cool dudes' on PirateBB about running flux core with gas shielding?............anyone tried that? I've got the CO2/argon mix. Bad combination?

 

[Herzog]

My friend welds for a living and swears by the flux-core & gas combo. Supposably it's a different type of flux-core wire though. Not sure.

 

[Caleb]

My friend welds for a living and swears by the flux-core & gas combo. Supposably it's a different type of flux-core wire though. Not sure.

I think what he is refering to is like flux core, but when you use it it has a nice layer of slag...its like welding with arc but from a mig...most guys that mig thick material use it cause they get awesome penetration with it...I cant remember the exact name right now, its cool stuff but its pricey.

I honestly have never tried (or even thought about trying) regular flux with gas. Let us know how it works, my first impression is its a waste of gas because of the nature of flux (its already shielded). Flux always produces uglier welds than solid wire if cosmetics are a concern

 

[RWH]

It's Just called dual sheild, It's what i did the Cert with 3Gvee multi pass. it'll work fine

 

[bobdog]

I've done a little Duel sheild. It was different wire. The process is pretty cool. The layer of flux is very thin and if you do it right it will peel it self off in one piece as the weld cools. The puddle goes down wide and very smooth.

You could try using regular flux core with gas but I doubt it would be any better than just using flux core. Put the wire in storage untill you need to weld in a stong wind and use solid with the gas.

 

[bobdog]

Running Flux Core with wire seems to add up in the pocket book as well as requires alot of clean up even if it is welded right, Lots of spatter, etc.. Although Regular flux core has the same problem but not to the extent of Duel shield with Gas. I have welded a bunch with straight flux core and have had very good luck, with a little practice you can compare it side by side after being hit with a wire brush up to solid wire with gas and cannot tell the difference. Although Solid wire on exhaust and thinner metals works best. Depends on what you are welding etcc..thickness. When in doubt get the BUZZ Box out. But in General a good slow arc and high heat on Most 110 volt welders will weld up to 3/8 inch thick material without a problem. ANYWHO that is the OPINION OF ONE MAN my favorite is solid with gas or Flux core when I am out of Gas LOL Have fun

Like I said I have welded Duel sheild using the corect wire and gas for the proccess. There was no splater and the flux peels right off. No need for brush or chipping hammer unless you have trapped some by backing up or other mistake. I am sure that what you are talking about would cause splatter and a ugly looking bead but what I am talking about is completely different.

Also the arc is very bright the propper shade is important.

 

[Caleb]

But in General a good slow arc and high heat on Most 110 volt welders will weld up to 3/8 inch thick material without a problem.

put the crack pipe down and step away, and no one will get hurt...there is not a 110V welder on the market that can properly weld 3/8" material without MAJOR prep work and multiple passes. Even then I would not want to claim anything that was done with a 110V welder on 3/8 material. 1/4 is pushing the ability of 110V welders, most the time its best to stay below 1/4"...

 

[grinch]

put the crack pipe down and step away, and no one will get hurt...there is not a 110V welder on the market that can properly weld 3/8" material without MAJOR prep work and multiple passes. Even then I would not want to claim anything that was done with a 110V welder on 3/8 material. 1/4 is pushing the ability of 110V welders, most the time its best to stay below 1/4"...

I will push it even further and say that only 1/4" if you preheat, small gap and bevel your mettle, grind your core pass and then put a cap pass on.....
It is possible to build stuff that holds with the 110 welder.... I unfortunantly have one and have learnd alot of tricks to get it to work but im in the prosess of saving up for a 220 because its a far better application for what we do...

 

[Caleb]

I will push it even further and say that only 1/4" if you preheat, small gap and bevel your mettle, grind your core pass and then put a cap pass on.....
It is possible to build stuff that holds with the 110 welder.... I unfortunantly have one and have learnd alot of tricks to get it to work but im in the prosess of saving up for a 220 because its a far better application for what we do...

absolutely on all of those...and those are the same steps that need to be taken to even touch 3/8"...honestly I can;t even imagine touching 3/8" with a 110

 

[Caleb]

[there is not a 110V welder on the market that can properly weld 3/8" material without MAJOR prep work and multiple passes.



I will push it even further and say that only 1/4" if you preheat, small gap and bevel your mettle, grind your core pass and then put a cap pass on.....
It is possible to build stuff that holds with the 110 welder.... I unfortunantly have one and have learnd alot of tricks to get it to work but im in the prosess of saving up for a 220 because its a far better application for what we do...

__________________
As the above states there are ways to make a 110 welder hold I.E. Use your ingenuity to get by on your budget. Take pride in your work and spend time making it work for you.



So sounds like for the most parts your lazy. Is there a problem with preheating a piece of metal and doing mutiple passes to succeed in welding up to 3/8 inch thick metal. Or do you simply go buy a 2000 dollar welder to occasionally weld your 3/8 thick material. According to most manufactures many 220 volt welders will weld 1/2 3/8 material but they do suggest making mutiple passes. So whats the difference with turning down your wire speed and doing it with a 110 volt welder.

