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What do I get for the next bike?

Gravy

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Location
The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
After my last ride on Saturday it was getting hard to start. Then Monday I tried to start the bike and it wouldn't start for anything. I probably kicked it 50 times with different choke/ wiring/ gas configurations.

So I tore into it last night and the intake valves were tight enough that it was holding the valves slightly open and I could here air rushing past the intake when turning over the motor and the plug was fouled from kicking it so many times without it firing.


Intake shims were at .202mm and .197 so I took them down to .182 and .170 (I needed a .175 which I picked up today) respectively to get them into spec.
Exhaust valves where still in spec.


Also cleaned the plug, air filter and changed the oil and it started second kick!

I love it when fixes are easy.

I wonder if that had anything to do with my random stalling? I had checked the valves exactly 4 months ago and they were nearly dead on, but I'd guess I've put 65+ hours on the bike since then.

Also had to order a new brake line clamp and breather cap (somehow I lost them on a ride).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300989674370?item=300989674370&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
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Caleb

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Those aftermarket breather tubes never stay on. I think the Yamahas are different than the Hondas when it comes to valves. On the stock valves on a Honda you generally adjust once (maybe twice if you like living on the edge :D) and then replace. They start getting out of spec pretty quick once they start to go.
 
Gravy

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Location
The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Well I guess that was what was causing the random stalling because I had zero issues on Saturday all the way up to 9700 ft on Ben Lomond Peak.

Also I am really liking these tires. I'm sold on the Artrax brand. For the price; they cannot be beat.
 
Gravy

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Location
The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I picked the Artrax SE3 80/100x21 Front Tire purposefully because it's a mid terrain enduro tire. It's got a stiffer carcass than a traditional motocross tire so I don't get snakebite. I like the 45* turn on the mid lugs and felt like it gives good stability at full lock.



The Artrax SX1 Rear Tire in a 120/80x19 is an intermediate/ hard terrain tire and it is a little softer compound than the Maxxis IT's but seems to be holding up better in the rocks than the Dunlop Geomax and the Full Bore M37 I had on before. Most of the Bountiful B area has a lot of sharp, heavy and loose rock and I have had no chunking or knobs breaking off yet.



An odd observation is that the tires are stamped "DOT." While I wouldn't say that they are actually a DOT tire it might help pass you with a picky safety checker. Nor would I'd pick them for a DOT tire... but I did put 33ish miles of pavement on them last Saturday and I was impressed that they didn't step out on me like my hard Maxxis rear did on pavement.

I noticed it does run slightly narrower than a traditional 120mm width tire, so if you're on the fence between a 110mm and a 120mm (because your bike is a 250cc): go with the 120mm width and expect slightly over 110 width.

I did get after the rear with my home-made knobby knife before the last two rides but the edges weren't really worn too bad.
 
Gravy

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Location
The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Shimmed the intake valves again on Wednesday.
.182 to a .165 and .170 to a .160
I hope they stay put.
Starts good hot again.
I did put about 30-35 hours on it though after the last time.
Exhaust valves were still in spec.
 
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Cascadia

Cascadia

Undecided
Location
Orem, Utah
Isn't that like the 4th time you've done it? Doesn't it get old? Sure, you ride it a lot but if I had to do that every month I'd be pissed.
 
Gravy

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Location
The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Tonkaman said:
Only one month later and needing valve adjustment? You better save some cash for a head job soon
Click to expand...

2 months, 1 week. I actually did them on 6-2-14, but yes I was disappointed that it was getting hard to kick hot.
However, 35-40 hours is about normal (at least according to the service manual).

But if I have to do it again soon I'll have Lindsay machine recut the valve seats and install new seals. They say you can do that once before you need new valve seats installed.
I may spring for a port and polish, depending on how broke I am with the baby.

Cascadia said:
Isn't that like the 4th time you've done it? Doesn't it get old? Sure, you ride it a lot but if I had to do that every month I'd be pissed.
Click to expand...

2nd time. The first time I had the top end apart I just was checking them.
Not too bad for the 120+ hours I've put on the bike + the 40 it already had.
I've gotten pretty good at it. I helped Jon do the valves on his CRF450X the other day. I can do them in about 45 minutes.

I probably should save up and put a piston in it just for preventative maintenance at 150hrs.

I see why racers get new bikes so often. I've put a ton of hours on this bike. I sure love it though... it's just so fast and the suspension is so dailed.

The bike is literally as close to a do-it-all as I can imagine. It's such a beast.

Only Tyson and Greg might put more hours on two wheels.
 
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