Welding 14 bolt axles tubes to center section

[jsudar]

I need to weld my 14B FF axle tubes to the center section before they spin, but I'm not sure what welding process to use. I read a thread on here that said to use Econocast 99 or 55 stick to weld to a dana center section, but dana center sections are nodular iron, while 14B centers are either ductile or gray.

My 14B is the older model, which should be ductile iron. I think the 85? and later are just gray cast iron.

I have an arc welder, two migs and a tig. I can run then all up to at least 250 amps. I suck at stick welding cause I never do it, I'm ok with the Tig and do pretty well with the Mig.

Is one welding process better than the other for this application?

So far, I have heard I should use 7018 or the econocast rods with the arc.
Someone else said to use 308 stainless rod with the TIG or just high nickel wire with the MIG.

I am planning on a 250* preheat and a post heat with some blankets to slow the cooling.

What say you welders out there?

 

[lewis]

Let me know when you figure it out so you can do mine too!
I remember seeing this guy do it. Not sure if it says what rod he used, too tired to look after finding it.
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=44568

 

[notajeep]

I worried about this for a while to on my 14b. But rather than weld the tubes, I welded the truss to the pinion guard\skid thing. I think that this should be enough to hole everything together.

 

[jsudar]

Eventually, I would like to truss the axle, but I need it rolling really soon because I have to do a ton of other stuff to finish before EJS. I don't have time to do the truss right now, but I plan on beating it thoroughly in Moab and once the tubes spin, the housing is pretty much worthless. Not that it's hard to find another, I would rather spare myself the effort.


Lewis--

He doesn't say what rod he used in that link. I asked tc meiser what rod he used when he welded up his center sections in the BAMF build up, but he never got back to me. I guess one of my concerns is whether or not the same rod will work on a Dana and a 14B, since Dana's are nodular (so I'm told) and 14B's are ductile or gray, depending on the year.

 

[notajeep]

Here is a pic of my set up.

 

[420willys]

thats my axle in the other thread and all i used was was my MM250 MIG. i set the machine at 19.5 volts and around 185 IPM's. i heated it up enough to drive out the moisture and welded them vertical up.

is it the right way no but its better than nothing and after driving off the trail ( well limping more like it ) after spining one tube i figure MIG is better than nothing. alot of peaple over on pirate said they did the same way and have no problems eather.

this was the same tube the antiwrap bar was on, now im 4-linked and the new axle is the one in the other thread. so the only thing i want to break now is shafts

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/420willys/?action=view&current=Image015-1.jpg

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/420willys/?action=view&current=Image014-1.jpg

jason.

 

[jsudar]

Spent while at the welding shop asking questions and this is what I came home with:

Nickel 55 Rod
Pinnacle Alloys
Part # PP1125NI55E
ENiFe-CI (55) 1/8" rod
cost around $20/lb

They said my best bet would be to stick weld it with this rod. Clean it with degreaser and then wire brush it till it shines. They said to give it a good preheat, not only to heat it for the welding, but to burn out any impurities/grease/oil near the surface. Weld it up, peen the snot out of it to limit stress cracking and let it cool slowly.

They also said I could run the welder a little bit cooler with nickel rod since it melts really easily.

They said I could also use Nickel 99 rod, but the tensile strength is lower. BTW, Econocast is just a brand name for nickel rod. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[jsudar]

Okay, my 14B is all welded up. I cleaned it really well, preheated it to ~250* (infrared temp gun), welded it up in 2" sections on opposing sides of the tube, peened the welds and did a mild post heat. I haven't seen any visible cracking anywhere.
I welded it at about 115 amps DC- electrode. Nickel rod flows pretty well.

***Warning***
Do not weld with this rod if you don't have good ventilation. I would suggest a small fan to blow the smoke sway from you. I got a good whiff of the smoke and I thought I was going to die. I was coughing harder than I have ever coughed before. I wore a dust mask (couldn't get the respirator to fit under the welding hood) and turned on all the vent fans in the shop and opened the doors and I was still coughing. My welds look like crap because I was coughing so hard. I will still post some pics when I get a chance, even though my welds are embarrassing. That rod is nasty stuff.

 

[lewis]

DId you weld them with the housing empty or were you able to do it all put together. I am looking forward to the pics.

 

[jsudar]

The housing was empty when I welded it, but I imagine you could do it with everything in there. I put the housing on some short jack stands on the welding table so I could rotate it around as I welded. If you do weld it while it's under your truck, make sure the weight of the truck is not on the axle. Support it by the bumper or frame.

I probably would have welded it with the gears in there, but I already had it stripped down for a shave, discs, home built cover, re-gearing and paint.