As for you that have superior welding ability and no matter what, you have no clean up or spatter. With ready to paint quality running dual shield or flux core wire. Bless your souls and by god you should build Hot Rod Frames with Bob Coddington. How many of you have welded something and have had it be clean enough (especially on a bumper or a roll bar) to immediately paint it with absolutely no clean up with even a wire brush. Like I said that is just the opinion of one man So don't get your super women undies in a bunch

I take back what I said earlier...even with MAJOR prep there is no way to properly weld 3/8" with a 110V welder...by stating you need to spend $2k to get a welder that can do it is really showing your lack of knowledge. $600 for a 175, $1100 for a 210 and $1600 for a 251...all of them can do it without much fuss at all. Laziness isn;t a factor when it comes to safety...go talk to just about any welding shop and tell them you plan to weld 3/8 (even if its just once in a blue moon) and they will laugh you out of their shop if you tell them you pan to do it with a 110V machine. Go look on the specs on your machine and tell me what it says the settings are for 3/8"...oh wait, thats right they aren;t listed because its not up to the task...being able to weld and have it ready for paint is not hard if you aren;t using flux core...I can tell you are new to welding and have a TON to learn...study a little more before you go spouting off about something you have no clue.

some people's kids...its Boyd not Bob

 

[Caleb]

BTW, WTH are you welding thats 3/8" thick anyways?

 

[grinch]

I take back what I said earlier...even with MAJOR prep there is no way to properly weld 3/8" with a 110V welder...by stating you need to spend $2k to get a welder that can do it is really showing your lack of knowledge. $600 for a 175, $1100 for a 210 and $1600 for a 251...all of them can do it without much fuss at all. Laziness isn;t a factor when it comes to safety...go talk to just about any welding shop and tell them you plan to weld 3/8 (even if its just once in a blue moon) and they will laugh you out of their shop if you tell them you pan to do it with a 110V machine. Go look on the specs on your machine and tell me what it says the settings are for 3/8"...oh wait, thats right they aren;t listed because its not up to the task...being able to weld and have it ready for paint is not hard if you aren;t using flux core...I can tell you are new to welding and have a TON to learn...study a little more before you go spouting off about something you have no clue.

some people's kids...its Boyd not Bob

AWWWW what do you know????? You never build anything do you????
Like I said earlier you can make a 110 work on 1/4 inch with alot of prep work... I sure wouldnt use it on anything thicker than than 1/4 inch and yes I run flux core it may take a little cleaning up but with my welding style it sure penatraits better. I would rather have safe strong parts rather than weaker good looking parts. Better yet I would rather have a 220 machine where I can use gas and get good penatration and good looking welds. YES IM LAZY. I dont want to spend so much time in prep work I would rather spend it on design or out wheeling...

 

[bobdog]

stating you need to spend $2k to get a welder that can do it is really showing your lack of knowledge. $600 for a 175, $1100 for a 210 and $1600 for a 251...all of them can do it without much fuss at all.
:

You have forgotten simple 220 DC stick machine. Cheaper and can stick metal together real good. Have not priced one lately but cheeper than $600 by quite a bit. It is what I really beleive everyone should start with anyway. Someone that learns stick can pickup MIG in seconds but watch someone who learns MIG first try stick and it is like learning from scratch.

 

[Caleb]

You have forgotten simple 220 DC stick machine. Cheaper and can stick metal together real good. Have not priced one lately but cheeper than $600 by quite a bit. It is what I really beleive everyone should start with anyway. Someone that learns stick can pickup MIG in seconds but watch someone who learns MIG first try stick and it is like learning from scratch.

absolutely...in fact I am a very strong believer in learning oxy/acet welding and arc first...then you get the luxury of stepping up to a mig...if you learn those tow first the rest come pretty easily like you mentioned...including Tig which is very similar to oxy/acet but with more control...

and thats a good point about the arc machine...you could prolly buy one of the nicest arc machines around (dont know what that is) for around $600...you can get a very nice machine for $300-$500 and as you stated be able to stick some thick material together...infact the cheaper 220V arc machines will do thicker material than most nice mig machines... good points

 

[SnwMnkys]

Which would you rather use for Suspension work? Id like to do my Shackle inversion but all i have access to is a 110v 135 Century Mig welder and a big Miller Generator/Arc welder.

 

[grinch]

Which would you rather use for Suspension work? Id like to do my Shackle inversion but all i have access to is a 110v 135 Century Mig welder and a big Miller Generator/Arc welder.

Use the Arc for any suspenton stuff.... My suspeniton stuff I did with the 110 broke... And yes is was with all the proper prep work... I.E. small gap, bevel edges, pre heat with a torch, grind root pass, put on cap pass....
Its just really hard to get full penatration with a 110 mig.... I went back over mine with a stick welder from work and have had no problems since then.

 

[mbryson]

Which would you rather use for Suspension work? Id like to do my Shackle inversion but all i have access to is a 110v 135 Century Mig welder and a big Miller Generator/Arc welder.

I'd use the ARC.