General Tech What did you work on Today?

[Gravy]

Well bitter-sweet day for me.

After 15 years of my personal use: I have to retire this vise (which I believe to be my great grandfather's) for the time being.
I needed a better unit because the screw on it is slightly bent (I think). I've had it apart twice but haven't quite been able to straighten it.
I'd like to fix it at a later date but at this point- time is money.
And it wasn't quite fitting my needs, I needed more protrusion and the rotation head has been on my list for a long time.




The only reason I'm posting this is I'd really love to fix the old one to use in another spot in the shop.
And I remember somebody here on RME that has restored a number of old vises (Wilton's if I remember right) and I was hoping to petition for some help! I'm happy to pay, this thing is kinda sentimental to me ?

 

[Greg]

@YROC FAB. IIRC

 

[YROC FAB.]

View attachment 122279View attachment 122280


The only reason I'm posting this is I'd really love to fix the old one to use in another spot in the shop.
And I remember somebody here on RME that has restored a number of old vises (Wilton's if I remember right) and I was hoping to petition for some help! I'm happy to pay, this thing is kinda sentimental to me ?

Neat. I like the adjustable gibs on it. Looks like some one has repaired it once before (small weld). Id help a guy out but i am also several hrs down south. I'm genuinely interested in how it works. If its just the screw thats damaged they are almost always a standard acme thread size. You could possibly buy the correct acme threaded rod and have somebody with a lathe machine/weld the new threaded rod to the end where the t handle goes.

Some of my vises>> I have one mounted to where i can almost turn in any direction and be facing a vise. I use the hell out of all of them.

This little parker was my grandfathers>


200lb holland vise found in the same barn i found my 200lb haybuden anvil


Strange spot for a crack in the back of the holland. I brazed it with my oxy torch.


reed 205


reed 204


My only import vise and also my first one. Looks like the predecessor to your new blue vise but quite a bit thicker.


Old snap on re branded wilton


1973 wilton


1944 3" wilton

 

[Gravy]

I TIG'd up that crack in mine last time I had it apart. It was only a surface crack but I didn't want it to spread.

What's happening is that it turns smoothly for the first inch and a half of opening and then it's really hard for about an inch and then smooth again out to full open. When I had it a part it looked like the end of the screw was hitting somewhere inside.

I'll message you.

 

[rholbrook]

No flames, just keepin' it OE looking. The chrome, flames and trick paint jobs are saved for the go-fast toys.

Kidding aside, it's been a great mower. I remember a few coworkers giving me crap (as well as my dad not being happy with me) when I bought this mower back in 1991 after first putting our yard in at our first home. They thought I was crazy spending $700+ dollars on a walk-behind mower. I told them that this will still be going when they are on their second or third $300 mower and I would much rather buy quality over quantity. I've tried to live my life that way with everything and have seldom been disappointed. Cry once at point of purchase and get it over.

Mike

I likes to keep it a "SLEEPER". I bet it can mow the hell out of a lawn.

 

[zmotorsports]

I had grabbed a can of red paint a couple of days ago so I could finish up the mower last night. I realize that this is probably overkill for a simple lawn mower but in all honesty it doesn’t take more time than doing a half-assed job.

After giving it a wipe down with wax & grease remover I installed a little masking paper to the area to prevent overspray.

A simple little trick called back-masking in which aids in creating a soft edge in the paint.

I forgot to get a picture of the etching primer before I moved on to the first coat of color but if you look around the perimeter you can see the grey primer peeking out from under the color.

After the second light coat of color I pulled the 3” tape back slightly. You can see the fresh green color on the tape. By pulling the tape back a little after each coat this is what creates the soft edge.

Unmasked. Paint is a "fairly" close match but not exact. Close enough from an aerosol can of Rustoleum enamel.

Ready for many more years of service.

Thanks for looking.

Mike

 

[frieed]

....... I realize that this is probably overkill for a simple lawn mower but in all honesty it doesn’t take more time than doing a half-assed job.

Not overkill, just risk-free practice for when it does count...

 

[2002maniac]

I finally got the suspension, tire, and clearance mods dialed in for my Gambler 500 Corolla. Those are 29" Maxxis Bighorns

 

[Caleb]

That's pretty cool. Are you worried about those tires holding up? That car is probably 1000lbs more than a sxs and those tires shred pretty easily as it is. Still cool though and it looks like I see two spares.

 

[Hickey]

I bought a few 275 gallon liquid totes for watering duty at our recreation property (no well, yet). I placed the first tote at the highest point on our property and ran 1" black poly line down to a couple ball valves near our 5th wheel, then covered the tote with a tarp to keep light out.


The little T-post stand is just temporary until I can get a pole in the ground.
I'm happy to report that we have enough pressure and heat to take a shower with out running the water heater or water pump.

 

[I Lean]

View attachment 122309

And your PVC ball valves are doubling as a shooting target stand. Nice.

 

[Hickey]

And your PVC ball valves are doubling as a shooting target stand. Nice.

Recycling can happen at random, here in the mountains.

 

[2002maniac]

That's pretty cool. Are you worried about those tires holding up? That car is probably 1000lbs more than a sxs and those tires shred pretty easily as it is. Still cool though and it looks like I see two spares.

It's only a 2300lb car, but yes, I'm concerned about the tires. They only have to last 500 miles, and most of that being on dirt. I think they should wear OK, but the sidewalls are pretty soft and I'm worried about de-beading. I have 3 spares if I can make room for all of them.

I took it on a little off road test run in the foothills near my house yesterday and it did surprisingly well!

 

[SLC97SR5]

Those are the same tires we have on our Teryx4's.

We've easily had 2400 gvw on them. We have over 3k miles on one set with no issues other than a puncture flat that was patched. We've run on the highway for 10 miles at a time. We run 14 psi front and rear.

Hopefully they have some decent margin built into them.
Good luck, the car looks awesome!

 

[Gravy]

I've got a teryx windshield if anyone is looking for a dirt cheap one.


Thing to consider too is that Carolla has about half the HP of most of those UTVs lol

 

[frieed]

I have a LIfetime plastic shed that has ZERO capacity for the shelves it came with so I made a free standing shelf rack (thanks for the metal @Cody )

Trying out the new Fab Squares:



After paint:


and in place:

 

[4x4_Welder]

Got to the base of the overheating in my box van. I used a thermal camera to check the radiator, and despite having good air flow from the fan, at idle the bottom of the radiator was still at 160°. Other radiators if checked would be close to ambient under these conditions. After it cooled down, I ran it with the cap off, and found full water circulation when cold.
The damn thing doesn't have a thermostat. The coolant is going through the radiator too fast to shed enough heat.

 

[Caleb]

Got to the base of the overheating in my box van. I used a thermal camera to check the radiator, and despite having good air flow from the fan, at idle the bottom of the radiator was still at 160°. Other radiators if checked would be close to ambient under these conditions. After it cooled down, I ran it with the cap off, and found full water circulation when cold.
The damn thing doesn't have a thermostat. The coolant is going through the radiator too fast to shed enough heat.

It amazes me how many people don't understand that in order to properly cool, automotive engines generally need to have a t-stat.

 

[Hickey]

Leaking wax seal + soggy subfloor + mold.

 

[rholbrook]

Just what you wanted to spend your time doing