What did you work on Today; Home Edition


Well-Known Member
Twin Falls, ID
Got most of the tile ripped out yesterday, and rented a dump trailer to put all the tile and cement. I still need to do it under the fridge, stove, and dishwasher, but pretty much everything else is done. All the dust has subsided in all the spots in the house, so that will be fun to clean.

This thing saved my bacon and I was able to get a lot more done than I would have with the wimpy handheld demo hammer. I will use the handheld version for the three remaining areas.

View attachment 148102

I used the big version all day with no issues, then I did the kitchen last and had two areas where it got into and partially under the subfloor 😠. Any good options for patching them before I cut them out for wood? It didn't go all the way through, but did pull up a couple layers on the plywood.

View attachment 148104

I then found a small section by the backdoor that is rotted from many years of water damage I am sure. found it under all the concrete backer, so either it rotted under that, or someone just bubble gummed it while they were doing the tile. I am guessing the latter as there was a plastic sheet in that section where the rest of the job had nothing. I need to reseal/fix the door and the subfloor section in that area.
I went into my kitchen remodel knowing it needed new subfloor and hated it anyway. I ripped out that wonderful late 70s/early 80s particle board crap and replaced with 7/8" OSB. Huge improvement.


But stuck more often.
Today’s progress. It’s slow work and it’s getting hot here. That makes for even slower work. The purlins are 22’ long and the overall width is 40’. So I put one purlin in place on one side then set the other one. Once the hangover and overlap is right I connect the two purlins together. Then I go back to the ends and attach them. Yeah, I move the ladder ALOT.
I’ve never done this before so kind of guessing as I go.


But stuck more often.
Great question, and I'm not sure if I have a good answer or not. When researching purlins I saw most of the time they were mounted with a bracket similar to what you used. Either welded or bolted to the beam, and then the purlin was bolt to it. When I placed my order for the purlins I asked about those brackets and was told they don't sell any because everyone attached them directly to the beam with self tappers. That seamed odd to me, but they are in the business and I'm not....
So I am only screwing them directly to the beams. Should I change this?


Tin Foil Hat Equipped
When I built mine I had all the horizontal pieces laid out and just welded all the vertical steel that the purlins attach to while they were on the ground. My vertical pieces are just 4" wide bar steel and a few pieces of chanel iron. Where you are already up in the air I think you're past the point of doing what I did. Doing it on the ground allowed me to just set them all in place and then clamp and drill holes for assembly once everything was in the air. Mine isn't as big at 30' wide I just used a full width purlin instead of having to join them. I'm not sure what size screws you are using would be my main concern, the bolts I used were 1/2" bolts with a 3/4" head.


Davis County
Last year the wood railing was in pretty poor condition so we replaced it with steel. What is the front fascia board or skirting called?
Lumber yards call it different things but I think I'm dealing with Douglas Fir live edge/unfinished edge wood. Does that sound correct?

Original railing:

New metal railing that has cut outs missing from the wood posts:


I'm not very knowledgeable with construction or wood terms so I'd like to know what I'm asking for so I don't sound like such a noob.


Premium Member
Supporting Member
Could you make a cool decorative steel cap to match the railing? Might visually look more appealing than the smaller random pieces added in, that or some kind of decorative accent piece?


Well-Known Member
If I was looking to replace those skirt boards I'd ask for live edge Doug fir or whatever you think the species is. What you would buy will be love edge on both sides then you would straight line rip the "top" to line up nice to your deck.

You aren't going to be able to get that from a traditional lumber yard though. You need to find a saw mill that dimensions lumber from the tree. I don't know of any in particular but haven't ever looked either. The tell that a place is a saw mill is if their are hundreds or thousands of trees stacked neatly in their yard.


Premium Member
Supporting Member
Blazzard's up in Kamas could probably do it? I know a few people have used them for building their cabins in the past with similar live edge, rough cut lumber exteriors.


But stuck more often.
For the most part this is finished. Might add some flashing on the edges and plug the open tube ends to keep bees out. Added the cable cross bracing on the far end and horizontal tube on the near end. Should keep the sun off me very well.
Now if I could just get a lift installed. 🙄


Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
My boys were bugging me while I was working in the shop- so I put them on a task to rebuild my work stool.
(I have some strange attachment to this thing since I've been sitting on it in my shop since 04- but it was my great uncle's and I'd guess it's at least 50 yrs old since by our best recollection he bought it for his business he started in the late 60's/early 70's).

They traced the wood. (I Cut out) the wood. Traced the foam. Cut out two layers. Spray glued them together. Cut the vinyl. (I stapled it).
Not too bad of a job for a 7 & 5 year old. Ha


.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
It's a shame you have to do that in a brand new house.

True Dat

The question of the moment is, do I pull out the rusty nails or pound them back into the subfloor?


I'm inclined to pull them but of the 3-4 I've pulled, I seem to be doing more damage to the subfloor than I'm comfortable with.
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